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  1. Thank you both, will take a look.
  2. I'm using silicon carbide to produce crater glazes, worked great in cone 6 but no result at cone 04. Is there any way to produce low fire crater glazes? Thanks
  3. I've been working with laser decals and I'm wanting to colour them. If I add a decal to greenware and fire to bisque, then "colour" it in with underglazes or regular glazes, will the black/iron show through the underglaze or glaze once fired again? I've tried sketching onto the clay, painting the colour in first and then firing...then applying the decal but it's hard to get the colour/decal to line up perfectly. Any ideas for adding colour to pieces fired with iron toner decals would be appreciated. Thanks! x
  4. Not really, I do have slip and stains but wanting a very thin layer of colour. I can't get Speedball here in the UK.
  5. I normally use Amaco Velvets and love the matt surface they give you once fired. They're pretty expensive here in the UK, so looking for an alternative underglaze I can stock up on. I bought a load of Duncan Concepts expecting them to be matt but they were glossy...not what I wanted. Basically with the velvets I could fire them with pieces touching and they wouldn't fuse to each other...whilst the concepts do. Can anyone recommend a brand of underglazes that fire to a matt finish? I'm looking at Gare Fun Strokes and Duncan Cover Coat, and although the cover coat info states it's matt opaque, I can't find any info on the Gare Fun Strokes...matt or glossy? Thanks!
  6. Would the elements failing account for why I can fire to cone 6 on a fast speed but not on a slow speed? I've just ordered an ohm meter and am enquiring as to where I can purchase replacement elements. After doing some readings I'm thinking it's probably the elements too. I fire regularly, maybe a bisque firing once a month and cone 6 firings maybe twice a week, sometimes 3 times a week...so think I've definitely amounted to more than the average 100 firings. Is replacing the elements an easy job? I replaced the thermacouple by myself with no issues.
  7. I don't "program", I just use the built in cone programs on the sentry xpress. I use the Cone 6 program. Normally takes around 9-9½ hours on fast but lately I've noticed it's taking around 10-10½ hours, so definitely slowed down a bit. I rarely use the slow speed but last time I fired slow it completed. Last firing was only cone 05 and that went fine, the cone 6 before that completed fine too (on fast speed), it's just this slow firing that I've had trouble with. A multi-meter is an ohm reader? No, I don't have one, but will buy one. I can't really call Paragon as I'm in the UK, would be really expensive to call the USA.
  8. I have a Paragon Caldera with the Sentry Xpress controller. I put the kiln on last night on a cone 6 program with a "slow" speed. When I checked this morning I had an FTL error message and it was held at 922 degrees centigrade (1691F). I restarted the program with a "fast" speed and it's currently up to 1039c (1902f) and seems fine. Is there a reason why it would not be able to gain temp on the slow setting? The kiln is about 18 months old, I replaced the thermacouple about 4 months ago. I've been told it could be the relay or the elements need replacing, how would I know which? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
  9. Hiya, just wondering if anyone could tell me how to get the speckling/dotted effect as shown on the beads in the image attached. Ilmenite? Or something else? Thank you!
  10. I bought some stoneware glazes, not realising they're for dipping/spraying and I need them for brushing. It says on the glaze label to add some gum arabic to make them brushable. Bought gum arabic but it comes in powdered form with no instructions and I've no idea how much water to add to it to make it up. Any ideas? Thanks x
  11. I make beads and pendants myself. I use a 0.9-1.5mm nichrome wire for the rods. 0.9mm for beads and 1.5mm for pendants as they tend to be heavier. For the loops on pendants I use a 0.5mm nichrome wire. I also use a metal bead rack. I got mine from Bath Potters in the UK, not sure if they deliver to Australia, maybe email them?
  12. I often use earthenware glazes on a stoneware body...sometimes it crazes, sometimes not...I happen to love the crackle effect though, but if you're glazing items that need to be food safe, it's not so good.
  13. You can use a crackle glaze over underglaze, but as you have a stoneware crackle glaze, you might lose some colour from your underglazes unless they specifically fire to high temps. I can fire my underglazes to stoneware temps but the colours often fade, still nice colours, just not what you're expecting.
  14. I used a buff stoneware, will try them on white next with no hold. Have attached some pics... The leaf (img_4100.jpg) is supposed to be the lime/blue, img_4098 is the textured cobalt and img_4121 is the cinnamon/wheat colour... As you can see, completely different. Thanks for the info, didn't realise the hold would increase the temps so much.
  15. Hiya, just looking for a bit of info really... I bought some stoneware spectrum glazes last week and whilst they've fired lovely, they're not the colours expected at all. For example, I bought the Lagoon glaze, which is blue and lime green speckled on their example. I fired according to their instructions and mine has come out as a medium brown with very pale blue highlights. Not a trace of lime green to be found, certainly didn't expect any brown. Another one was the "Textured Cobalt"...not a trace of cobalt or the mustard yellow to be found...instead I got a buff colour with seafoam (very pale green/blue). And another...the Cinnamon Ripple...no trace of white or the cinnamon/wheat colour...instead I have a yellow/orange straw colour base with bits of pink on it. I fired to cone 5 with a 30 minute hold, medium speed, with kiln lid open a half inch for the first two hours of firing. 11 hours total firing. I have a Paragon Caldera with Sentry Xpress 4 controller. Any idea where I've gone wrong?
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