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Meridianfrost

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About Meridianfrost

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    Newbie

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Richmond, Virginia
  • Interests
    Pottery, science, metalurgy, writing, singing, songwriting, guitar, cabinetmaking, woodworking, particle physics, astronomy, cosmology, philosophy and a million other things, many of which I am as yet unaware.
  1. Hello everyone! I'm getting better and better at throwing clay, and I have a question about what clay bodies everyone uses to throw. I have been using Standard 213 cone 6 porcelain, and I can't help but notice that the clay is stiff, and doesn't stretch very well. Looking at some videos online, I have seen how elastic some of the clay seems. The video in the link below is what inspired me to start throwing in the first place. Look at how great the plasticity of that clay is! I have attached a picture of the box I threw last night. I rolled a slab for the top and rolled a texture mat into it. It is the first one I have attempted. Trimmed and chattered this morning. I'm getting really excited about my gradually improving abilities, and I want to expand my scope of projects. The box in the picture was made with the 213 from standard clay. Do any of you have any suggestions for a more plastic high-fire clay body? I realize that shrinkage and warpage is an issue with a more plastic clay, but I would really like to know your thoughts on the clay bodies you like. Thanks very much! You all have been very helpful!
  2. Hello! Well I am about ready to do another load of bisque, and i have an important question that I can't seem to find any information about. The clay body I used for my pots is cone 9-10, and all of the glaze that I have is cone 6. I am assuming that I need to use a glaze that is designed for cone 9 or 10, but I can't seem to find anything that tells me that is the case. Is it a general rule that the cone of the glaze should match the cone of the clay body? i know I that I could fire this clay to cone 6 with cone 6 glaze and be fine, but I want to fire it to cone 9, and I am afraid that the cone 6 glaze that I am going to use will not work. I'm sorry about the stupid question. Thanks for any advice you can give me! -Josh
  3. Glazing Cone 6 Pottery

    Thanks so much to everyone for their replies. There is a metal tab on the kill switch that, if adjusted too high, won't trip the kiln no matter what cone is in there. I do have the small adjusting disc and have adjusted it properly. The glaze firing to cone 6 went flawlessly, and the kiln turned off as it should. With the amount of pieces I had in the kiln, I'm sure it got up to at least cone 7 on the bisque fire. When I applied the glaze it just sat on the surface and didn't dry. I used a blow dryer after about an hour to dry the rest of the glaze for the final firing. I'm pretty confident that I did the second fire correctly and future firings will be much better. I was just curious about coating vitrified pottery with glaze and how it effects the general outcome of the firing. This glaze didn't look anything like it was supposed to look. I'm sure it's because none (or very little) of the glaze penetrated the vitrified clay body. I'm going to fire again in a couple of weeks and see how that goes. Thanks again everyone for your responses. They were really helpful. Trial and error!
  4. Glazing Cone 6 Pottery

    Hi there! I am new to the forum and new to pottery, and I have just completed my first pots in my first firing. I just bought a used Skutt is-1027 in great shape, and fired my first (small) batch. I placed an 06 cone in the kiln sitter and followed the manufacturers recommendations for firing the kiln. 2 hours on low, two hours on medium, and then high until cone is reached. I think I must have placed the cone incorrectly, or the sitter gauge was out of adjustment, because 3 hours in to my bisque ramp schedule at high temperature, it was still firing. I shut down the kiln and let it cool until the next day. When I opened the lid, the cone had been vaporized by the high heat (it's a cone 10 kiln). I think it goes without saying that I overtired the pottery. But I wanted to glaze it and see how it came out and the resulting cone 6 that I fired the kiln to only took about 4 hours to complete. The glaze turned out nothing like it was pictured to turn out. I used coyote blue purple, and the resulting glaze firing was light blue and white. Nothing like it is supposed to look. Is this because I was glazing vitrified pottery?
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