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VermontSarah

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  1. VermontSarah

    Will Re-Bisqueing Stop Bloating?

    Neil, that’s kind of a terrifying but interesting idea. I got a new pug mill a little over a year ago and I don’t wedge much. I probably do have air bubbles in my clay. One more factor to investigate—thank you!
  2. VermontSarah

    Will Re-Bisqueing Stop Bloating?

    Thanks, Curt. In my last 4 kilnloads, I have only risked one new pot at a time. I have new elements, new thermocouple, new clay and a new bisque fire schedule, but have yet to try a 2 hour hold at 800c. I’ll let you know if it works. Do you think extremely slow drying under plastic might be increasing the carbon matter in the clay or other factors that contribute to bloating?
  3. VermontSarah

    Will Re-Bisqueing Stop Bloating?

    Curt, I’ve been getting boating in all my kiln loads for over a year. I have about 60 pieces of bisque and wondering if I should rebisque with a 2 hour hold at 800c. I can’t tell from all this discussion if there is any hope of further outgasing during a rebisque. You said that the clay isn’t sealed during the bisque (“As an aside, while I mostly agree with timbo above, I think he is confusing sintering with vitrification. The sintering that occurs during a bisque firing does not seal up the clay body (unwanted metal pockets aside) - it only welds the very tips of clay particles together, which is what makes a bisque pot stiff and resonant, but definitely not sealed up. You know this because bisque ware is incredibly absorbant when dipped in glaze slop.) which makes me wonder if I could save some of my pots. I use Standard 365, file to cone 6. Thanks.
  4. VermontSarah

    Deflocculating an overly flocculated glaze

    Thanks, John. My batches are pretty large, and therefore old, and I think they have changed over time. I have studied the John Britt video over and over and no amount of Darvan seems to help. Do you ever check your specific gravity? By the way, I spray everything too. I generally like to use glazes as thick as I can get them through the spray gun, because I single-fire and any extra water is hard on the raw pots. I'll keep trying and let you know. Since you've used Steven Hill's glazes, let me ask you, do you have much experience with Hannah's Fake Blue Ash? I can rarely get it to fire blue. It over-crystalizes and I just get brown or bronze with maybe a little edge of cobalt. I've tried that glaze so many different ways I should have given up by now, but I'm stubborn. I took Steven's workshop last May in Independence. Sadly, he is not available by email for these questions.
  5. VermontSarah

    Glaze basics -- Deflocculating/Flocculating

    No Gherstley Borate. Thanks.
  6. VermontSarah

    Glaze basics -- Deflocculating/Flocculating

    oops. I think I meant to say I have over-flocculated glazes, not deflocculated glazes.
  7. I need help. I am pretty sure I have overly flocculated glazes because they don't settle, look like gel, don't dry on a test piece of bisque, and have a lot of lithium and strontium in them. I've tested the specifc gravity and it is quite low meaning I'm sure I've added too much water to try to un-gel them at some point. I'm leaving them open to evaporate out some water now. The glazes are Steven Hill Water Color Green and Water Color Blue. I also have the same problem with Wright's Water Blue which I think has some similar ingredients. The problem is, no amount of Darvan 7 seems to help. That stuff gets expensive too. I have some fairly large batches so I don't want to throw them out, and plus, if I start over I'm afraid I'll have the same problem over time. In the future I will make much small batches. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
  8. VermontSarah

    Glaze basics -- Deflocculating/Flocculating

    I need help. I am pretty sure I have deflocculated glazes because they don't settle, look like gel, don't dry on a test piece of bisque, and have a lot of lithium and strontium in them. I've tested the specifc gravity and it is quite low meaning I'm sure I've added too much water to try to un-gel them at some point. I'm leaving them open to evaporate out some water now. The glazes are Steven Hill Water Color Green and Water Color Blue. I also have the same problem with Wright's Water Blue which I think has some similar ingredients. The problem is, no amount of Darvan 7 seems to help. That stuff gets expensive too. I have some fairly large batches so I don't want to throw them out, and plus, if I start over I'm afraid I'll have the same problem over time. In the future I will make much small batches. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
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