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Val

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    Namibia and Denver

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  1. So I sculpt a lot of face planters and like to use Amaco velvet beige as the base skin tone. I started having the underglaze develop small bubbles at cone 5 ( I applied at greenware & I do not apply any clear glaze over the underglaze) I spoke to tech. support at Amaco and they said most likely it was old and the gum had deteriorated. I mixed up some cmc gum and began adding gradually to no effect. Finally I added more than 1/4 cup to the pint. I got 1 good firing, then the problem was back. I am willing to throw out the rest of what I have and start over but now I am worried I will buy new and it's been on a shelf somewhere and already be old. So 2 questions 1. If I buy new how can I be sure it's not already old, and # 2. any ideas for acrylic washes or oil paint washes as a matt finish for my faces ?
  2. Thanks everyone.......I've got my work cut out for me now with testing
  3. Oh and macro crystalline Junkie, Not bad, a bit too green but very close......... thanks
  4. Hi Marcia and " Old Lady", First, Old lady ( that seems a little disrespectful but could not find your name ) do you have a recipe for the glaze in your photo? and Marcia, is the glaze on your vase photo the glaze in the recipe you posted ? Thank you so much for all the help ! Val
  5. I've been hunting for a cone 5/6 or even a cone 06 turquoise that is fairly opaque, satin or shiny ,and food safe. Everything I have found is either transparent, or too green, or not food safe etc. Recipe or ready made is fine The photo shown is PERFECT, but a secret. Thanks ! Val
  6. I am still curious about why the clear glaze is a bit milky only on Amaco velvet red and not other colors
  7. OOPS I guess I assumed it was the rating of the clear top coat that mattered........Thanks for the heads up Val
  8. To achieve the colors and detail I want in my non functional work I usually use earthenware clay, BUT for mugs I feel like I need to use 5/6 stoneware so that they are durable. With stoneware,I paint with underglaze on greenware then bisque at 06 , and then apply clear glaze and fire to cone 5. Amaco velvet bright red is giving me fits ! I am using Amaco Sahara H-9 clear dipping glaze. All of the colors are fine except red which is going milky. I know milky usually means glaze is too thick, but some mug handles were a bit on the dry side after firing which tells me the glaze was not thick enough or I did not submerge long enough. After the dryish handles I held in the glaze for count of 3 instead of count of 2 and everything was perfect except red. I'm about to say to hell with stoneware, or at least red underglaze..........but I love red here are some photos........it was hard to get a great picture so I hope you can see what I mean.
  9. You did not say if you are using eathenware or stoneware? For earthenware Stroke and Coat by Mayco does exactly what you want , but at higher temperatures it will run together. For stoneware I have to use underglazes with clear on top to achieve detail
  10. Not sure if this question should be here or in glaze chemistry. I usually use Amaco Velvets on my stoneware greenware, then bisque and glaze fire. When there are small touch ups needed after bisque, I can usually do the touch up and go ahead with glaze, however if the touch up is large, such as when a large space needs a whole new coat of u.g., then I usually re bisque because the glaze absorbs different;y on the new application. Recently I had a whole kiln load to touch up so I did a hardening on after bisque but before glaze firing at cone 022. However I forgot to take out the electric kiln's bungs. Many colors went VERY UGLY ! I am not sure if the reason is oxygen starvation of just not reaching a mature temperature?? Thanks Val
  11. It's not that I want to reproduce that particular example or motif. drmyrtle.......(I actually want to make some stylized flowers. ) and not that I want machine perfect lines.......maybe I just need to practice I looked up back wax resist and it's pretty darn expensive, so maybe I will try the mason stain idea with the wax ai have on hand. Thanks to all who have replied and given me new ideas.
  12. Thank you bciskepottery ! that's it Cueda seca https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cuerda_seca
  13. I've been noticing this glazing technique in some pottery on Pinterest ,( both modern and antique pieces ) and wondered what it was called. It seems that the lines must be done with a resist, so I tried some wax in a squeeze bottle but could not get a consistent line width. Anybody know about this technique?
  14. Yea Denice ! It's so nice to reclaim lost knowledge ! thanks for sharing ! I would love to see photos of your life size work......what the heck do you fire the works in ? I
  15. Love your work Chris Campbell ! I will experiment to see if the soda ash mix also works on earthenware. Thanks everyone for your advice !
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