Genboomxer

I wondered about that too, but I double checked and it's there. I can copy this schedule and remove the hold. However, like many kilns, mine fires unevenly and a hold somewhere in the process evens things out. Maybe add a 5 min hold at the beginning of the cool ramp (1900º)? P.S. - I triple checked. Turns out I was cocky at some point and took it out of Novice Mode and added the 15 min hold. Learning every day...

I just looked at the med/slow cone fire program and the schedule is: 120F/hr | 180; 120/hr | 250; 300F/hr | 1000; 150F/hr | 1100; 180F/hr | 1982; and final ramp is 108F/hr | 2232F with a 15 min hold, then a similar cool down to what I've been using. Looks very gradual with a 2-step 'candle'. I may skip the first segment since I usually wait a day or 3 for glazes to dry completely. I'll know in a couple weeks how it works out. I happen to have an infrared. Thanks for the tip! Prior to the last 3 firings I replaced the 6-30 plug because the old one got hot and melty around the prongs. I've basically overhauled this little kiln! I'm probably expecting it to do more than it can. My education and experience continue. Thanks again!!!

Interesting. How would the 350F/hr ramp affect the next segment, 150F/hr slowing, and why should that matter if the final ramp up is the more important? The 500F/hr was a paste error. I ran the schedule with 9999. Confirmed set to type K. Also, I found the Genesis tech manual. I'm now armed and dangerous.

Seg. 1 - 100F/h | 220F Seg. 2 - 350F/h | 2000F Seg. 3 - 150F/h | 2190F | 5min hold Seg. 4 - 9999/h | 1900F | 5min hold Seg. 5 - 125F/h | 1400F I'm pretty sure it's set up correctly, but I haven't found anything in the controller's menu that indicates the controller is specifically programmed for a TC type. Here's my response to Bill:

Neither. I took the pic from the vendor's site. They indicate it is a type K direct replacement. I looked at the one installed on my unit and it looks identical. I checked and there are no markings indicating what it is on the TC. When I first installed the controller the TC was way out of whack on the first firing because the manufacturer incorrectly installed the jump across the pins for a type S. I called Bartlett and they walked me through removing the pin jump. I cannot find in the manual where to verify TC type other than jumped or un-jumped terminals for type S or K. Type R isn't mentioned anywhere. It does provide offset and zone info, and all looks proper with my controller. I also checked the red/yellow TC connections to the control board to make sure they are tight. I calibrate the room temperature before firing. I notice the TC will 'drift' a deg or 2 each time it's moved out of place, so I zero it out and recalibrate accordingly. I'm using a digital instant read thermometer given to me by an HVAC tech buddy as my standard. Perhaps this is the crux of my issue? I use the cone firing program for 04 and have zero problems and I achieve proper, consistent results. Maybe I'm trying to outsmart the physical limitations of my kiln by using a custom? It's possible there is contact with wire insulation. but I do not see and direct contact to the TC's outer shell. I have kaowool pretty well packed around it. I've been learning not to be too concerned with reaching peak temp. A fussy kiln is turning out to be a great education! I understand peak temp is more a reference than a goal. This last firing turned out fine for the clay body and glazes I use, but I would rather not have to babysit a kiln all day, or what's a controller for?

Well, I'm back. The good news is my kiln functions and I had a successful glaze firing, and there was no error code. However... Because I was getting the E1 code in the final ramp to peak temp, I babysat the firing to closely monitor progress. Witness cones on all 3 shelves; top shelf pack visible through peep hole. The schedule graph indicates the kiln should reach peak target temp (2190º F) in 8 hours. All seemed like it was doing fine until about 6 hours in when things started slowing down in seg. 2. The photo of the graph shows it took 8 hours to reach seg. 3 (2000ºF), then things really slowed down. Seg. 3 was also slow, but I did not get the E1 code like before. I checked the cone pack and cone 6 was down at about 2h40m into seg.3 @ 2144ºF . At this point I skipped into seg. 4 with a 5m hold @1900ºF and let it finish. The result was a pretty close to cone 6 firing with a peak temp of 2146ºF. Packs from R to L = Top, Mid, Bottom shelves. Looks like I needed a longer hold. I now suspect a bum thermocouple. Yes, replacement was recommended, but I wanted to see if my problem was due to all the other variables. This is the model installed - It ain't cheap and I have a spare type K that is the wire/porcelain insulator kind. Will it work the same?

