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JASON GANLEY

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  1. Maganese is what they use to add color to buff and darker clays, correct? I haven't had that problem with red clays or moroccan sand, etc. Weird.
  2. I am a high school teacher. The way my building is positioned, it is really hard to get sunlight to help with drying out slabs to leather hard. Since we only have 45 minutes each class, then 10 minutes to clean up, wheel thrown items can sit on their shelves overnight and be ready to trim 24 hrs later. However, with slabs, unless there is sun, forget about it. My morning students can't naturally dry slabs. And 24 hrs is too long for thin slabs to sit out before going too far towards bone dry. I've tried a fan, but it just doesn't seem to be that great, very uneven. And it Takes a long time. I've put slabs on my stone shelves in the 28 cubic foot gas kiln on pilot heat only, but I worry about drying rates, etc. Any work-around ideas? Has anyone made heat boxes, used commercial heat lamps, incubators, light bulbs in a box, doored cabinet hacks, etc? And what is a good temperature to safely dry slabs, work?
  3. Okay. I'm trying out a Laguna Clay Cone 5 called Buff with Sand. I have used a Cone 06 Buff with sand with no issues itching wise. However, It seems like the sand in the Cone 5 clay is much more flecked, white and dark sand. When I wash my hands, it seems to stay on the skin more. Kind of like going to the beach and not getting all the sand off your hands or feet. I swear, I feel like I get itchy or even irritated skin, like allergic reaction? Is this possible?
  4. I replied before I saw your second response... I may have misread... Are you saying that 2050 up to 2190 in your recommended schedule is for Bisque or for Glaze? I have been Bisque firing to Cone 04 (candle for 12 to 14 hrs, then start). To be safe, I've been going 108* / hr all the way up to Cone 04 (1940 or until the cone bends) with a soak at 1200. Well... I did that Cone 5 Glaze fire last night. 200* / hr up to 2000; 100* / hr up to 2150; 50* / hr up to 2250; Cone bent at 2208 That's the 2nd time I've gotten the cone to bend at exactly 2208 with this 50* at the top schedule (Orton Self Supporting cones). I think when I did 108* / hr the cone would bend at around 2178. So in terms of glaze, the 108 IS, in itself, a soak.
  5. Amazing. Great stuff. I was wondering why the Orton chart didn’t say glaze or bisque. So what do you think about the last hundred degrees of my firing for a glaze firing? 108° to 124°, or will 50° an hour give me a soak? It’s a soak necessary? I hear people talk about flattening out the glazes. I’ve got five minutes to make a decision or my kiln goes into 50° in our the last hundred degrees
  6. I am firing to cone 5. So many opinions on firing schedules for glaze firings. I have a 28 cu ft Geil, Gas, Downdraft, Fiber kiln. Orton says the cone will bend around 2187 F if you go up 108 degrees / hr. I did that once, got great results. I've been in the habit now of going up 100 degrees /hr from 2000 F to 2100, then slowing to 50 degrees / hr up to the cone bending That means a few hours from 2100 F up, which is a long soak, trying to get Oxidation, abut afraid I will burn out colors like yellow and Pink. I'm torn to go back to 108 hr, but that slow 50 hr in the last few hours is essentially like a built in hold, keeping the gas from cranking fast. Opinions.
  7. Hello. Does anyone in Los Angles have a Peter Pugger (hopefully a 20 or 30) I can come try out? I would just use clay you already have... chat a bit... bring you lunch or a coffee. I am desperate to try one to resolve my purchasing issue. I teach high school, and my last 2 pug mills (Bailey and Shampoo) had big issues. Peter Pugger does not have a single business in LA to test out a unit.
  8. I have a lot of experience with pug mills. I have a BAILEY MXP-70T. It sat for 5 years bagged up from the last teacher who never used it. It is a dual auger. I come on board and It worked for a while then the motor kept getting locked up and something broke in the motor area. Amazing mixes, but took forever, small hopper, and had to be hooked up outside my classroom to a single phase, 240v plug outdoors. Now out of warranty. I may sell it to someone who wants to embark on a Pandora's Box to repair it. I just bought a SHIMPO NVS-07. I bought it for the HUGE hopper door (10" x 13"), all-in-one design, and Shimpo's reputation and support. But I am beyond frustrated and returning it. It had major problems for me. I have spent over 25 hours with this machine. Unless the batch is absolutely perfect, it comes out with holes in the logs... or won't it won't pug And, it won't stop making holes unless you pug at speed 5 or less out of 10. So it takes forever! Even NEW CLAY out of the bag put in came out with holes (company says holes means it's too wet... that is ridiculous) Batch was PERFECT! See Tan clay photos It only pugs out about 28 useable out of 45 pounds mixed Water-added gets stuck right up into the lid so it doesn't get into the batch They made the Air intake IN the lid, so if clay gets stuck in the lid, the air intake is blocked ( not truly de-aired- I've had logs spinning as they come out) The latch for the door is really hard to open and close over and over again due to design It took 8 hours to pug up 4 boxes of clay due to having to re-do batches They want to charge me $500 restocking fee even though it doesn't perform they way it is advertised. I'm fighting this. That's wrong. I though about getting a PETER PUGGER 20. Now, I'm gun-shy. I can't find a single place in Los Angeles to try one out. My School District is leery now that I want to return the Shimpo. I like that PP can plug in to a normal wall plug like the Shampoo. It can be in my classroom. PETER PUGGER Questions: Has anyone gotten HOLES in the center of their clay logs from a PP? Do PPs also have to pug super slow? My Baily was fast. Does a lot clay get all stuck in the lid? Does it have to be cleared all the time? Does water tend to get shoved up into the lid area clay, not allowing it to affect the batch? Is the issue with sucking back-in the clay for the De-Airing to reach both chambers at least a "reliable" and a repeatable task for success? Can you mix batches a little wet or a little dry to suit your needs, without major issues (not pugging, holes, bubbles, etc.) Are single augers, though stronger and won't break down like dual augers, doomed to have these issues? I can't spend more than $5,000 See Photos. Photos of Shampoo NVS 07 holes in batches. New clay (tan) is straight out of the bag and old clay (grey) is mixed reclaim. The grey clay has a lot of sand so it tends to have that look in the photos. Jason
  9. JASON GANLEY

