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Ann E. V.

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Everything posted by Ann E. V.

  1. ok, so now it's 3 years after this thread started and I'm struggling with the same problem....without all the computer knowledge. I have an excel spreadsheet with my inventory listed by item number with prices, sold to and where columns, and all other basic information to keep track of my pottery. I can import a picture for each individually numbered item but it takes forever to resize it and then it's so small I can't identify it on the computer screen. Is there some way to resize the excel spreadsheet so I can recognize the photo or import it more easily????? I have investigated ArtSala, eArtist, My Art Collection, Inventory Organizer Deluxe and Artist Butler software programs but each is designed for more sophisticated use than I require. I'm looking for simple! Please help if you have any useful comments or information. Many thanks, Ann E. V.
  2. I have an inventory of all my work in an excel program on the computer. It saves lots of time, when work is moved from one gallery to another, so I know where each piece is until (and even after it's sold. I would like to include a picture of each piece as a part of this inventory identification so that the person who updates my website could easily add or substract each item as it is sold or created. Does anyone know of a practical way to accomplish this?
  3. is sodium silicate supposed to be dry crystals or liquid when added to formulas?? mine came in a pint container with small amount of liquid at the top and a rock hard crystalline pack underneath. No amount of stirring, scraping or shaking will change this consistancy. When a recipe calls for sodium silicate do I pour off and measure the liquid at the top or chip out the solid stuff at the bottom??
  4. I use scrap clay that I've thrown into a 5 gallon bucket and covered with water. When the bucket is about half full, I pour off the clear water at the top, and blend the clay with my drill which has a paint mixer-type blade on it. It makes a thick creamy smooth slip. In a second 5 gallon bucket, I put 1 roll of toilet paper without the center cardboard tube. I add about 3 gallons of warm/hot water and use the same drilll with mixing blade to blend the paper into the water. It takes about 5 minutes as the toilet paper is engineered to biodegrade easily. I pour this pulpy mixture into a large collander lined with cheesecloth or other coarsely woven cloth. This needs to be done over a 3rd 5 gallon bucket or a sink with a good strainer over the drain to catch extra pulp. Lightly squeeze the pulp and add it to the bucket of blended slip. I usually repeat the toilet paper pulping step to get about 30% paper ratio to the clay. The paper pulp and clay then need to be blended with the same drill until thoroughly mixed. It can be used this way as joining slip or as paper-mache in a bisque mold. It can be spread on a drying surface and wedged into soft clay for modeling and hand building. It can be thoroughly dried and stored as flat sheets for later use. Because the wet paper clay ferments in about a week and smells really bad, it needs to be stored in the dry form. It can be reconstituted by soaking overnight in warm water and re-blending. The dried sheets can be scored and broken into 'building strips' and joined with paper clay slip to build anything up to the size of your kiln. When firing the clay, I do a very slow bisque fire with a 1 to 2 hour soak at about 500 degrees to fully burn out the paper. I've read that cellulose fiber has a fire retardant added to it that gives off noxious fumes in the kiln. Always interested in hearing other methods so I'll be glad to check out this forum!
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  6. Anthony- Oops I'm new to this format! I love your sculptures, especially the organic 'sea anenome' and cup-like fungus shapes. keep up the good work....I'm inspired! Ann E. V.
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