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VladCruceanu

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Everything posted by VladCruceanu

  1. As I am limited in building big pots because of the kiln size, I am considering to use frost resistant concrete for the larger objects. Is there a concrete that will act like clay? The internet is full of articles regarding ShapeCrete but it is not shipped to Europe and it doesn't seem to be like clay. How is this made out of concrete? WIth an armature mesh?
  2. I am looking to build rectangular pots, the wheel is not helping me. I will use coils to build it but I need the flat, even base.
  3. When using coils, the bottom is not supposed to be made from a slab? How can I make a 100 cm x 70 cm even bottom other than from a slab? What do you mean by slab strips? Great idea, thanks!
  4. I want to build a large pot in 2 ways: 1. By joining large slabs. I cut the bottom and the walls from slabs and then I join the pieces. 2. Creating the bottom from a large slab and them using the coil method. In both ways I need to roll large slabs and I cannot find the right way. 10 kg of clay are very hard to roll evenly and are not enough for a 100 cm x 70 cm slab. Joining 2 large slabs seems impossible. How would I move them, push together and join? Starting with 10 kg of clay and rolling evenly will stress the clay a lot and the rolling pin is very long to cover 70 cm and very hard to press. How are people building large or very large pots? All of them have slab rollers or how they are doing it?
  5. For the moment I don’t have a slab roller and I need to roll 2 large clay slabs - 70 cm x 50 cm and 100 cm x 70 cm. My clay comes in 10 kg packages. Tried to roll a 70 cm x 50 cm clay slab from 10 kg and I had 2 issues: 1. Coudn’t did it evenly. 2. In the end I had a small area. How would an experienced potter do it without a slab roller machine? Is it doable?
  6. If I am having enough clay in the studio, I will try both solutions this Sunday. It is a pleasure to get your help. Thank you!
  7. I tried once to do it, a couple of days ago, and the part that supports the straight slab collapsed during drying. This is something that I will probably solve. Challenges: 1. Shaping the bottom part I have used a slab over towels and worked decently. The bad part is that this way I cannot add the support part of the straight slab. Or maybe if I calculate everything perfectly, I can add it from this stage. 2. Drying I made two separate slabs - the bottom and the straight part, same thickness, but quite thick, 2 cm I think. The bottom dried a bit faster than the straight part. I have added the support part of the straight slab 3. Connecting parts I have connected the 2 parts using fresh clay, couldn't score and slip because of the weird connections parts. I am used to connecting straight parts. After a couple of days, the connections seem to resist but the edges loosened and lifted a little. I don't know what would happen if fired. 4. Water holes when being directly on the ground Bonsai pots have feet so water will have a way to escape the pot. The slab is mandatory to have water holes and holes for wiring the trees. Deciding where the holes will be located and how water will escape is tricky. How would an experienced potter approach this project? Thank you.
  8. In the following months I will order a Bailey Bailey DRD II Slab Roller With 51" Table. It's a safe investment that will also help me build big slabs for big pots.
  9. I don’t know which type is this one, probably one roller. Maybe somebody can answer this question. Usually, slab rollers cost a lot more, probably this one is reflecting its low price. A new is around 500 euro. The company which is producing this equipment cannot be found on the internet and the product description is extremely basic. I have seen the selling announce and the low price made me checked it. I am looking to buy a slab roller in 2019, so I started to search and find out more about different equipments. Thank you both for the replies.
  10. I can buy this used slab roller cheap - around 250 euro, it would be my first such equipment, and I need to know if it's worth it. A new identical one costs around 500 euro. On this link you can see several pics of the equipment: https://www.olx.ro/oferta/calandru-pentru-intinderea-masei-ceramice-IDbHt8G.html What do you think? What should I check? I searched for the company on the internet and I cannot find it, pretty weird.
  11. Most people say to slowly and evenly dry the work, so no cracks will appear. I am new into ceramics and I find it interesting that you discuss about quickly drying the objects. I am making bonsai pots and if I am not careful when drying , I am having cracks. What do you think about the drying cabinets that can be found on ceramic shops? Is it worth buying one? The heat can be modified but will the clay objects dry evenly, fast, and without cracks? Thank you.
  12. I have used a 120 mesh and now it works excellent. Thank you all for your help.
  13. Many thanks for your help. I will sieve it, hopefully, I have the right mesh screen in my house.
  14. First you need to know that this is my first time using a slip trailer. Please find attached the model that I have. The issue is that the slip is not flowing well or even not at all, especially with the smallest heads. One head is blocked. I am using a mixer to make the slip out of water and clay. If I am going for very thin slip, it flows but it is a bad mix, not slip, it is water. I used 2 types of clay, both with grog, larger and smaller particles. What am I doing wrong?
  15. So I will get an ink based on oil. Should I use an inkjet printer? Other mistakes?
  16. I have used the following tools: - Roller - Arabic Gum Liquid - Indian Ink - Tried two pictures: 1. Printed in color by a laser Xerox. 2. Copied black and white by another Xerox machine. Made everything as in the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUNH6KvYGnk Tried 2 times with both pictures on soft leather hard clay and nothing transferred. Please help me understand what I am doing wrong.
  17. Thank you all for joining this discussion and sharing your opinions, it’s very helpful. I will probably buy the electric kiln. I am also considering a wood kiln but it is a pretty complicated project and much more expensive. Will see.
  18. Where did you bought the bonsai pot mould from? Thank you all for your help.
  19. Something like this you mean? How did the guy made that 2-3 parts box? What material is that?
  20. Both 1-phase and 3-phase kiln has the same top temperature and the exact same dimensions. Probably the 1-phase will heat up more slowly? Are there any disavantages if I go for the 1-phase? I am asking because I have heard rumors but not from ceramists. My home permits the 3-phase as the house has the connection but from the ground floor to the 2nd floor, is very hard for an electrician to get the cables for a 3-phase kiln without making holes everywhere. The 3-phase cables will not have room in the existing pipes that are in the walls, made for actual cables.
  21. Many thanks all for the replies. @Rae Reich Great ideas, cheers.
  22. I am looking to buy my first electric kiln and I need to know from your experience if 1-phase kilns are good. This is the kiln: Nabertherm Top 60 Eco - https://www.scarva.com/en/Nabertherm-Top-60-Eco-Pottery-Kiln/k-4947.aspx The same kiln with the exact same exterior and interior dimensions can be bought also for 3-phase with more loaded KW (1-phase is 3.6 KW and the 3-phase is 5.5 KW). How is this difference affecting the firing and the objects? Thank you.
  23. I understand how the mold works when I have the object but I am in the situation where I have to create the object and after that build the mold. The first idea coming in my head is to use a 3D printer for the object and after make the mold. How are you doing it? Perfect straight walls can be made only when using a mold or I should improve my techniques? I am hand building from slabs and when I am creating a larger pot (40 cm x 20 cm) it seems impossible to keep everything 100% straight. For smaller pots is not hard. Even if the large pot seems straight during the building and finishing phases, at bone dry level is always deforming. I am slowly drying to bone dry, covering the whole object with a bag and putting it on a shelf. The room is heated from the ground level and there are no strong airs inside, it's a closed chamber.
  24. Same with this add on in the middle of the wall. Is it carved or added? If it's added on the wall, how can I obtain a straight, very thin form?
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