    Shimpo Vs. Peter Pugger

    DO NOT GET THE SHIMPO NVS 07. I have good experience with pug mills. I bought it and it LEAVES HOLES IN THE LOGS. See picture. The tan is new clay out of the bag. Seriously. They grey is recycled clay. The factory says my batches are too wet. Huh? The consistency, as seen wrapped around my finger, is perfect. Now they want to charge me $500 to restock it. I am fighting it tooth and nail. Should
  10. Can adding a scoop of Dry Mixed clay to a batch of recycled clay return it a bit to a stronger (purer) clay?
  11. JASON GANLEY

    Peter Pugger VPM 20SS

    OMG! I am a high school teacher. I just bought the SHIMPO NVS-07 because it has a huge hopper, but it is a pain in the ass! Not only am I getting HOLES in the middle of the logs, all of the water I add gets pushed up in the lid and doesn't mix into the batch. Unless the batch is perfect, it won't pug without a hole. I mixed fresh clay from the bag, from the Laguna factory, and it STILL made holes. They said it is too wet. I should be able to make a batch a little wetter or a little dryer if I want. 8 hours and pugged 4 boxes of clay. That is a waste of my time. I'll attach pictures of what the NVS-07 is doing. Now Shimpo wants me to pay them a 10% restocking fee ($500) to return it. WTF??? I'm going to fight it. PHOTOS: tan clay is NEW, out of the bag. Unacceptable. Grey clay is recycled clay.
  12. I need to find the best All-In-One clay for cone 5, great for both hand building and wheel throwing I know. That's a tall order. But I can dream. I have a pug mill and don't want 2 bodies. Problem: I have too many problems with my gas kiln for cone 06 anymore. I'm DONE. I am moving to cone 5. Criteria / Factors: I'm in Southern California I teach 180 high school students grades 9-12, all levels of art skills, so it has to take punishment Not too sandy on the wheel, not too smooth or squishy for hand building Not too dense so it is so top-heavy when trimming I'm willing to pug the new clay to soften it for throwing, if it is stiff and great for hand building, or visa versa Doesn't stain clothes or the tables, rolling pins, or make a mess everywhere Is not pure white (students can't see where they missed glazing spots when using light color glazes - painting) Good leather hard, doesn't soften up too easily when re-wetting to score things together Doesn't take every indentation to the surface of pieces, temperamentalD Centers on the wheel fairly easily, especially for teen girls with tiny hands Can take a good amount of water from beginners Pulling walls, it is strong, doesn't warp or sag easily Won't dry out too quickly in hands while hand building Doesn't bend or warp easily when removing from the wheel Not so soft that it caves when cutting and sliding off the wheel Doesn't make teens hate the class because it stains clothes or gets everywhere and of course, takes glazes well and can handle a little fluctuation in gas environments Cone 5 clays I've Tried: Laguna - Dover White: Nice clay, but pure white. easy to center, but A little soft when hand building Laguna - Plain (Buff): Nice light tan color, easy center and to rehydrate if repairing, but a bit too squishy and shows every dent Laguna - Moroccan Sand: I love this clay, doesn't leave residue - color, but a bit dense to center. It is really dark grayish brown, if they only could lighten it Laguna - Buff with Sand: Nice tan color, but WAY too sandy for students on the wheel Laguna - Greystone: Too dense and top heavy for small pieces, hard to center, but really takes a beating with water, warps when thin due to density of surrounding clay Laguna - Speckled Buff: A bit dark in color, has iron so it gets read everywhere, could stain (think girls with pure white vans) Laguna - LB-6: hmmm, can't remember, but nixed it very soon after Laguna - Sante Fe: OMG - red EVERYWHERE, like a crime scene Aardvark Clay - SBF - Too dark tan - a bit sticky for students Aardvark Clay -Arctic White: Too white Opinions???? Go!!!
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