I win! Full power test gives hot elements, and seems like it's heating faster than the last time I did the test. If that's possible. Hopefully this means an end to E1 codes. Thank you for the expert help and patience, and for making me a lot smarter.

I repurposed the extra wires so nothing changed in that regard. Thanks again! I think I finally got it . Please take a look at the final photo above for how it looks now. I'm about to plug it in and give it a whirl.

Here's a closeup of my relay. This is the inside of the panel now that I've removed all the unnecessary components and wired to the controller.

I was using your drawing as a reference for the numbers and positions, not functionality. I don't think the relay in my model functions the same. I know I'm the problem here with descriptions. Now that I figured out how to post photos - Here they are: This is how it was and is wired per the wiring diagram. The uppermost poles correspond to the top and bottom element set. The bottom most poles correspond to the middle element set. The wires in between them route to the controller. Here's an annotated diagram describing routing of element wires to relay. I'm deleting the relay altogether, I think all I need to do is take the element wires from the left of the relay and connecting them to the left terminal of the controller, and the element wires from the left side of the relay to the right terminal of the controller. The wires in the diagram noted as 'to controller right/left' are redundant and will be deleted. The thumbwheel wires have already been removed as were both infinity switches. I have a shot of the panel and wires after my butchery if you need it. It's a bit tangled looking though. Have I made anything clearer?

Bill - The diagram you linked corresponds to how my kiln is wired. The relay installed is a T92P11A22-240. Comparing the diagram and using the relay drawing you provided poles 8 & 4 are the control; poles 6 & 1 and 2 & 0 route to the elements. Am I reading the diagram correctly?

Undoing last reply - According to the FX23 diagram, 0 and 1 correspond to the middle element set; 6 and 2 for the top and bottom. So I should be able to connect 6 and 0 to the left side and 2 and 1 to the right. 8 and 4 are from the controller and are redundant. Do you agree? f. https://cressmfg.wpenginepowered.com/wp-content/uploads/FX23F-FTX23-220.pdf Your patience is truly appreciated.

Bill and Neil - I appreciate your sticking with me.. I think I've figured out what I need to do, I just need confirmation. Bill - great explanation for how the relay activates power to each element group. That confirmed to me that I really do not need a relay at all (even though I have 2 on the way, oh well). Neil - I've determined it's best to wire the element sets directly to the controller. Fewer variables in a circuit can''t be a bad thing. I have already gutted the panel of the old Cress parts and associated wiring, and I will be doing the same for the relay as well. I plan on using as few wires and connections as possible for safety and ease of service. Please review my following plan and let me know if you both think this will be successful - Using Bill's relay diagram and attached photo of the electro sitter: If I put ring terminals in the wires that correspond to terminal 6, 7, and 1, then attach those to the left 'To Kiln' terminal, and do the same for wires 2, 3, and 0, then attach to the right, it should work. Right? Anything else I forgot to consider?

Hopefully the image I edited is visible... On the relay, the top 2 terminals actuate the top and bottom elements. The bottom 2 terminals connect to the middle elements. Call the left side column 1 and the right column 2. If I connect column 1 wires to the left 'Kiln Out' terminal and column 2 wires to the right, this should work according to what I think you are saying. Correct? Sorry if I'm slow on the uptake. This is new territory for me. Detail Kiln Relay.pdf

Thanks! So it really IS as simple as I thought. The terminal locations on the relay (in the diagram) confused me until I realized that it switches right to left; not top to bottom. I'll run out and get some ring terminals and give it a go.