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Everything posted by Marge

  1. Min I will try this today!! Thanks so much for helping!--- Margie
  2. I use white stoneware and fire to cone 6. I've thrown away my finished pieces where the green shows through my glossy white. I will finish a piece with the green flecks on it and try with a different glaze. It's just strange that the pieces feel hard and can be peeled off of the clay that is pugged. Thanks!
  3. I've been using my new Peter Pugger VPM 9 for a few months now. The clay that first extrudes from my pug mill always has green particles on it. It's obviously left from the cap when I take it off of the clay as it extrudes. I have contacted the company who said it may be a reaction from the clay I'm using as it comes into contact with the cap and to stick that clay back in the pug mill. The clay with any green on it does not burn off but stays green on my pots. It's almost solid pieces of green that I can pull off of the clay. Has anyone had this issue, or have any advice? Thanks!! --- Marg
  4. Thanks for the input!! I'm very excited to say I just purchased the VPM 9. I've been thinking about this purchase for a long time and everyone's words of wisdom helped me finally follow through! Margie
  5. I'm looking into purchasing a pugger. I am trying to ease my aching wrists and elbow and would like to lessen wedging. (Reusing my scraps would be an added bonus.) Does anyone have any words of wisdom regarding the Peter Pugger VPM 7 vs 9? I realize that the 9 has a larger capacity, but is it worth saving the $ and just feeding clay into the hopper more often? I don't throw over 7lbs at a time. I always use the same clay and wouldn't have to clean it out often (if ever?) Any advice would be helpful! Thanks a bunch! Margie
  6. Oops yes the 10 mason stain is the last ingredient in the grey recipe. Supposed to be under the silica. Thanks!
  7. Thanks everyone for your helpful thoughts. The picture is the finished product... not pre-firing. I have a new load going in tomorrow which I dipped the second layer immediately after the first. @neilestrick here are the 2 recipes... please let me know if anything jumps out at you. Thanks again!!!! White Grey 18 Gerstley Borate 24 Neph Sy 27 Neph Sy 11 Dolomite 12 EPK
  8. I will give all of your ideas a try! My entire pot is dipped in a glossy white glaze and the lip is dipped in a different base glaze with a mason stain. Grey is such a difficult color to produce and unfortunately my best seller. Thanks again
  9. Thanks Min... I think (unfortunately) the 2 glazes just don't like each other. Although it fires beautifully with a different mason stain (2%) less. Could 2 different mason stains react differently on the pot... or do you suggest trying 8% of the "troublesome" stain vs 10% in my 5 gallon pail? Does that make any sense?
  10. Hi there... I've been firing my pots to cone 6 with an 008 hold on my Skutt kiln for years. I've introduced a new glaze combo to my repertoire a few months ago. I dip the entire pot in my white glaze, then dip the lip in my grey glaze. Approx 50% of the time the grey glaze slips off of the pot in areas. I dip the second layer after the first layer is dry to the touch (a few hours). Some of the pots turn out fine and some with "slipping" problems in the same load. The grey recipe contains: Neph Sy, Dolomite, Gerstley Borate, Whiting, Zinc oxide, EPK, Flint, and Mason stain Could it
  11. Thank you so much. I have a show Wednesday night. I am not attached to the pots that are going in my last glaze firing, but would you suggest trying less of a hold? Right now I have an eight minute hold. I just dipped the second layer while the first layer was still slightly wet.
  12. No, I will with my next glaze firing. If it’s hitting the correct temp 2215 degrees, could it still be incorrect.? Would that mean the my Skutt readout would be incorrect? Thx!
  13. I have used a (grey) glaze for awhile and the last 2 firings (cone 6) it has dripped off of my pottery. It is the overlapped layer on the lip of my pots. The first layer dried overnight prior to dipping in the second (grey) layer to the lip. I make my own glazes and they have always worked well for me. The temp and amt of hours that my kiln is firing has always been approx the same. Perhaps an extra 5 minutes to hit the temp lately. I hate to switch the elements if I don't have to. One other glaze has recently slipped off and pooled on my kiln shelves as well. (That situation was my first co
  14. I'm using a Gleico clay trap under my sink in my studio. Is there a more substantial one that you recommend? Thanks!
  15. Min... Thanks so much for your terrific pictures! They were SO helpful! I've attached my first attempt and can't wait to try it again! Margie
  16. Thanks Min! Can you send the pics in this string of posts so I will find it? Also, how would I find Lee's method? Thanks again!
  17. I've seen many one piece chip and dip bowls online that look like you slice the clay after the bowl is formed to then make the dip part. It's been referred to as a swirl chip and dip. Does anyone know how to make this... or has seen a tutorial online?? Thanks!! Margie
  18. Hi there! I am about to make a Majolica Cone 6 glaze that calls for Frit 3124. Can I substitute with Frit 3134 which I have already? I'm only making 100g for a test tile so don't mind if it doesn't work... Thanks a bunch!!! So happy to be back "potting" after a little hiatus!
  19. I've searched online, but can't seem to get a straight answer on how to fettle. Specifically, I'm trying to take off some of the glaze that may be too thick in areas. I've been using my fingers to smooth out the drips. Also, do you need to smooth out every little pinhole of dry glaze before I glaze fire? I typically dip in one color, then dip in a different color. Sometime little "pinholes" pop up... probably where it's too thick. Thanks everyone... I love the help!!
  20. I'm interested in purchasing a grinder for the bottom of my pots. Do I get a side grinder, or is there something out there that lies flat that I can just hold my pot over? I'd like to make the bottom very smooth so they don't scratch a glass table. Thanks for any advice... Happy Thanksgiving!
  21. I've been glaze firing to cone 6 with a 17 minute hold at the highest temp. I have been turning of the vent (of my Skutt with KilnMaster) after the 17 min hold. Should I leave the vent on until it cools down to 100 degrees? I was thinking that by turning of the vent it would slow down the cooling. I like my results, but it takes SO long to cool down with out the vent on. Thanks for your help!! Margie
  22. Thanks to everyone for your help on my pinholes in my pottery. I've vacuumed my kiln and rinsed by bisqueware. I have a new load being fired tomorrow, we will see if that makes a difference. I bisque to cone 04, and fire to cone 6. With my 17 min hold, my cone 7 bends halfway down. Its the same batch of glaze that I've been using all along. It used to only pinhole sometimes, now that specific glaze pinholes consistently. Perhaps I should make alot more... so I can dip quickly vs. pour over my pots. Perhaps I will get a thinner application that way. Thanks!!
  23. One of my favorite cone 7 glazes is consistently getting pinholes. I hold for 17 min at the highest temp. I tried a little longer and shorter hold, but that doesn't make a difference. I've tried to apply a very thin coat, but still pinholes. Also, I turn off the vent after it hits the final temp... to slow down cooling. Does that do anything, or am I just wasting time waiting to turn off the vent? I use a Skutt Kilnmaster without any special schedule other than the the hold. I would LOVE and words of wisdom!! Thanks a bunch!!------- Margie
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