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Wyndham

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Everything posted by Wyndham

  1. I've ventured back into porcelain for some clay self abuse. I'm trying highwaters p10 cone 10 and running into an old problem. I use masonite bats for my c10 stoneware with no problem running cut wire after turning. After making sure there's no water around base and making a clean trim line before cut off, P10 is re attaching and when it releases taking chunks of clay at the foot. These are old 8x8 in drop in homemade bats for small pieces and mugs. The porcelain is for crystalline serving plates(cracker,cookies and such) If I continue with porcelain, should I pour some plaster or ceramical bats to give even drying and release times or make new Masonite 8x8's and add a water seal. The drying from the outside of the foot is where the problem is. A drying/damp box is not a practical at this time Thanks for any thoughts Wyndham
  2. I'll try wait til firmer before cut off. Interesting observation about the clay content. I know Starworks (Starwhite c10) has soda spar and it tends to craze. I have had good results with Miller 55 a 6-10 clay at c10 for crystalline but don't like the way it throws. Will also try a thcker cut off wire. Wyndham
  3. I recently had a fellow who wants a Tanjene (sp) a middle eastern cooking vessel that can go on a gas burner with a heat diffuser metal plate that allows a clay cooking vessel to be used on a gas stove burner. On further info, the Tanjene(SP) is earthenware and the food being cooked is a wet dish as opposed to a dry cooking dish or frying. How well or poorly would stoneware cooking vessels work with a heat diffuser, if at all
  4. stove top heat difusser question

    Yea, that's what I was thinking. There is a micaious clay from NM Clay ,an earthenware that might work but it's not a firm order so I'll put it in the "Some day to try" stack thanks Wyndham
  5. Crystalline Glaze Chemstry

    Thanks for the info. I can see things going very bad very quickly.
  6. Crystalline Glaze Chemstry

    A very interesting read. I have been done this rabbit hole for many years now and find there is more to go than where I've been. That being said, an early comment on the types of zinc white yellow and metallic. I have been gifted some metallic zinc powder which was used in making battleship gray for the Navy. How would one go about creating a glaze test using this material, if at all. I use a 50% 3110 26% calcined zno 23% sil and a pinch of epk. peak temp 2300f w/5min hold Looking forward to trying something new just rewired my kiln Thanks Wyndham
  7. Shinos

    This is just a FYI. Star Ceramic supply in Star NC has a native high fire red clay called "East Fork", a clay mostly composed of a Catawba clay from upper NC clay used for generations for folk potters of the area. It burns dark brown in reduction, sandy and throws very well. It might be something worth looking into.
  8. I was thinking about making a gloss white c6 with enough magnesium aka dolomite or talc to have both a white(w/zircopax) and a lavender w/ a touch of cobalt carb. Any idea how much mag carb is needed to shift cobalt to a pale lavender, maybe a shade of lilac. I have someone who wants a coffee mug in that color but I hope not to have to use stains to get it. Thanks Wyndham
  9. I looked at Ashley's best as well as several others in John's mid range book there are seveal that look like they have enough mag carb will test several. .5% cobalt carb should do it. at lest that's about where I'll start Thanks for the tip on Tin vs zircopax, maybe some of both. Wyndham
  10. Thanks, I have that glaze ,will try that next fining. What do you think about some zirocpax to increase opacity make it creamier
  11. Also don't leave the cork in while drying, the clay will shrink and crack the clay.. When I made them I found that my index finger to about the second knuckle worked as a reliable measuring device, still have it, hope I don't loose it
  12. I Ate Some Clay.

