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Alina Albu

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Everything posted by Alina Albu

  1. Firing times

    Hello folks I am interested in reducing the length of glaze firing for my pots. I was told, or rather, I always assumed, that you need to fire slowly to about 600ºC, then get up to temperature asap. I fire at 1255ºC, electric. (sorry not familiar with cone systems). I have come across pottery bloggers who claim the need to fire slowly is a myth. After all, the industry fires tiles in 45 minutes from crude. And once, I had some pieces of porcelain fired by a kiln technician who set up the program to finish in 6 hours! and it worked. I use an electric kiln and don't want to damage it by doing crazy firings. Can I really do a firing cycle for porcelain in 6 hours? Pieces previously bisqued. Any suggestions, much appreciated, Alina
  2. Firing times

    This is key- depending on what type of an effect you want from your glaze. A glaze that yields a complex, matte or crystalline surface with a slow cool-down can be translucent or even transparent if the kiln is just switched off at its peak. Either may be fine... but be aware of what you want. Hi Kohaku, At the moment I am after glossy glazes, but will bear that in mind when trying something different. Like your signature line. And "All that glitters is not gold". (no, it´s my glossy glaze! hehe)
  3. Firing times

    Hi Mark, I am after glossy glazes anyway, don´t do any matte or crystalline. At least not for now. My issue was trying to get a slow cooling period down to 800ºC, and that was not possible on my kiln as it only has 4 phases, of which the first three were taken with the ramping up and soaking. I have to fire overnight and I am not always there to fiddle with the controls. So, what I am going to do from now on, I´ll try and get to top temp in one phase, soak in phase two, cool slowly to 800ºC in phase three, and that gives me another phase for cooling off to the end. Yep, that might work. Thanks Alina
  4. Glaze percentages

    Hello there I have this handwritten glaze recipe where the ingredients are correct, but the percentages don't seem to add up to 100 for the main body. It is possible i made a mistake when I jotted them down. I don't have time to test, can anyone suggest what I could do to fix it?Does it need fixing or is it possible it's ok the way it is? Shall I use less dolomite?Like 12%? Sodium Feldspar 85% Dolomite 15% Bentonite 3% Add: Rutile 6% Cobalt 0.4& Any help, much appreciated Alina
  5. Glaze percentages

    Hi mregecko Oxide. I am not familiar with cones, I fire at 1255ºC with a 20 min soak and it works beautifully for me. Tried the glazesimulator, don't agree with above cone ten - is there anything above cone ten?! This is a glaze that has been used by other potters I know for this range of temp. Sometimes these things are too clever for their own good.(:-) Have a great weekend!
  6. Glaze percentages

    Aaaaah, now that makes sense - Thank you Marcia. I must say I did not think that about Bentonite. We live and learn. Jim and TJR - I have used the glaze before, it was at another potter's studio, she dictated the recipe to me (hence my thinking I made a mistake). It is a nice kind of sky blue glaze, glossy, I like it on all bodies ~but will have to test it on my new black clay. However, it does tend to "spit" a teeny little bit, not quite sure why. My guess is that it happened when I laid it on a bit thick. Anyway, thanks again. Problem solved. Alina
  7. Firing times

    This is great, thanks everybody! I guess I'll go for it. Marcia, I will only have a few hours to let the glaze dry. Hope that will be enough.
  8. Dear potters, Help, please: I need a recipe for a (creamy) white glossy glaze. All I seem to come accross in the books I have is, at best, satin, or dry, and not glossy. I work in stoneware and porcelain (oxidation, anything between 1240ºC - 1300ºC, or 2264ºF - 2372ºF, (not that familiar with cones - cone 6, minimum?). I am based in Europe, so I can't have certain ingredients (US Ferro frits, for instance). I can buy locally the usual culprits: kaolin, feldspars, dolomite, ball clay, nepheline syenite, whiting, silica, quartz, oxides, that sort of thing. Anyone care to share?(:-) It would be very much appreciated. Alina Albu
  9. Glossy white glaze wanted

    Thank you, folks. Back to testing, and I´ll see what comes out. Alina
  10. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-york-north-yorkshire-21807775#
  11. And I´m off to my studio now to see if I can knock up a few of these... http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-us-canada-21857435 Sigh.
  12. I would like to make a wall plaque in porcelain with a quote on in. Is there some obvious, simple way to write on porcelain? I have considered alphabet spaghetti, but can´t see how I´m going to get the "ink" in the grooves without smearing it everywhere else. I lam looking for "printing" on clay that is crisp and clear. Any suggestions - much appreciated. Alina
  13. How do I write on clay?

