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tluvs2create

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About tluvs2create

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  1. Slip Casting Cracks

    Thought things were going well. Popped out of mold with no cracks, day one drying no cracks then the fateful day - day 3: This is what I find: Seems the cracks follow the flow of the slip as I was pouring. Is it the slip, perhaps? Again this is commercial - Amaco. I have no clue as to how to make my own slip - seems pretty complicated with measuring gravity etc.... Really didn't want to get into all that.
  2. Crackle Glaze Not Cracking

    Yep, looks like it is still cracking. I kept hearing little cracks while they were sitting there and upon close inspection, there are cracks. Unfortunately, they aren't as noticeable as I would like. Is the coffee just for me to test the cracks or will it stay that way. I have heard to use india ink. I have no india ink, but I do have coffee. Thank you!
  3. Just purchased some of Amaco's Old World Crackle Glazes and followed directions - 3 coats - applied cross hatched, fire to cone 05. Took them out of the kiln this morning and there are no cracks. I did a google search for why this might be the case, and there is nothing. Any ideas. I so love that crackle look but I am not into making my own glazes. Thanks much! BTW: My kiln fires cone 05 to just over 1900 degrees at a rate of 270 degrees an hour. NOt sure how fast it cools, but seems it was about 300 degrees cooler after 2 hours had passed.
  4. Slip Casting Cracks

    Wonderful thoughts and comments. In answer to them; The tile is fairly even in thickness all over, it just has a slight relief. Yes, this was the first casting in this mold (well first after weeks). The last time I used it, I press molded it. The only reason I tried slip pouring it was to see if it would act in the same way as the cross and the larger tile. Trying to see if it was the slip or the mold most likely causing the problem. I mixed it up real good (shook it and stirred it) and poured it quickly. No, it wasn't dry or even setting up when this last bit of slip was poured - at least as far as I can remember - unless I came back later and saw it needed a little more after some drying had taken place. To tell you the truth, at first thought I would say no - but as I think about it more, I may have added some more later after it was starting to set-up. Honestly, I can't remember. I am using a commercial slip from Amaco. I called to ask them about it and they said I was the first to complain of this problem. She mentioned using a release agent on it and was going to have me talk to the tech. guy. I haven't had a chance to talk to him yet. It seems to be very smooth and consistent throughout. I will try pouring another all at once with no additions at a later time - perhaps that is what I did - just can't remember. Thanks so much again, very, very insightful.
  5. Slip Casting Cracks

    Wow, wonderful, thanks so much and thanks for all those great illustrations. I will definitely give this a try. BUT, take a look at this photo - any idea why these cracks would form? There were no cracks when I pooped it out of the mold. The cracks only seemed to form after a day or so of drying. Also, seems the cracks are right in the areas where the last of the drizzles of slip were poured. Any thoughts would again be very much appreciated. Thanks so very much!
  6. Slip Casting Cracks

    Yep, was having trouble with press molding this larger more detailed tile - getting creases. That is why my friend suggested slip pouring. In fact she says she has poured thousands of tiles and never had this problem. THese are just one part open-face tile molds. This large one is an 8x8 square with a relief in the center of it - that is where it took the longest to dry because obviously that is where more slip was needed to fill out that center relief. However, that is where it is cracked the most. The cross dried the quickest at the smallest, thinnest area where the arms all come together. I have yet to press that one, but probably could with little trouble for it is not as detailed as the larger square tile. But, why did the smaller 4x6 less detailed tile look fine and pop out of mold fine, but then start to crack in the center and some around the edges only after a day or so of drying? Do I need to dry it slower - mist it perhaps with some water and cover with plastic for a while? Again, these are not little hairline cracks they are fairly large, wide cracks. One other thought? I placed an order for some glaze on Friday and they would not ship until Monday, they said because it was so cold. Got me thinking, it was cold when the slip shipped (although, it was here the very next day), just wondering if the cold could have affected it in this way? Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions, I really appreciate it.
  7. Slip Casting Cracks

    A friend suggested I try slip casting with the tile molds that I have made, especially a larger more detailed one. I have to admit, I loved the ease of it. However, I am having problems with cracking. What am I doing wrong? I have gone through a whole gallon of the stuff. My first cast was a larger 8x8 detailed tile (with somewhat high relief in the center). This one cracked a lot in the center. The outside areas of course firmed up quickly far quicker than the center, so I left it the dry for sometime. When I returned, it was dry enough to pop out but had a lot of cracks in the center. So, I tried it again and kept my eye on it - still took some time for all parts of the tile to dry enough to pop out of mold and was developing cracks in some areas while other areas were still very wet. So, figure this was too large and detailed a tile to mold. So, I tried a cross shape that I had made, smaller thinner and simpler. However, this one dried quickly in the center and quickly formed cracks again before the outer portions of the cross could even set up. So, I figured that was just not a good design either for casting. Next I tried one of my fairly simple, 4 x 6 low relief tile. This one seemed to dry nicely - no cracks, popped out of mold and then left to dry on drywall board then sandwiched between drywall board. During this drying process it developed cracks in the center and near the edges. These cracks BTW look like the kind you see if you had pudding in your frig. un-covered for too long - not hairline cracks at the edges or anything. So, what am I doing wrong? Is there anything I can/should be doing to prevent this or should I give up on slip casting all together? Thanks much for any help you can give.
  8. Copyright ?

