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F Crowley

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  1. Thanks so much. Will definitely have to do some digging around there
  2. Thanks so much. Will definitely look into this!
  3. Thank you all for your replies thus far. It is becoming more and more clear to me as this topic develops that I didn't know how much I didn't know about firing!!! Does anyone know of any good theory based book out there that I could get which would help me gain a better understanding of the firing process as a whole?
  4. Thank you so much for this reply, it really makes such easy understanding of what you are talking about. Had just assumed that once I was firing within the glaze range stated by the manufacturer that it would be alright but may this not be the case?
  5. Thank you so much for your reply. It definitely made things a bit clearer for me as I have no idea about cones... Had always assumed there was just a temperature they were to reach and that was that, I hadn't realised the ramp speed changes the cone! Will definitely acquire some cones and do tests!
  6. Thanks again for your response. I did reach out to the kiln manufacturer and they explained what the electrician was to test for. When I passed on the results of his tests they said it was all as it should be thankfully. Unfortunately I live remotely and having enquired about getting a kiln technician come to visit I found out the cost would be €200 just to get one here before any work is done! Hoping because of this that I will be able to resolve the issue with a better firing schedule instead of having to do this...
  7. Hi Sorce, Thanks for your reply. I had also assumed elements so was surprised when the electrician said they were in good order... I had even bought replacements ready to have them changed out but he said to hold off! Think I will get back in touch and have new ones fitted anyway though. I use Terracolour High Fire Powder Glazes. Knowing nothing about the chemistry behind glaze making etc I am very hesitant about making my own... All the glazes I use have the same range however so it isn't an issue with picking a temperature to fire to.
  8. Hi Min, Thanks for your reply. I hadnt actually considered this at all. I do both functional and non functional work, so will definitely carry out an absorption test with the clay bodies. I had assumed once I was within their firing range it would be safe and gave it no more thought until now. Can I ask what you mean by immature glazes? Thanks
  9. Hi Neil, Thank you so much for your response! My kiln only allows for two ramps. Would you suggest keeping the ramp at 150oC per hour until the last 100oC and then slowing the last hour to 60oC per hour? Or would this make the firing too fast?
  10. Hi Bill, Thank you so much for your informative response, I really appreciate it. Admittedly I am not great at online research so will give another look through forums here to see if I come across more information that is helpful. I have never actually worked in cones, just in manually setting programmes in degrees Celsius. Looking at a cone table I would imagine cone 5 is the closest to what I aim for. Must do some research into them and will contact my pottery suppliers on Monday to order some cones to use in a firing. The glazes I use fire between 1180oC and 1250oC and the clay bodies I use all fall within that range too. That is why I fire to 1200oC as a middle temperature within that range, thinking it would be a good temperature to go for. I actually don't know why the soak is in my schedules other than the fact that my friend said to have one to be honest... Would you advise to get rid of it altogether? I will definitely look up the genesis manual by Bartlet controls and see what it has to offer. Thanks again for the help!
  11. Hi, Hope this hasn't been asked anywhere else and I'm repeating a question but I've scoured the internet and can't find much of help... Even though I have studied ceramics at 2 levels, during neither course were we taught about firing schedules... Over the past few years I've been using and tweaking schedules given to me by an amateur potter friend but they aren't cutting it anymore. I've recently been approached by 2 shops/galleries who want to sell my work but glaze faults are making it difficult for me to be happy with results as I can't seem to avoid miniature pinholing and am wondering if the firing schedule is the problem. I have a nabertherm top loader, and the control panel allows 5 time segments. 1. Delay 2. Ramp One 3. Ramp Two 4. Soak 5. Cooling. Currently I fire 80oc an hour for 10 hours, 100oC for 2 hours (reaching 1000oC), 15minute soak, and finish for bisque. For glost I use 150oC an hour for 5 hours, 100oC an hour for 4.5 hours (reaching 1200oC), 15min soak, and off. From reading around online I now wonder if these schedules may be too fast? Or may it be something as simple as needing elements replaced? (Although an electrician has tested them and said they're in good working order). Any advice or suggested schedules would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. P.S. I have tried multiple clay bodies so don't believe that clay is an issue. I also use an extraction fan so I don't think it is a buildup of gases within the kiln chamber either. The glazes I use are commercial and mixed by the manufacturers instructions including sieving before use.
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