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Snickerhaus Studio

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Posts posted by Snickerhaus Studio

  1. On 2/6/2024 at 4:45 PM, oldlady said:

    i try to save money on simple things so i can buy something else.   i use hot wax that i get free from thrift shops who get bent, partly burned, or dirty candles that they would normally throw away.   i supply a box about 12x12 inches  and  ask them to drop those off into the box.    i check back and find when the box is filled and pick it up, dropping a dollar or two into their cash drawer.

    all candles work well, my favorites are red or any other dark color so when they melt, i can see them on the clay more easily than the clear i get with purchased wax.    the last box i got about 2 years ago  is still half full.

    there is one kind of candle to avoid totally!   anything with "snow" or sparkles of any kind should not be melted,   there is something in them that is bad.   i do not know why, i only know the results were so bad the work met mr hammer.  

    Good idea to reuse.  Thank you for pointing out to watch out for additives. Like sparkles. That must have been so frustrating to have had your piece gone so far in the process, then get ruined by sparkles!

  2. On 2/7/2024 at 10:21 AM, GEP said:

    Another soy wax user here. I much prefer it to paraffin. Not only does it smell less, it melts to a more liquid consistency, therefore makes a straighter line on your pot. When you dip a pot into melted paraffin, the top edge of the paraffin can be wobbly and uneven, because it starts to solidify against your pot too fast. 

    Note that it’s possible to by the wrong type of soy wax. There are some soy wax pellets that are formulated to stay soft when cool. Those do not resist glaze very well. Make sure to use soy wax FLAKES (looks like you have the right kind, @Snickerhaus Studio), and that the flakes are shiny and hard at room temperature. 

    Thank you for pointing out that one can buy the wrong type.  Appreciate you responding here. 

  3. 40 minutes ago, Bill Kielb said:

    It is full, but again calculating how a panel is loaded is not simply adding the amperage’s on the breakers. Each load has intermittent usage.  All loads are calculated using their actual wattage with usage a factor, so not their breaker size. In reality you would move from your present 7500 watts (old kiln) to 10,000 or 11000 watts (theoretical new kiln), so prox. 4000 watt increase. There is a fallback where when firing the kiln, something else would not be used. Your dryer would be a good candidate it should be 4500 w (nominal). So your dryer would not be used for roughly 12 hours per firing.  I think there is a good chance that a new kiln feed would be fairly easy to run independently and leave the other circuits as wired. So the intent is not to scare you but make sure it gets done safely.

    If you can post a clear picture of the panel model number I can look up any tandem breaker (positional) requirements for it and get the document for your electrician. Quite a bit of this could have been done easier, less invasive and more appropriate for future expansion - just my opinion though.

     

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  4. Thank you all once again for your thorough input!  I am forwarding all to my husband who is currently at work.  He will get back to this discussion later.  To me, it seems like our current panel is already pushed to the limit?  May need to bring in a whole new line from the pole and drop down?  Please excuse my lack of knowledge on the correct wording.    Thank you for the complement on the set up. So much planning and work went into it, sadly without knowledge of kiln failure and having to replace wiring in the kiln.  Also, we didn’t know how 30 amps is now very limited.  I will post more detailed photos of our panel.  Don’t know if the marking is completely updated. The other electrical to the kilnhouse are two plugins and one light.   Coming in through the same as the 220 for the kiln.   I believe the line is at least 5” buried. 

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  5. 6 hours ago, neilestrick said:

    Higher amperage requires larger wires. If they ran conduit out to the kiln shed, you may be able to pull larger wires to accommodate the larger kiln. I would also double check on what they mean by not being able to do more because of the breaker box. If they mean the box doesn't have room for more breakers, that doesn't matter because you'll be replacing the old kiln breaker with a new one. If they mean you've used up all the available amperage, it may be that you can fire the kiln, but you can't run the clothes dryer or AC at the same time or something like that. How big is the main box- 100 amps or 200 amps?

    150 amps

  6. Thank you everyone for your speedy response.  I shared with my husband and he asked that I thank all of you for your input.  The current kiln is outside our home in what I call a kilnhouse.  Purposely built to house a kiln.  The wiring is buried and limited to go any more than 30 amps.  We were told by an electrician due to what we have in our breaker box.  My current kiln is working, but was bought many years ago used.  Was told it was from a school.  I don’t know if they had changed the wiring but I am sure the wiring will have to be changed out soon.  It is a manual cone sitter. Will continue to decide what is best to do going forward.  I am not an expert when it comes to electricity.  I am assuming the wire used to go out to the kiln can’t go any higher even if we had more power from the house and breaker box.  

  7. Hello all,

    My wife currently uses an older Paragon kiln and looking at purchasing a different one in better shape. The one we are looking at is a 50 amp while the current one is a 30.  Both are close to the same age and have the P-10 kiln setter.  Question is are there multiple ways to wire these kilns so that they can run either or?  There is not enough space in our fuse panel to go to a 50 amp.  A new one would be nice but the 30 amp ones are really small.  Any advice is much appreciated.

    Thanks in advance.

    Wiring Misfit

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