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TribeCreations

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  1. Like
    TribeCreations reacted to Chilly in Cut, Spiral Bit Warped In Kiln   
    Have you tried firing the ^6 clay with ^06 glazes and fire to ^06?
     
    I use a speckled stoneware clay from Potclays in Stoke and fire it to both ^06 and ^6 and find it fits reasonably well for both temperatures.
  2. Like
    TribeCreations reacted to Jo-Ann in Knitting Bowls   
    Yarn bowls are my absolute favourite to make, I enjoy making each one different depending on my mood.
    I use stonewear clay, throw a little thicker and cut just before leather hard. I wrap the top in plastic and dry upside down. Sometimes I will use paper wedges to support the swirl part if I notice some sagging (the wedges just burn up in the kiln) 
    after I bisque I sand the swirl as I once used a yarn bowl that didn't have a perfectly smooth swirl and it snagged my yarn and really annoyed me while I was knitting lol so now i'm mindful of how smooth the swirl and inner bowl is. I use a small sharp blade and hand carve all of my cuts, which is why I cut just before leather hard, I find that while there is risk of sagging for me its easier to carve when the clay isn't so stiff. Yarn bowls are my biggest seller. I personally don't like, wont use and wont sell a warped bowl but that's just me being picky. Slow drying, a gentle hand when carving and paper wedges for support helps me avoid warping. 
     
    Here are a bunch of bowls i've made.


  3. Like
    TribeCreations reacted to Min in Knitting Bowls   
    I've used a few different clays for yarn bowls. I can't remember which one for the bowls in this thread but it would have been one of these two: Plainsman 370 http://plainsmanclays.com/index.php?menupath=8/29 or Glacier Porcelain http://www.clayartcenter.net/~clayar5/content/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_92_97&products_id=9576  they are pretty similar, ^6 smooth claybodies.
     
    Yup, I do get some warping. If I see any warping while they are drying they get tossed into the recycle bucket. Right now I would guess I have about 1 in 30 warp. Some do warp a bit in the glaze firing but not enough to worry about. I don't make the cat tail cut out very big and I think that really helps avoid warping.
     
    If I was having your problems I would make a couple test bowls, throw one with the walls a bit thicker than the other one, cut out the cat tail bit on a couple places in each bowl in different styles and fire them without bothering to underglaze or glaze them. See which cut out causes the least problems with warping and go from there. Also, if your glazes can go to ^5 1/2, which they should be able to, then I would consider slightly underfiring the y.bowls.
     
    Hope this helps and good luck! 
  4. Like
    TribeCreations got a reaction from Bunnybaer in Cut, Spiral Bit Warped In Kiln   
    Hello everyone.
     
    I'm new to this forum - read many interesting posts and gained a lot of tips from many of you. Really nice to know there's a place to reference things, and hopefully get some help now and again.
     
    I'm also quite new to pottery. I have a wheel and kiln, and I make stuff purely for the therapeutic affect.
     
    Anyway, back to the topic that I need help with.
     
    I started making yarn/wool holders: basically a pot with a spiral cut out, with some holes (have attached pics). I used professional white stoneware clay, with a cone 6 glaze. When I bisque fired them, I noticed that some of the spiral bits warped. So when I bisque fired the second lot, I left clay support bits in-between the spiral area to stop it from warping. This method worked - I just needed to grind those bits away before applying glaze (as illustrated in pic). 
     
    But sadly, after the glaze firing, all the spirals warped/collapsed. Does anybody know why? I thought that after the pots were bisque fired, they wouldn't warp again?
     
    Am I using the wrong clay? Or should the pots be higher with a narrower cut spiral section?
     
    Any input will be greatly appreciated.
     
    Thank you. 












  5. Like
    TribeCreations reacted to Min in Knitting Bowls   
    Super, thanks for sharing your technique Min. They look stunning.
     
    So what you're doing is almost like applying slip to greenware. Do you bisque fire the underglaze pot, and then glaze fire the clear on a second firing? Or do you do it all in the bisque firing?
     
