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tanvi504

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  1. Like
    tanvi504 reacted to spadefootclay in Looking for a good white porcelain in Canada   
    Tuckers (Richmond Hill, Ontario) makes a number of Cone 6 porcelains, I use their Bright White.
  2. Like
    tanvi504 reacted to liambesaw in Layering glazes   
    Looks like a white glaze that contains titanium and zinc over the entire cup, and another glaze brushed around the top.  The color sort of looks like a nickel blue/grey.
    Just a shot in the dark since we know nothing except what the photo looks like
  3. Like
    tanvi504 reacted to Min in Crystal glaze adjustments   
    @tanvi504, for someone who is obviously interested in how glazes work it might be worth taking the time to start exploring the chemistry further. It's a huge help to understand the chemistry if you are interested in altering recipes like this. This is a fairly straightforward recipe to practice with, I'ld suggest giving it a try, see what you come up with.
    Regarding subbing the soda ash in the glaze you posted, Ginger's Crystal Factory, click on the soda ash in the recipe on the Glazy page. It will take you to a page that describes soda ash. You can see that it supplies sodium. So now look up what materials we use that supply sodium that are more stable than soda ash. Ferro frit 3110 is one that I think of. Getting back to Glazy, try substituting Ferro 3110 for the soda ash and look at what happens to the chemistry. Keep adding Ferro 3110 until the sodium level is the same as in the original recipe. Look at the UMF (unity molecular formula) chart on the Glazy recipe page.  
    Calcium amount will be slightly higher as the frit supplies some of that, drop what is suppling calcium (wollastonite) so the calcium is the same. Lastly, notice that the silica amount will have gone up since the frit supplies a fair bit of that too. To balance the recipe you would then lower the silica amount so the chemistry matches the original recipe. Finally re-total the recipe to 100 and you're done. At this point you could then test out the altered recipe and see how it does on actual pots.
  4. Like
    tanvi504 reacted to Min in Seattle Pottery Supply - Midnight Black Clay   
    I was just trying to point out in my post above with the charts that G2926B and Wollastonite clear are basically the same glaze, the latter having less silica and alumina. Looking at the formula rather than the recipe you can see this. 
    I like Bill's idea of adding more gerstley to his recipe, definitely room for more in the formula. The last recipe I posted is a reworked version of Toms Wollastonite Clear (B. Krull) recipe using frit instead of gerstley.
  5. Like
    tanvi504 reacted to Hulk in Seattle Pottery Supply - Midnight Black Clay   
    Hi again Tanvi! Thanks for posting back with your progress - looks bubbly; my opinion, would want to see the bubbles "healed over" such that there's no crater down to the clay body.
    I'll get some pics up of aforementioned Wollastonite Clear (Bethany Krull) over Aardvark Clay's mid fire black stoneware this afternoon...
  6. Like
    tanvi504 got a reaction from Hulk in Seattle Pottery Supply - Midnight Black Clay   
    Just wanted to post my results here and see what everyone thinks. The smaller test tiles in the images are the new ones (slow fired bisque to cone 04 and glaze to cone 5) and the bigger ones are my old test tiles with a regular bisque to cone 06. There is only a very small improvement if any. The last test tile is the new recipe I tried posted by @Bill Kielb  While it appears to be the best one in terms of microbubbles, it has given a kind of brownish tint. Im not sure if any of these glazes would work for food safety (liner inside mugs).  Thoughts? 




  7. Like
    tanvi504 got a reaction from Hulk in Seattle Pottery Supply - Midnight Black Clay   
    oh looks like I missed a lot here in a day ! the clay is a deep red in its raw form (with a lot of black settlement when wet which im guessing is the manganese)
    @Min thank you for calling SPS and getting an answer for me ! too kind. I'll try the slow bisque program on the skutt to cone 04 and see what comes of it. Ill fire with my current glaze after that and see if it fires right. If not, I might buy the one from SPS that they claim works.  The kiln is in our studio but we leave the door and windows open when we fire and do it when we aren't around so no one has to breathe the toxic stuff.
    Thanks everyone for some great advice. Ill fire next week and post my findings here - in case anyone is interested. 
     
