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  1. Like
    tanvi504 reacted to Sorcery in Lehman Glaze Mixer GS20C   
    I think a lot of it also has to do with the quality of the materials to begin with, then Further, what they do when they interact. I've noticed I don't have to sift many glazes.
     Glad you decided to go DIY! If you can make the glaze...! You can make the mixer!
    I have been mixing my clays with a roll of half inch chicken fence, it offers a lot of shear. I almost bought a drink mixer for glazes the other day, but I put it back!  
  2. Like
    tanvi504 reacted to Hulk in Lehman Glaze Mixer GS20C   
    For blunging clay, using this - it works great! Got it for a mixing sanded grout  - tile project, years ago.
    Start with at least a half inch drill - even then, careful not to overheat your nice drill motor.

    Kraft tool DC310
  3. Like
    tanvi504 got a reaction from Hulk in Lehman Glaze Mixer GS20C   
    @Mark C. that is so generous. Thank you Mark. I wouldve absolutely taken you up on that offer but Im in Vancouver Canada. 
    I see your point though and Ive decided against the lehman equipment. I can’t seem to wrap my head around not having to sieve a glaze. I make my own - I used to buy coyote but Ive managed to make my own for less than half the price.  Border closures forced me to finally figure out a good recipe. 
    I need to dip my pots so have to figure out a way to get the drill out of the way to do that. But Im going to go down the DIY route I think. Hopefully I manage !
  4. Like
    tanvi504 reacted to Mark C. in Lehman Glaze Mixer GS20C   
    A slip mixer is the same thing (leman is a slip equipment co.) A clamp on mixer is pretty easy to come by. I have one on a 30 gallon barrel which I used to make slip.
    If you are handy a conversion is easy.A harbor freight 1/2 inch drill with a long stainless mixer shaft with blades will do fine.
    My question is are you dipping or spraying the glaze? If dipping the mixer shaft needs to be swung away.If you are sprying then any container will do.
    Is your galze premed?Like I have a ton of glaze made for me at Laguna  every 5 years (my recipe) and its shipped in 50# bags. I only have to add water and sieve
    If you are making from scratch large open barrel is best.The onlt differance I see with a barrel and the leman is the mixer top in middle of bucket(will this be in your way to glaze your items???You can power mix witha 1/2 inch drill 25 gallons in less that 5 minutes after that mixing its takes onlt a minute or two per use.
    As far a sieving glaze. It only takes once with one batch to ruin all the work. I have learned this the hard way.Since that kiln load all glazes are sieved.Always as its not worth the risk.
    I sieve my premade glaze as well. Being thorough in ceramics is always best. If it can bite you sooner or later it will.
  5. Like
    tanvi504 reacted to liambesaw in Lehman Glaze Mixer GS20C   
    Or just buy a drill press and take the table off of it.
  6. Like
    tanvi504 reacted to neilestrick in Lehman Glaze Mixer GS20C   
    If you're handy, figuring out how to mount a drill with a mixing shaft to the wall or a stand should be pretty simple.
  7. Like
    tanvi504 reacted to liambesaw in Lehman Glaze Mixer GS20C   
    It's probably going to be cheaper to buy a wall mixer and a garbage can on wheels to mix the glaze.  This is what we used in college.  Just wheel the garbage can under the mixer and lower the paddle into the can and letter rip.  A glaze machine sounds cool if you have the money to put out, otherwise the wall mounted mixer works really good.  
  8. Like
    tanvi504 reacted to spadefootclay in Looking for a good white porcelain in Canada   
    Tuckers (Richmond Hill, Ontario) makes a number of Cone 6 porcelains, I use their Bright White.
  9. Like
    tanvi504 reacted to liambesaw in Layering glazes   
    Looks like a white glaze that contains titanium and zinc over the entire cup, and another glaze brushed around the top.  The color sort of looks like a nickel blue/grey.
    Just a shot in the dark since we know nothing except what the photo looks like
  10. Like
    tanvi504 reacted to Min in Crystal glaze adjustments   
    @tanvi504, for someone who is obviously interested in how glazes work it might be worth taking the time to start exploring the chemistry further. It's a huge help to understand the chemistry if you are interested in altering recipes like this. This is a fairly straightforward recipe to practice with, I'ld suggest giving it a try, see what you come up with.
    Regarding subbing the soda ash in the glaze you posted, Ginger's Crystal Factory, click on the soda ash in the recipe on the Glazy page. It will take you to a page that describes soda ash. You can see that it supplies sodium. So now look up what materials we use that supply sodium that are more stable than soda ash. Ferro frit 3110 is one that I think of. Getting back to Glazy, try substituting Ferro 3110 for the soda ash and look at what happens to the chemistry. Keep adding Ferro 3110 until the sodium level is the same as in the original recipe. Look at the UMF (unity molecular formula) chart on the Glazy recipe page.  
    Calcium amount will be slightly higher as the frit supplies some of that, drop what is suppling calcium (wollastonite) so the calcium is the same. Lastly, notice that the silica amount will have gone up since the frit supplies a fair bit of that too. To balance the recipe you would then lower the silica amount so the chemistry matches the original recipe. Finally re-total the recipe to 100 and you're done. At this point you could then test out the altered recipe and see how it does on actual pots.
  11. Like
    tanvi504 reacted to Min in Seattle Pottery Supply - Midnight Black Clay   
    I was just trying to point out in my post above with the charts that G2926B and Wollastonite clear are basically the same glaze, the latter having less silica and alumina. Looking at the formula rather than the recipe you can see this. 
    I like Bill's idea of adding more gerstley to his recipe, definitely room for more in the formula. The last recipe I posted is a reworked version of Toms Wollastonite Clear (B. Krull) recipe using frit instead of gerstley.
  12. Like
    tanvi504 reacted to Hulk in Seattle Pottery Supply - Midnight Black Clay   
    Hi again Tanvi! Thanks for posting back with your progress - looks bubbly; my opinion, would want to see the bubbles "healed over" such that there's no crater down to the clay body.
    I'll get some pics up of aforementioned Wollastonite Clear (Bethany Krull) over Aardvark Clay's mid fire black stoneware this afternoon...
  13. Like
    tanvi504 got a reaction from Hulk in Seattle Pottery Supply - Midnight Black Clay   
    Just wanted to post my results here and see what everyone thinks. The smaller test tiles in the images are the new ones (slow fired bisque to cone 04 and glaze to cone 5) and the bigger ones are my old test tiles with a regular bisque to cone 06. There is only a very small improvement if any. The last test tile is the new recipe I tried posted by @Bill Kielb  While it appears to be the best one in terms of microbubbles, it has given a kind of brownish tint. Im not sure if any of these glazes would work for food safety (liner inside mugs).  Thoughts? 

  14. Like
    tanvi504 got a reaction from Hulk in Seattle Pottery Supply - Midnight Black Clay   
    oh looks like I missed a lot here in a day ! the clay is a deep red in its raw form (with a lot of black settlement when wet which im guessing is the manganese)
    @Min thank you for calling SPS and getting an answer for me ! too kind. I'll try the slow bisque program on the skutt to cone 04 and see what comes of it. Ill fire with my current glaze after that and see if it fires right. If not, I might buy the one from SPS that they claim works.  The kiln is in our studio but we leave the door and windows open when we fire and do it when we aren't around so no one has to breathe the toxic stuff.
    Thanks everyone for some great advice. Ill fire next week and post my findings here - in case anyone is interested. 
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