    Thank you all. I guess stamp it is, and 'll have to be very careful at filling the grooves - last time I made a bit of a mess. Alina
  14. What is this?

    These shelving units are black steel with pressed board shelves. They are used for storage. The units dimensions are 36" wide, 12" deep and 60" tall. The boxed unit weighed 35 pounds; from Home Depot. Thank you Lucille. I think I know the type. I was hoping it was some sort of wood shelving you can put up without tools and fretting. Somehow, I don´t think they have been invented. Yet.
  15. What is this?

    Lucille - thanks for the explanation - I had no idea you can do that! By the way, what do your boltless shelves look like? I am trying to devise something simple and easy to take around to fairs. Much appreciated. I know this is not what this feed is about(:-)
  16. What is this?

    Don´t know, but it gave me some inspiration for a tea light holder. Is it some sort of incense burner? and when you say don´t use screen shots, what do you mean? thanks Alina
  17. I am trying to use a local stoneware that is not very plastic/elastic. What can I add to it in order to improve it? Many thanks.
  18. clay elasticity (or not)

    Hi Neil Thanks for the info. It looks like what they call here "national stoneware" might actually be white earthenware(?). It fires at 1100-1200ºC.
  19. clay elasticity (or not)

    Hi Ben Maybe I was a bit loose with the term "local". It comes from North of Portugal - everything else here is aslo earthenware. Alina
  20. clay elasticity (or not)

    Grog helped. Thank you. Alina
  21. clay elasticity (or not)

    Very smooth, and quite a dark grey. I buy it from the local supplier.
  22. clay elasticity (or not)

    Hi Marcia Thank you for your reply. I have already tried aging it - it improved a lot in terms of manageability. However, I still have problems pulling it up for taller forms. It keeps sliding back down, sort of thing. I´ll try adding some bentonite or ball clay and see what happens. Don´t fancy adding urine(!). Now beer, that´s another story. "She throws with beer" could be my motto, "and sometimes she also adds it to the clay!" (sorry could not help myself:-) Thanks again
  23. New questions on glazes and food safety

    Roma, Welcome to the CAD forums. Yes you can say..... and likely it is "Mastering Cone Six Glazes" by John Hesselberth and Ron Roy. The title of that book is unfortunate... because what they have to say in a lot of it pertains to so much more than just the cone 6 range. I do feel that I have to clarify one point you made a bit though. There are tests you can do in your studio that give you SOME information about if your glazes are safe. They are a great start ......... and are certainly FAR better than doing nothing. But they ARE "home tests"... and far from normal engineering standard testing.....which is what industry is using and is really the "legal yardstick". Not that I am saying they are useless....... NOT by any means. I've presented on a glaze panel at NCECA with Ron and I KNOW that he knows what he is talking about. That is an EXCELLENT book. Ther are labs that you can send tests to that give you what we might call "real numbers". It is not expensive to do. Mononna Rossol (ACTS- NY) recommends that for the non-regulated oxides you use the EPA drinking water standards as a guideline to compare to the standard leaching tests. That is a WAY conservative approach. If you use lead and cadmium compounds and sell in the USA you MUST follow the US FDA laws and if you sell in California, also the California statutes for those compounds (Californai is tougher on this issue). There are as of yet no other oxides regulated by US law in glazes. best, ........................john Hi John, Yes that´s the book - thank you. Very interesting reading for any potter. Regards
  24. New questions on glazes and food safety

    I have recently read a book written by potters, for potters, about exactly the issue of safety in glazes. Very interesting, highly recommended. There are tests in there you can do in your studio in order to know if your glazes are safe (-ish). But as I am not sure I can say what the book is, as it may seem to be promoting it (which it deserves, in my opinion) , perhaps someone can suggest another way i can mention it to whoever might be interested? sorry I am new to this.

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