     
  8. Like
    tanvi504 reacted to StudioLily in About Duncan Gold Lustres   
    Many thanks for your comments!
    I'll definitely test them like John suggested. Now back to the creative mind's infinite loop:
     
    This is awesome
    This is tricky
    This is
    I am
    This might work
    This is awesome
  9. Like
    tanvi504 reacted to neilestrick in Kiln Setup - L&l Easy Fire   
    That kiln does not have the spring hinges. It doesn't need them since it's so small. You do need to make sure that the kiln is not rocking on the stand. Put sheet metal shims under the feet of the stand as needed to get it sitting evenly on all feet. Open the control panel and make sure all the connections are still tight. Make sure all the elements are seated into the holders, especially at the corners. Then you're ready to fire.
  10. Like
    tanvi504 reacted to LeeU in Kiln Setup - L&l Easy Fire   
    You will love this kiln, and the ease of programmng...I have a larger one and it just floats my boat to happy places. (and thanks Neil for your help along the way)
  11. Like
    tanvi504 got a reaction from Tanglewood in Why Is This Happening?   
    Hi everyone. So I tried some of the things that you guys suggested and I did manage to resolve the problem somewhat. Looks like it was a combination of trapping an air bubble at the bottom while smacking and also squeezing too hard at the bottom while coning up. Im still not getting it perfectly centered but its a lot better - and there was no knot at the bottom like my images - so thats good ! 
    thanks for helping everyone. I love how helpful this community is !
  12. Like
    tanvi504 got a reaction from Pres in Why Is This Happening?   
    Hi everyone. So I tried some of the things that you guys suggested and I did manage to resolve the problem somewhat. Looks like it was a combination of trapping an air bubble at the bottom while smacking and also squeezing too hard at the bottom while coning up. Im still not getting it perfectly centered but its a lot better - and there was no knot at the bottom like my images - so thats good ! 
    thanks for helping everyone. I love how helpful this community is !
  13. Like
    tanvi504 reacted to neilestrick in Why Is This Happening?   
    Make sure you have a nice round ball when you smack it onto the wheel, so it collapses outward. You're trapping an air bubble under the clay.
  14. Like
    tanvi504 reacted to Pugaboo in Novice Firing Question   
    Tanvi504 - welcome to the forum.
     
    There are a few issues with your plan and a few ways of getting around them.
     
    Do NOT bisque fire your cone 5 clay to cone 5, your clay will be fully vitrified at that point and it will be impossible to get the white glaze to stick to it. Most Underglazes will remain dull if not covered in a clear glaze and some will burn out at cone 5 if not covered with a clear glaze.
     
    Now for suggestions on how to get you where you want to go...
    1) Paint your bone dry piece with a white underglaze
    2) Paint your design work on using your underglazes
    3) Bisque fire to cone 04
    4) Glaze your piece with Amaco HF-9. This is a Zinc free clear that doesn't affect and cause strange things to happen with your underglaze colors. Regular clears can at time do so.
    5) Fire your glazed piece to cone 5
     
    Alternative suggestion...
    1) bisque fire your piece to cone 04
    2) glaze your piece with the white you have chosen
    3) use Mayco Stroke n Coat to paint your design. This line of glazes turn glossy at cone 5. This will not work if your white glaze runs AT ALL. If it does it will cause your design work to move as well and possibly ruin it.
    4) fire your glazed and painted piece to cone 5
     
    Now I highly recommend making a couple of test pieces and try out both ways to see what turns out best. I hope this helps and good luck let us know how it turns out.
     
    T
  15. Like
    tanvi504 got a reaction from curt in Narrowed It Down To A Couple Wheels?   
    I would like to reiterate what Curt said. Even though you might not throw large pieces, keep in mind the torque while centering. I (as a newbie) bought a Shimpo RK 55 that has a centering capacity of 25 lbs thinking it would be a long long time before I throw pieces larger than that. But it slows down when I try to center even 2 lbs. The reason is torque and the 1/8 HP motor. Make sure whatever you buy has a motor of atleast 1/4 HP if not 1/2 or 1. 
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