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EarthnElements

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About EarthnElements

  • Rank
    Newbie

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  • Website URL
    http://www.earthnelements.com

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  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Wisconsin
  1. Bear with me, here come the questions. 1.) Using a cookie cutter, I tried to stamp out a few shapes. Nothing imprinted, just basic shapes. The clay sticks to the cutter, and when the clay is pushed out, it leaves finger prints and imprints. Just a part of life? What if I just leave the clay in the cutter for a few days? 2.) The clay seems a bit sticky at times, and although it doesn't necessarily 'stick' to the cotton duck, it does have to be peeled off. Should I use alternate material for the rolling / clay forming surface, or do I just need to work with the clay, and it will develop less stickiness as it begins to lose water and dry? 3.) Is the use of a bowl of water to dip my fingers into a no-no while forming? 4.) Drying the clay. (Insert heavy sigh) I'll go ahead and just spit this out, however silly I may sound. Do I simply allow the project to air dry by itself for about a week, or must I regulate the drying in some way? Right now, none of my projects will be over 1/4" thick. I've seen mention of using sheetrock for drying tiles. Is this necessary, or just a way to decrease drying time? And finally... 5.) What is the purpose of underglaze? I've been trying to find discussion about one time firing for small, thin clay discs. Some people respond as though I've committed a crime, some say 'Go for it' and yet others have suggested I use an underglaze, fire, glaze, then fire again, which defeats the one time firing. I'm not lazy, I just thought that something so small could be fired and glazed one time, assuming the clay was completely dry. If you are still reading at this point, I truly appreciate your assistance. In person, I am not as forward, so please don't think poorly of my 'jumping right in with questions' approach. I'm just very anxious to get started, as I know it will take years to learn. Thank you for allowing me to join this great site! Karen Marie I use WD-40 on cookie cutters or whatever I have to make impressions for no-stick. One word of warning is that if you want to attach any clay to the piece that you have cut and now has some of the oily residue from the cutter, it will not stick properly. But a good way to go for cutouts. Also if you just let the clay firm up a little bit before cutting you will have an easier time getting it to release. Have fun!
  2. Introduction

    I just found this site and forums last night, good to "meet you" everyone. My name is Kathi my biz name is Earth N Elements Pottery and I started working with clay about 5 years ago. Love it. I work part time outside the home and spend as much of my remaining time as possible making pottery. I work in midrange temps (cone 5-6), and love making and testing new glazes. Every time we open the kiln after a glaze fire is like christmas isn't it? Bisque, eh, not so exciting. I sell in local shops, wholesale to galleries in tourist areas, do some art fairs (although I find it physically exhausting to do so as I get older) and sell online. For those of you wishing to sell online but not wanting to have to set up your own website, you may want to try etsy. I have sold a lot of pieces through etsy and it is a good time of year to start there, not to mention really quite inexpensive.
  3. Copper Carb

    Here is one of my favorites - best on light body/white clays. Not food safe, use a different glaze for a liner. MY TURQUOISE MATTE 15 Strontium Carb 60 Custar Feldspar 20 Dolomite 5 EPK 3 Copper Carb 1 Bentonite
  4. Copper Carb

    Yes a typo I just corrected. Sorry about that Also I had the 1/2 batch amounts noted to the right of the chemicals, forgot to delete that out before posting. I have a couple of other nice turquoise glazes in matte finishes very similar if you are interested in trying. Cone 6 oxidation
  5. Copper Carb

    I use Weathered Bronze Green on many items - it is not a food safe glaze - don't use on functional wares. (Most any matte turquoise should not be considered food safe unless tested in a lab for leaching) It needs to be thick in order to get the green, where thin it will be black. I mix it so that it is as thick as split pea soup, seriously. ) WEATHERED COPPER BRONZE GREEN 60 Neph 20 Strontium 10 Ball Clay 9 Flint 5 Copper 1 Lithium 5 Titanium add Cmc for brushing I can point you in the direction of some of my items that have been glazed with it if you like, I tend to use it most frequently layered over a few other glazes to vary the tone of the green. Also reducing the amount of copper carb will lean you more towards turquoise. PS - your copper carb or any "old" oxides are fine unless they have become contaminated with some foreign materials, there is no shelf life so to speak. you can see some in my etsy shop for examples www.earthnelements.com
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