    Interesting, because we went on a tour of a tile making place and they told us that they use images from the arts and crafts era (which was before copyright laws). The artist/owner gets her designs from images on the net and in books - takes them and adjusts them so that they are appropriate for tiles. They have been in business for over 10 years and are very well known (at least in my neck of the woods). I am not talking about copying it completely as is. I guess just using it as inspiration. What about Leonardo's Last Supper - how many times has that been copied and used in various other forms?
  9. Copyright ?

    When or how do I know if an image is copyrighted? For example a design on the front cover of a book, or from a magazine (I have one in particular that has a close-up from a piece of art that was created in 1181 ad). Can I take this art and use it in my own art? I have an image on a book that I have and it has no information whatsoever on where it came from. How about other images in books etc.... It is so confusing and I don't want infringe on copyrights but there are many things that I come across that are very inspiring to me. Most things I would most certainly add my own twist/artistic interpretation on it but is this in anyway infringing on copyright? Thanks
  10. Hairline Cracks During Bisque Firing- Why?

    One more question, okay if I coat the edges with wax, should I do it right away after it comes out of the mold? Or should I let it dry some first? Will it still dry enough with the wax coating on it?
  11. Hairline Cracks During Bisque Firing- Why?

    Wow, Marcia, what a wealth of information. Thank you so much. I will give it all a try. I've invested way too much time into this project to just give up.
  12. Hairline Cracks During Bisque Firing- Why?

    I have had one successful tile - glaze and everything! How do I repair with paper clay? I am sorry - but I am pretty new to all this. My friend told me I choose one of the most difficult things (molded tiles) to do. Hence the reason she does not do them. Does it have anything to do with how I put the clay into the mold? I started with slabs but got a lot of creases, so someone suggested I just pull off pieces of clay and push into mold and keep doing this until I build it all up. This seems to help a bit with eliminating most creases. After that, I then cover it with canvas and pound on it with the rubber mallet, then put a block of wood down on top of it and canvas and pound down on it more. Could it have anything to do with adding a little water to try to smooth out some of the creases when it came out of the mold. I know I did work on the edges of the tile a bit. As far as the kiln goes, I am not sure, but I may have put the "successful" tile on my stilts (that I use when I am glazing) so that they were raised off the shelf/bottom a little bit. How about the firing process? I read somewhere about firing too quick. I just put the cone in, turned it all on and walked away (about 2 hours later - all complete - then let cool completely). Would it help if I left the "peep" hole open and/or vented the top and/or just flipped the bottom switch and later come back and flip the upper switch? What are tile setters? Do them have them to fit a 7x7 tile? Thank you so much for your time and thoughts. I really, really appreciate it!
  13. Well, next dilemma in the tile endeavor. Thanks for your patience and assistance. I have had one completely successful (glazed too) tile out of many tries. I was hoping to have 2 more today. I opened the kiln of my bisque firing and found my 2 tiles with hairline cracks either from the bottom inward or the sides inward. History of the process, they are 7x7 hand pressed molded tiles. They are about 3/4" thick and were given plenty of drying time before the cone 04 bisque firing. I have a small kiln - it is about 9x9 (octagon shape) and I placed one tile on the bottom and the next on a shelf that sits about 2" above that and place the next tile on it. My friend thought maybe there was not enough air circulation. The kiln was completely closed from the very beginning of the firing. Any ideas come to mind as to why this happened and what to do to prevent it? This happened one other time before and I just ignored the crack and glazed it hoping the glaze would cover/fix it but instead the crack made its way almost all the way to the other side. Help - please?
  14. Tile Making With Mold

    I have made a mold of my tile and now am making duplicates. However, some of the time they come out with little "creases" here and there and I am not sure why this happens. The creases are in areas that I can't always smooth out, like in the text or the reliefed portion of the design. I am smoothing out a "slab" of clay that is approximately the size of the tile I carefully lay that slab over the area of the mold, then cover with a canvas cloth and pound firmly but gently with a rubber mallet - starting at the center and working outward. Then I put a flat board over it and pound with the mallet. I do this a few times then remove excess clay by using a piece of wood (like a ruler) and pull it across (starting again from the center outward). Any idea why this is happening? Why sometimes and not others. Thanks for any tips you can give.
  15. Coloring Embossed Lettering

    Can I ask you how you get the letters with the embossed look? I have a post asking just this question. I have some stamps but when I stamp them in the clay the letters are recessed. Then I thought I would make stamps out of the recessed clay to get the embossed look but I can't reverse the letters which is what it needs to be to turn out right. I can reverse the order of the lettering to come out correct by the letters cannot themselves be reversed. Does this make sense? Did you purchase some kind of stamp set where the letters themselves are recessed? Or am I missing something? I have been racking my brain on how to get the raised letters. Sorry I can't help on the glazing - haven't gotten that far yet.
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