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About Leslie

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    Florida Panhandle
  1. You may want to also look into the Amaco "Stroke and Coat" glazes. I used them for children's classes. Their advantages are that they are somewhat WYSIWYG - except the colors are more vibrant after firing. Also, the colors DO mix with pretty close to expected results. Third, the glazes don't "move", eliminating glaze runoff during firing of irregularly applied glaze. Fourth, they can be used in a painterly fashion - layering etc. like paints. (This is just easier for some people.) They come containers that have lids with small dispenser holes (squeeze type) so glazes can be given out in small amounts - even a drop or two - eliminating waste. (We use small plastic cups like they use for condiments in restaurants - cheap and reuseable. Lastly, I found out that the Stroke and Coat glazes may be applied to green ware, eliminating the glaze fire. I inquired and the Teacher's Choice glazes should NOT be applied to green ware. These glazes are perfect for kids classes, and surprisingly, some of my adult students enjoy using them as well.
  2. Thanks, Sandy. I'll check with my clay supplier about the barium. I, too, fired the next batch (already drying as the first group with scumming was discovered) to a higher temp. - cone 1-2. My experience is the same - deeper color and no problem with the scumming. I'd like to think I can trust my supplier when this problem is pretty well known and easily remedied. That's the reason I thought I'd suspect my own water supply first. However, I think you're right and I should check with the supplier. Thank you, and good luck to you too.
  3. There is nothing that will remove the scumming after the firing. I have smoked fire the pieces to cover-up the scumming and discovered that the smoke firing enhanced the over all look. Give it a try. Thanks, Marjorie. I did extensive research online. I was able to find some information about cleaning scum from (architectural) bricks. A mild acid was suggested. My pieces had a very heavy deposit of scum. I used vinegar - straight - and a scrubby, and a lot of elbow grease. It definitely cut down on the amount of scum visible on the surface. I coated the pieces with an oxide wash and refired. Also read about lightly oiling the finished work, but didn't need to do that. The finished pieces have been sitting almost a month now, and so far look good. I will be much more careful about the water I use in the building process. I don't think that the problem is with the clay, as I purchase commercially prepared clay (and hope I can trust it!). I will assume it's my water supply - which has changed recently - and I will use distilled water in the future. I will also keep your suggestion in mind. - Leslie
  4. Does anyone have a suggestion for removing - or at least mitigating - scum on fired terracotta sculpture? I usually only use an oxide wash and then refire, using little or no glaze. I have two pieces that I've just bisqued, and they seem to have much more scumming than I've seen before. I've searched the web, but can only find suggestions for preventing it happening. But its already happened and I'd like to salvage the pieces.
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