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About Maddriel

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    Pittsburgh, PA
  1. Thanks all! When I get in to the studio tomorrow I will check the kiln for any present offset settings, then I will call Olympic for advice. It still seems counter-intuitive to me to have to use some sort of off set programming... It is like you are making up for the failing of the kiln, better to solve the root problem? Anyway, in the long and the short, this kiln cost me $75 and a weekend of camping. It has lasted over 40 firings strong. If Olympic can't help me, then I will find another option! Thanks to all who chipped in!
  2. Marcia, For my glaze firings I fire to cone 5 and program in a 15 minute soak, for bisque I do not program a soak. Even with the soak, the clay is not vitrified. I hate to raise the cone in the program in a glaze firing because my clay is very susceptible to bloating above cone 5. Cavy, Mine is Betsy! :-)
  3. Hello All! I am having an issue with my kiln and I would love some sage advice. I haven't always used witnes cones (I know, I know) but I started noticing that my clay body was not reaching vitrification despite my kiln reporting a successful firing. I use Standard 266 Dark Brown so it's obvious to see when the color has not deepened enough. My first thought was the thermocouple and I replaced that but I am still having the issue. According to the witness cones I have been using for the past five firings the kiln has been firing 2 cones low. (all bisque to 04 since I don't trust this kiln with glaze right now). I have been programming the kiln to fire higher, if I program to 02 It will reach a soft 04. I don't really know if there was a gradual slide for a while and then a big dip, or if it was all gradual and I just didn't catch it. My kiln tech advised me to get new elements, but this seems counter-intuitive to me. If the problem were the elements, then wouldn't I just get an error message because the kiln could not reach temperature? Instead the display reports a completed firing, but the witness cones disagree. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated! Olympic Electric Kiln Model 2318HE 240 volts 8400 watts 34 amps Phase 1
  4. Hello All! I have a friend who is looking to make an engagement ring. He has asked if I could fire it in my kiln. He would be making it out of gold PMC which I gather fires at 1290 degrees for an hour and a half or so. I have absolutely no experience with precious metal clay. Can you fire it in a Skutt 1027-3? Just seeing if anyone has any helpful words of wisdom! Thanks!
  5. Hi All, I have a firing problem and I wonder if anyone can help me. I have a Skutt KS 1027-3 that is probably 15 yrs old. (I work in a school environment) It has a kiln sitter (LT-3 or LT-3K, I am not in the studio and can't remember!) During the last two bisque firings (I have not tried a glaze firing in this kiln recently) the kiln has overheated, going well beyond 05 - probably more into the 6 range! Bisque pieces are coming out well vitrified, we use a mid-range clay and the pieces have a sheen on the surface in spots. The kiln sitter bar melted and the kiln did not trip. The first time it happened, I made sure the sensing rod was moving freely and replaced the rests, using a coat of kiln wash just in case. I then fired the kiln with just posts, shelves and witness cones. During this firing the kiln performed fine. I then loaded up the next bisque load (kept it relatively light, we do have some heavier sculptures, but I kept it sparse-r), held my breath and fired again. Again, the kiln overfired, the bar had melted. Thank goodness for timers! The witness cones I put in (05 and 04) were black puddles on the shelves. This kiln had the elements replaced late last school year, top to bottom, but it doesn't seem that it would be an element issue. The kiln seems to be heating up just fine, it's the shutting off part that is the problem! Thanks in advance for any ideas!