Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About samnus

  • Rank
  • Birthday December 22

Profile Information

  • Gender
  1. Thanks for the input and variety of ways to approach signing a pot...I guess I was making it harder than it needed to be...by scribing, sanding, filling with underglaze and then wiping off the excess ;o(
  2. I'm interested in the many ways that potters use to sign their pots...on greenware or bisqueware, carving name & filling with oxides or stains, just brush signing...and the details. Also, whether or not to include the date. Thanks
  3. Thanks for the reminder about YouTube...when I start watching these I find myself spending hours and hours...they're addicting ;o) I can see where there are many different ways...but like you say, you have to find what works best for you...so I will give it a try and see what happens.
  4. sorry for being so unclear...for cylinders, tall pots. How different for a bowl?
  5. small pot = 2 lbs and large pot = 10 lbs
  6. How would you open clay for a large pot in comparison to opening clay for a much smaller pot?
  7. Marcia, I think your suggestion may be the answer...I changed from porcelain, where everything was OK, to a new clay, which I thought I had softened up...but obviously not enough. I guess I need to do some cutting and slamming together...I only threw down the bag of clay on each of its corners. Thx for all of the inputs...you are all so willing to help...we really appreciate that!!
  8. I have been throwing for years and I noticed just lately that pot after pot has had one area on the top edge that is uneven and there is also one side of the pot with an uneven thickness in the wall. How does something like that just happen?
  9. Cracks In Foot Ring

    100% success...no "S / Y" cracks in the bottom of the 3 bowls ;o) Thx for reminding me to go back to basics...trimming the outside to match the inside! Now I just need to remember that the next time I do some trimming. Thx again!!!
  10. Cracks In Foot Ring

    Thanks Neil and Norm for taking the time to help me out! I trimmed those 3 pots yesterday so will see if trying to do a better job at matching the exterior curve to the interior curve made a difference.
  11. Cracks In Foot Ring

    Probably one area I could improve on is to make sure I trim the interior of the foot rim to match the interior curve of the pot...thx for the reminder! I've got 3 pots to trim today so will see how well I do at following your advice ;o) I'm calling the S cracks to be Y cracks because there is an extra leg to the crack ;o(
  12. Cracks In Foot Ring

    Let me add a few more details...most of the cracks are in unfired greenware, I use no more than 2 lbs of porcelain per pot, I dry everything under plastic, and turn over to dry when the rim can support the weight. And yes, the cracks do get larger after being fired!
  13. The ‘Y’ crack in the foot ring of my pots is rearing its ugly head! I seem to almost always have a pot or two in each kiln load with that crack…either before or after the bisque firing, but now I’m having many more. I’m wondering what are all of the causes…it only happens within the foot ring, where I have trimmed. I’m familiar with compression, especially when throwing off of the hump, but am thinking that thickness of bottom of pot and temp in the studio may have some effect. I throw off of the hump and as single pieces. My studio is 55 degrees when the heat is off and about 70 when the heat is on. I let my pots dry for at least a week before bisque firing and then do a 2 hr preheat just to make sure they are dry. I try to keep the thickness of the walls and bottom consistent, but using a needle tool to measure the bottom isn’t always the most accurate and the hole left by the tool seems to sometimes be a part of the crack, even though I attempt to cover it over. And is there any way to fix these cracks…or best to just use these pots as glaze tests?
  14. Spray Booth inside Studio

    Tom Coleman has a tutorial on building a water fall spray booth at this address: www.tomturnerporcelain.com/page031.htm these are reputed to get great results, but I believe that the booth here is already built, and just needs adjustment. Filtered booths remove a great amount of particles depending on the type of filter used. We have to remember that HEPA filters were commercialized in the 50's after being declassified by the government. Even then it took quite some time for them to get to the specs required today-99.97% of airborne particles 0.3 micrometers (µm) in diameter. In doing a lot of research about dry spray booths the solution seems to be an exhaust motor with at least 900 CFM's and some make-up air, tied to the same switch that turns on the fan. Hope to have that done within the next week or so. Thanks so much to everyone for your input...your desire to help was amazing!!
  15. Spray Booth inside Studio

    Is there such a thing as going too big in CFM's?