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Bioman

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About Bioman

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/07/1956

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Woodway Texas
  • Interests
    Furniture Building (Mission, Greene and Greene), Stained Glass, fused Glass, Pottery.

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  1. I agree with Corn Starch. Shellac is water based and will come off and wont protect paper over time unless reapplied.
  2. So I make sure I have this right. It is OK to put the materials to be calcined in either Green Ware or Bisque and fire to 04. The Bisque can then be used, after cleaning out residual powder, dipped in glaze and fired to glaze temperature with typically no negative effect. Correct?
  3. OK, was not aware I could put the powders into green-ware. I thought it needed to be Bisque. So hitting cone 04 wont be too high, I only ask as a post I read said be careful not to burn/brown the materials but did not specify at what temperature that would occur.
  4. I would only have the calcined materials in the kiln. Firing to around 1300 is useless for anything else, so no other Bisque would be in the kiln. Also SS is routinely used in glass kilns for slump molds at around that temperature and does the kiln bricks no damage at all.
  5. I need to calcine some materials, so i have a few how to questions. I was told to simply put the materials in a bisque bowel and fire them. Currently don't have any Bisque lying around. Can i use a Stainless Steel bowel instead? Also, I need to calcine EPK Kaolin and Alberta slip. Do they get the same or different temperatures to calcine?
  6. Good idea Mark. I have one in my woodworking ship with HEPA filters; it is a must if you build furniture. Given that i am going full time on the potter soon I might just expand this to my pottery area. If anyone does this I suggest washable spun Polyester filters. They are worth this higher initial outlay as they can be washed where some types cant.
  7. To date all of my Kiln wash has been commercial. Might be time to try some recipe people are using with good results.
  8. I was wondering if an idea I had would work? I get tired of scraping the kiln was off the bottom of the container. My experience is that ti goes hard after between putting on coats. If I were to put some Epson salts in would I would think this might keep the solution in suspension better. However I am also concerned that I might be creating a mess that would screw up my shelves or pottery. Anyone ever tried this, or is there a good way of keeping the wash from settling so quickly?
  9. As far as cleaning goes, I use an Orbital Sander with a vacuum cleaner. Very clean and relatively fast and easy method.
  10. So far I have not had any issues with my wares coming out of the kiln that could not be attributed to firing profiles which corrected pin-holing and such. Being new I was simply doing the glaze S.G. thing because I had read it was important and thought perhaps I am missing something. To date I have kept by glazes in buckets with Gamma seals (O-ringed), so any significant evaporation is not occurring due to leaky lids. I have a question. Does the very act of dipping bisque change the water/solids ratio over time or is it more an issue of evaporation due to storage that does this and or both?
  11. OK, so i found a measuring cup with ml marking. I weighed out 100 ml of liquid after zeroing as indicated. The reading I got was 126 gms. Most of my glazes are Mayco Dry forumals for dipping stoneware. The mixing directions which i would have followed are ; 1 lb to 16 oz of water. Would this result in a reading of 160 gms or 1.6 on a hydrometer or none of the above? PS, does adding more water raise or lower the number I would see?
  12. PS, straight water with this hydrometer measures 130.
  13. I don't currently have a graduated cylinder. The hydrometer I bought has so many scales it is confusing. There is a lower dual scale that reads 0 - 140 for temperatures and right next to this is one that reads 0 - 150 with no value. Higher up in the narrow portion of the cylinder is another scale that states it is for "heavy liquids" and reads 10 ( I think they mean 100) to 10. Any idea how to read one of these? I'll try to get a graduated, but for now would like to get going. The glaze is a Mayco dry glaze if that helps at all.
  14. I am new to using a hydrometer to measure S.G.. Is there a starting point reading I can use such as 50 and work from there? Or will this be one of those "it depends" answers:) As i did not have a hydrometer when I made up many glaze batches, I have no baseline to start from.
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