    Sorry for asking so many questions ... I'm just curious to know.
     
     
    I brush the underglaze on dry greenware, yes it's like brushing slip on except I don't put it on until the pot is dry (or fairly dry). I didn't want to use slip for a couple reasons, firstly my clay is fussy about when I apply slip, it needs to be when the clay is fairly wet or the pots split. Secondly, I didn't want to use slip on this form since they like to warp even without adding extra risks of wet slip on leatherhard pots.  Spectrum underglazes are lovely to work with, they seem expensive but they can be diluted a fair bit, I don't measure but roughly 1:1 with water. 
     
    Yes, I bisque fire the pot then dip them in a clear glaze.
     
    Thanks for your kind words about my bowls.
  6. Like
    TribeCreations reacted to williamt in Knitting Bowls   
    I've made a bunch of these. I fire to cone 5, electric. I throw them thicker, for the same reasons mentioned above and usually leave the cutout in till the piece is almost dry. My biggest problem is getting in a hurry cleaning the cutout, and breaking off the "ear". After several failed attempts at repairing, I suggest don't try
     
    You also might try different shapes. I've done some that look tall, cone shape utensil holders that folks seem to like because their cat can't see the yarn ball spinning around inside!
     
    Oh, and check out my web page. There are a few of my yarn bowls there.
  7. Like
    TribeCreations reacted to Min in Knitting Bowls   
    Just unloaded a bunch this morning. I agree with throwing them thicker than usual, the ones in my attachment are from 2lb 12 oz of clay. I do the cut-outs straight after trimming the bowl and dry them upside down. Cut-outs done with a scalpel (one of my favorite tools), holes with drill bits. ^6, smooth white clay, shrinks 14= 15%
     
    Min


  8. Like
    TribeCreations reacted to neilestrick in Knitting Bowls   
    Once of my students makes a lot of yarn bowls, like dozens a month. The cutouts on hers hardly ever warp. She does 2 things to keep them stable The first is to leave the wall thicker than she normally would. The extra weight in the bowl also helps to keep it from moving around during use. She also doesn't remove the entire cutout right away. She leaves a small piece of the cutout area at the lip until it is nearly bone dry, to deep it from warping during drying. I think this also helps keep the stresses in the lip more or less consistent so it's less likely to move during firing, even if it didn't warp in drying. She cuts out that small section with a piece of a fine hacksaw blade when bone dry, them smooths it with water.
  9. Like
    TribeCreations reacted to bciskepottery in Knitting Bowls   
    Could you post a picture?  Two factors are working on this.  First, when you cut the channel for the yarn, you put a break in the side that allows it to relax (warp) during drying and firing.  Consider taking some gauze -- the roll type from the first aid kit -- and gently wrapping it around your bowl.  That could keep the flap created by the cut channel from warping on the outside.  Adjust as the pot goes from leatherhard to bone dry.  Also, do the cut later . . . after the sides have firmed up more than you are currently allowing them and use a really sharp knife so you don't put a lot of pressure on the walls . . . which could lead to them warping as the bowl dries.  Second, firing to cone 10 may make your clay (stoneware? porcelain?) a bit more susceptible to warping . . . given the structure of the wall has been weakened due to the cut channel.  The angle of the cut, the width of the cut, and many other factors can come into play here. 
     
    Why not use an earthenware/low fire clay and fire them to 05/04?  A yarn bowl does not need to be water-tight, so using a less vitreous clay body will not change the functionality of the bowl.  Plus, you will get less warping at a lower temperature. 
  10. Like
    TribeCreations reacted to Min in Cut, Spiral Bit Warped In Kiln   
    Hi, and welcome to the forums.
     
    That looks like a lot of weight being supported by not much clay at the top of the bowl. Yes, pots can look okay in the bisque and warp in the glaze firing for ^6. There is a fairly long thread on yarn bowls here http://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/4837-knitting-bowls/?hl=%2Bknitting+%2Bbowl
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