    The tasting method was used by the early Seagrove (NC)potters to tell when they passed the grittier strata and in to the smooth production clay. the mouth is more sensitive than fingers. Cream cheese looks like a really good training tool for turning porcelain, or visa versa. Wyndham
  13. it also looks like a reduction fired test, as iron does go green in reduction
  14. I've got a request for a blue/blue green glaze for a cone 6 cassarole. I'm thinking of using Frogpond's sapphire blie but changing the colorants to about 3/4%cobalt carb and about 1 or 2 % copper carb instead of the 1.5% cobalt carb and the 4% rutile. The glaze I'm trying to match is a clear dark bluebreaking to green blue. I'm hoping someone her has testes different colorants in this base. Please let me know some thoughts on this, if you can. Thanks Wyndham
  15. try putting a test piece in cone 10 firing, it might shrink a bit more but it will vitrify. Put a bit of extra kiln wash where you'll place the test in case it wants to fuse to the shelf. Should be usable, just test. If you are firing gas for cone 10 just place it in a cool spot in the kiln. Wyndham
  16. Turn them upside down while drying to keep from wrapping after cutting. Give it a try Wyndham
  17. Glaze Test Results

    looks like a line blend to see what works well in in order. I have sone space in an upcoming firing for this. thanks Wyndham
  18. Glaze Test Results

    Flowing green is an interesting glaze. Is it the same as float green or is it in john Britt's book Thanks Wyndham
  19. Mark it looks like a great Ohata red. hard to tell but are there flitter iron crystals? Maybe a close up if you could. Gotta try this in next firing. Thanks Wyndham
  20. Does Your Bentonite Do Enough For You In The Studio?

    Bentonite is also called drillers mud used in oil well drilling to fill voids in layers as the drill stem goes down. It allows the drilling pressure to stay high. Wyndham
  21. I think the key to a controlled firing in a digital controlled firing is to have each zone(as Neil touched on) controlled by it's own thermocouple. One T/C in the middle can not give the control that 3, each in it's own zone can do.The other factor is to make sure the T/C is in good working shape and change it out as it begins to show problems. Have witness cones in each zone to know what the heat work is doing. Kiln sitter will age out and sometimes fail to shut off, I've had at lest 3 go out over 20 years on different kilns, causing over firing Stuff happens manual or digital Wyndham
  22. What Is Wrong With This Recipe?

    I hope you did not misinterpret, calcine the EPK not the colemanite Wyndham
  23. What Is Wrong With This Recipe?

    You might try calcining some EPK which means in your next bisque firing put a bowl full of EPK in the bisque. clay and gertsley borate sometimes bond together and fall off the pot.Calcining the epk and using 5% epk and 5% calcined epk will help, maybe enough to solve the issue. I'd also cut the gertsley down and add back a frit like 3134. There are several glaze calc online free programs that will help you balance it out. Just a guess but cut the gerstley to 10% add 11% 3134 and decrease the silica by about 3%. I don't have a program in front of me so this is just a wild guess. Hope this helps Wyndham
  24. Just got this link from John Britt about rice ash available in 5 gal pails. Check it out http://ncclayclub.blogspot.com/2015/05/rice-hull-ash.html?spref=fb Wyndham edit here's the home url http://www.greasweep.com/
  25. I think I have come up with a small(8-10 cu ft) flat top down draft gas kiln design but need help with burner placement. I will use 2 venturi burners(hi pressure regulated) coming in from the back each left & right beside the exit flue. Between the interior wall and the ware shelves, how much space should I allow. The shelf layout will be either 4 14x14 shelves with 4 inches between the interior wall and the side edge of the shelves on both sides or using 13x13 shelves this will allow 5 inch flame channel on each side with something of a half brick about 2/3rds down the channel to lift the flame.(no bag wall) The bottom shelves will have either a series of 2.5 in bricks under the flame side of the shelves to keep the flame from being sucked out the exit flue until comes down in the front face of the shelves. there is also a 2 in spacing between the back set and the front set and 2 in between the front set and the front wall. This is going to be a top loader with a hinged 3 in fiber top firing to cone 6 and maybe cone 10 reduction I'm wondering if I have missed that something someone here might see. Thanks Wyndham
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