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Alina Albu

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  1. This is key- depending on what type of an effect you want from your glaze. A glaze that yields a complex, matte or crystalline surface with a slow cool-down can be translucent or even transparent if the kiln is just switched off at its peak. Either may be fine... but be aware of what you want. Hi Kohaku, At the moment I am after glossy glazes, but will bear that in mind when trying something different. Like your signature line. And "All that glitters is not gold". (no, it´s my glossy glaze! hehe)
  2. Hi Mark, I am after glossy glazes anyway, don´t do any matte or crystalline. At least not for now. My issue was trying to get a slow cooling period down to 800ºC, and that was not possible on my kiln as it only has 4 phases, of which the first three were taken with the ramping up and soaking. I have to fire overnight and I am not always there to fiddle with the controls. So, what I am going to do from now on, I´ll try and get to top temp in one phase, soak in phase two, cool slowly to 800ºC in phase three, and that gives me another phase for cooling off to the end. Yep, that might work. Thanks Alina
  3. Hi mregecko Oxide. I am not familiar with cones, I fire at 1255ºC with a 20 min soak and it works beautifully for me. Tried the glazesimulator, don't agree with above cone ten - is there anything above cone ten?! This is a glaze that has been used by other potters I know for this range of temp. Sometimes these things are too clever for their own good.(:-) Have a great weekend!
  4. Aaaaah, now that makes sense - Thank you Marcia. I must say I did not think that about Bentonite. We live and learn. Jim and TJR - I have used the glaze before, it was at another potter's studio, she dictated the recipe to me (hence my thinking I made a mistake). It is a nice kind of sky blue glaze, glossy, I like it on all bodies ~but will have to test it on my new black clay. However, it does tend to "spit" a teeny little bit, not quite sure why. My guess is that it happened when I laid it on a bit thick. Anyway, thanks again. Problem solved. Alina
  5. This is great, thanks everybody! I guess I'll go for it. Marcia, I will only have a few hours to let the glaze dry. Hope that will be enough.
  6. Hello folks I am interested in reducing the length of glaze firing for my pots. I was told, or rather, I always assumed, that you need to fire slowly to about 600ºC, then get up to temperature asap. I fire at 1255ºC, electric. (sorry not familiar with cone systems). I have come across pottery bloggers who claim the need to fire slowly is a myth. After all, the industry fires tiles in 45 minutes from crude. And once, I had some pieces of porcelain fired by a kiln technician who set up the program to finish in 6 hours! and it worked. I use an electric kiln and don't want to damage it by doing crazy firings. Can I really do a firing cycle for porcelain in 6 hours? Pieces previously bisqued. Any suggestions, much appreciated, Alina
  7. Hello there I have this handwritten glaze recipe where the ingredients are correct, but the percentages don't seem to add up to 100 for the main body. It is possible i made a mistake when I jotted them down. I don't have time to test, can anyone suggest what I could do to fix it?Does it need fixing or is it possible it's ok the way it is? Shall I use less dolomite?Like 12%? Sodium Feldspar 85% Dolomite 15% Bentonite 3% Add: Rutile 6% Cobalt 0.4& Any help, much appreciated Alina
  8. Thank you, folks. Back to testing, and I´ll see what comes out. Alina
  9. Dear potters, Help, please: I need a recipe for a (creamy) white glossy glaze. All I seem to come accross in the books I have is, at best, satin, or dry, and not glossy. I work in stoneware and porcelain (oxidation, anything between 1240ºC - 1300ºC, or 2264ºF - 2372ºF, (not that familiar with cones - cone 6, minimum?). I am based in Europe, so I can't have certain ingredients (US Ferro frits, for instance). I can buy locally the usual culprits: kaolin, feldspars, dolomite, ball clay, nepheline syenite, whiting, silica, quartz, oxides, that sort of thing. Anyone care to share?(:-) It would be very much appreciated. Alina Albu
  10. Thank you all. I guess stamp it is, and 'll have to be very careful at filling the grooves - last time I made a bit of a mess. Alina
  11. I would like to make a wall plaque in porcelain with a quote on in. Is there some obvious, simple way to write on porcelain? I have considered alphabet spaghetti, but can´t see how I´m going to get the "ink" in the grooves without smearing it everywhere else. I lam looking for "printing" on clay that is crisp and clear. Any suggestions - much appreciated. Alina
  12. And I´m off to my studio now to see if I can knock up a few of these... http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-us-canada-21857435 Sigh.
  13. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-york-north-yorkshire-21807775#
  14. These shelving units are black steel with pressed board shelves. They are used for storage. The units dimensions are 36" wide, 12" deep and 60" tall. The boxed unit weighed 35 pounds; from Home Depot. Thank you Lucille. I think I know the type. I was hoping it was some sort of wood shelving you can put up without tools and fretting. Somehow, I don´t think they have been invented. Yet.
  15. Lucille - thanks for the explanation - I had no idea you can do that! By the way, what do your boltless shelves look like? I am trying to devise something simple and easy to take around to fairs. Much appreciated. I know this is not what this feed is about(:-)
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