Cherry

Lee, did you also glaze your pot? In the pictures on this thread, it looks like the copper actually melted into the glazes.

I want a coloring book on my computer that uses my own images for the pictures, and a palette of underglazes for the colors.

Bill's final sentence is what I'm aiming for. I realize the differences that various clays and firings have on the end result and I'm not looking for a perfect replication of a color. I too, have spent years on glaze testing and color theory. I'm not trying to invalidate the years of work that potters have done, just move my own in a different direction. I've made a chart of the underglazes I have. I also have a lot of colored pencils. I match the nearest pencil I have to the underglaze, then color in the printed design to see how the colors work together. If they don't, I start over. Colored pencils don't erase well. I'm was hoping to ease the process of designing using an image manipulation program. I've learned that Microsoft's 3D Paint will identify the RBGs from my chart, but won't save a palette of more than 18 colors. Which is more than enough. I'm also, finally, taking the time to watch GIMP tutorials.

RBG refers to the proportion of red, blue and green that are combined to create a color. They're used mainly on computer monitors and the web, but like the effects of different clays on the same glaze, differently calibrated monitors can give different hues, depending on how they are calibrated. It still gives a level of consistency in the appearance of an image, regardless of the maker of your monitor or your program.

Is there a source of RBG values of commercial underglazes? I found one site but it only had the Amaco Velvets. I'm thinking that if I had program with these, I could scan a design into the computer and use "bucket fill" to see how the colors work together.

I also use food coloring in liquid wax. Interestingly, red food coloring, which makes the wax pink, turns turquoise a few days after putting on bisque ware, but stays pink in the bottle. Wilson paste colors.

We replaced the thermocouple, my husband made sure all the connections were tight and I fired it last night. It still was over, but if finished! I'll take that, and work on calibrating it next. Thanks for all the help. Cherry

This is a link to the model I have. I think mine is from the late nineties. I bought it from someone in Baltimore about 10 years ago. https://www.paragonweb.com/TNF243_7961111G00.cfm When we checked the amperage last week, the readings were about 18, 12,12, 12, and 18, top to bottom. Those were new as of August 2018. Readings then were about 21, 13, 12, 12,12, and 20. I've ordered a new thermocouple, it'll be here tomorrow or Wednesday. Here is a picture of the wiring. I have my first sale in 14 years in less than 2 weeks!

Will post a photo of the wiring after it has cooled. Cherry

I was wrong. It was relays we replaced. And it shut off at slow speed too.

It had the old Touch n Fire DTC 800 Controller. The Sentry manual suggested firing with a slow speed in order to avoid that FTL message, so that is running now and it's almost to 2000 degrees. This is the third time this load has been to 2000 degrees. Cherry

I have a Paragon SNF 243 . In the last 1 1/2 year, we have replaced the elements, thermocouple, and this week, the controller and the switches. It has been firing about 2 cones above what I program it for, though with a cone higher at the top. Since installing the Sentry 3 controller, I have fired it 4 times. On three of those, it has shut down around 2000 degrees, taking 12- 14 hours to get there. The error code it gives is FTL. The only completed firing was with the kiln empty but for test cones, to cone 4 and that took 9 hours on a fast setting! The others were also to cone 4 but at a medium speed. We tested the amperage, all within limits. Any suggestions? Cherry Knobloch Chesapeake, Va

I learned about paper clay from Jerry in about 2003 but stopped using insulation because I was finding black specks from it in my clay. And they didn't burn out and the discoloration seeped into the glaze. I've been using cotton for years but I just get it at Michael's. I store small amounts in the freezer and that seems to work as well as the fresh made stuff.