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  1. It has been a while but I was doing some research and found my own thread and thought I should give an update. I have been using the 60/40 clay body + sand and talc for a few firings. I have been having vitrification issues in the cooler regions of my kiln. I've got a line on some free minspar and am thinking of adding some spar. I'm thinking of starting at 10% and leaving the rest of the formula alone. Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated. Thanks for all the advice
  2. I have a olson style fast fire kiln. It is about 4 x 4 x 4. The roof is made from arch bricks. I have noticed the center gap in the arch is opening wider the more times I fire the kiln and I'm worried it is going to collapse. I have an angle iron frame with all thread connecting the four corners across the top. The two all thread pieces have a large spring on one end. So I guess I didn't get the all thread tight enough to begin with. I have covered the roof with a layer of ceramic fiber and cement/stucco so I would rather not tear that down. My question is could I gentle unload the arch using a rounded form and a car jack and then suck the walls back in perhaps with a come along? Any ideas would be appreciated. thanks Joseph
  3. Thanks guys. You're the best.
  4. I have an ACI Pyrometer kit. Is it possible to add a switch and hook a second thermocouple to the gauge? I realize the wire length is part of the calibration so I would get another with the same length and the switch will throw it off a hair. Perhaps there would be a way to compensate for this by changing the resistor on the back? thanks for the advice.
  5. Your Variations On Leach Clear

    Thanks for the feed back. I'm going to try out some variations on the rutile. I will mix up a test batch with the ochre and let you know how it comes out.
  6. Your Variations On Leach Clear

    Do you have a picture of your rutile iron variant?
  7. Your Variations On Leach Clear

    As a single firer I replaced the kaolin with ball clay. I have not had problems with it hard panning.
  8. I have been using the variants of leach clear that appear in the John Britt high fire glaze book. This is the base recipe 40 Custer Feldspar 30 Silica or Flint 20 whiting 10 EPK Kaolin Does anyone have recipes using this base they would like to share. The book includes a white using zircopax, a green with iron and a temmoku. I have been thinking of subbing yellow ocher for the EPK. thanks in advance for sharing
  9. I recognize that clay bodies are good but it really only takes about 20 to 30 minutes to mix the clay. And of course I have to wedge it but I wedge my bagged clay almost as much as this stuff. I've included a photo of the two samples. I guess I have more time on my hands than the average person. I also use a kick wheel like some backwards luddite.
  10. Neil stop drinking the haterade!
  11. I thought I should follow up on this thread and report on my findings. I made two bodies based on a 60/40 blend of hawthorne 40 and XX sagger + 2.5% pioneer talc. The first body I added 10% yellow builders sand the second I added 10% 16 mesh granite dust. The granite body shrank quite a bit more than the sand body and the granite melted on the surface leaving small dark spots(I thought it was quite pretty). The granite body had less water absorption but both were in the acceptable range for vitrified pottery. The sandy body did not explode when force dried in my oven the granite body did. They both were a bot difficult to trim well the granite was very hard to trim but the sandy body just comes out a little textured. Based on these findings I will say that it is possible to make a simple body that can deal with the rigors of green firing. The total cost for a 250 pound batch is about $80. This is dry weight. I purchased a 200 gallon plastic stock tank which I pour maybe 25 gallons in the bottom add the dry ingredients in layers and mix with a dry wall mixer attached to a hand drill. Age for a few weeks and it's ready to go.
  12. Massive Crack In Single Firing

    RE: thickness I have a problem with leaving to much meat at the bottom after opening. Hopefully something I'll work out in the next 70 I make. Thanks again for the advice!
  13. Massive Crack In Single Firing

    Thanks for the excellent advice! Where did you find this firing schedule? Is there a link to more info on Steven and his firing process? thanks
  14. Massive Crack In Single Firing

    Thanks for the schedule. I'm not sure if I can read it though. ramp 1 - 200F hr / 220 / hold 1 - 3 hours <- this means to hold below 220 for 1 - 3 hours? ramp 2 - 100F hr / 500 / 0 hold <- proceed at 100 per hour until 500? ramp 3 - 400F - 500F hr / 2100 / 60 minutes plus or minus as needed to get to ^6 <- after 500 go as fast as I can? I candled both batches for 33+ hours the first time with propane which mantained a high 100's temp the second time with wood where the temp swund from 150 to 200 mostly at 200. thanks
  15. Massive Crack In Single Firing

    I broke it in half. Here's a pic. This was typical of the walls of my last batch