Material To Make Ceramic Or Porcelain Components
Posted 28 August 2013 - 09:38 PM
Isint 365 degrees or close to it the magic number.
Secondly due to the nature of the ceramics we are talking about a heating wire just around the outside of form will not be efficient. The ceramic will not conduct heat . Most of the formulas of clay mentioned are not very good conductors of heat. And more than likely have a more insulation effect. Like porcelain in spark plugs.
You prolly can get away without glazing item. You don't really need porcelain, most any clean clay fired to maturity will work. I'd definitely stay away from clay bodies with carcinogens, and or other toxic stuff.
The only way this item will work for,what I think you're going to use is to heat entire ceramic piece to slightly above target temp. The ceramic piece will become source to vaporize "the volatiles"
I can appreciate your,thinking outside of the box, but there are easier solutions.
Using pre existing "devices". Be it ceramic glass, or other....use a heat gun with dimmer switch, use a digital infra red thermometer and dimmer to calibrate heat gun to target temperature. With this you can use pre existing "device" to vaporize your "volatiles" and possibly use the ceramic part as a "grate"
Maybe put down the bag of Doritos, step,back and re asses project.
Ok,back to ceramics, If you look at fire bricks some retain heat, some will insulate. See hard brick vs I.F.B. . Knowledge here will help decide what material/clay to choose if you stick with original concept.
The beige is blinding!!!!!!
The middle of the road is boring
The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination.
Posted 29 August 2013 - 06:43 AM
I already have one device I made, but it didn´t work very well. So now, a few years later, I thought I would try another approach.
Anyway, the main point of this exercise is not really the finished product, but rather wanting to try something new, something not entierly easy. My dayjob is designing electronics, but often I just want to play with some new stuff, and this guy http://www.youtube.c...KWo43tFcCkFvydw has been a great inspiration in trying weird and complex projects.
Posted 01 September 2013 - 11:58 AM
I was doing some more research, and I found out that if I want to have better thermal conductivity I should use alumina cramic. Does any one have any working recipe? I found out that I should have something around 95% Al2O3 and then some SiO2 and MgO, but I am not too sure about what amounts or if I will need anything else to make the clay.
Posted 01 September 2013 - 01:36 PM
There is no plasticity in the things you mentioned. They would have to be pressed into a form and the bonding temp will likely be very high.
just guessing though
Posted 01 September 2013 - 02:23 PM
For what it is worth, I made a set of ceramic terminal blocks from cone 6 50/50 mix ( its what I had available) from Laguna clay. They were for the 50 amp circuits coming from my electrical box to my kiln. The work fine and would have no problem with any reasonable heat you would expose wiring to.
Posted 01 September 2013 - 02:55 PM
From what I´ve read I should add ball or plastic kaolin to make the clay plastic. Is that right?
Also, what should I use as a binder?
Posted 01 September 2013 - 03:58 PM
It looks like you have 2 issues. First ceramics are insulators not conductors .. If you want the heating element to conduct heat through a material as to vaporize the moisture then you need to find a conductive material like metal or a way to have thinner walled ceramics.
I think some more research is needed because we here on the forum don't have the background you need, we're just guessing
Posted 01 September 2013 - 05:40 PM
It seems that the only way now is to try it and see what happens. I already have a propane trorch and a gas bottle, so I will wait for the thermometer to come and will build a kiln similar to this
Posted 02 September 2013 - 04:02 AM
I don´t see anything that would be blatantly unsafe, what did you have in mind?
Posted 02 September 2013 - 10:14 AM
Why don't you try firing it with charcoal in your barbeque grill? With a good hot fire and the piece in the middle, you should be able to get bisque temperature.
Posted 02 September 2013 - 11:45 AM
first of all, thanks for the great post
You see, I know I can go to some local pottery course or shop or something and ask them to fire it for me. But here the finished product is not really what I am after, it is more of a byproduct. The path of learning and trying new stuff on my own is far more important for me. Also, I understand the risks involved here, especially the placement, ventilation and general safety when handling propane, I am not new to doing dangerous processes. But on the other side, if I can get to make a first test fire in late november, it will be fast. In the mean time, I will be researching whatever I can get my hands on, getting some base materials and preparing some test samples to try it out.
Now for the kiln, you say you need 24+ hours to fire your products, is it beacuse the kiln takes so long to heat up, or just because the clay needs that much time to be fired properly? Are there some phases to this process and some recommended time the pottery should be there?
I know that there are many variables I don´t even know about, and a lot of other that I think I know what they are. But it seems that maybe a few more weeks and I will be more or less prepared for the possible outcomes.
Posted 03 September 2013 - 12:39 PM
Another interesting kind of kiln I found on the interwebs is this http://www.clay-king...u_kiln_kit.html
Imagine I would make it about 1/3 size, it seems to me that the mineral blanket would be much better for handling than a bunch of bricks, and the thermal capacity will be much lower so I think it would be safe to handle soon after turning the gas off. I don´t know, I might turn this into electrical kiln after all, I just need to find a suitable heater wire for this. What power output do you think I would need? I guess something around 2kW if the kiln is properly isolated.
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