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About StokedAboutWoodFiring

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  1. Buildin' a lil Raku Kiln

    Ok, awesome- Thank you! Any chance you have a link to that site still? That sounds like it would be very helpful! Also, do any of you either have, or have links to some nice wood-firey looking raku glazes. I'm really interested in crawling white glazes and brown and red flashing colors. I'm in Wayne Higby's handbuilding class right now, at school so he's given me a handful of his handcrafted raku recipe's but I'm still on the search!
  2. Buildin' a lil Raku Kiln

    I have 100-150 bricks of 2300 soft brick, and about 20-30 hard bricks. Will this be sufficient if I add the fiber blanket to the mix?
  3. Buildin' a lil Raku Kiln

    Hey guys, So I've come to realize I don't have enough bricks to acheive the wall thickness I need for a cone 10 salt kiln (that I was planning on building this summer). Because of this, I want to make a smaller raku kiln instead! This being said, in all of my research, I haven't found any that are made from 2300 IF bricks. Why is this? All of the ones I have seen have been made out of old barrels with fiber insulation blanket on the inside. Why are bricks not used more commonly for raku kilns? Can they be? I'm hoping to get to ^06 or ^05 in this little guy. Will a square set up (4.5 inch thick walls of 2300 brick with a layer of insulating blanket in the inside, held together with angle iron be sufficent to fire to 1800-1900 degrees? I'm still planning on building on a poured concrete slab, with cinder blocks on top of that, with a layer or two of hard brick on top of that.... then the kiln on top of the hard brick. Thanks, Ryan
  4. Where to find used wheels

    Craigslist. Search in all counties/areas within an hour or two. Borrowing a pick-up, and spending $40 on gas to go pick up an old un-used wheel beats dropping hand fulls of cash on new, shiny, plasticy, not dirty wheels any day.
  5. Problem Centering

    Yea, I'd say check for any issues with the bats either slipping while throwing or being uneven from the get go. When opening, I always imagine my inner (left) hand (or thumbs/fingers) applying 3/4 of the pressure, and then place the palm of my right hand on the outside to apply the last 1/4 of the pressure. The outter hand is simply in charge of holding the piece on center, and it is weighted on my thigh or hip so it is as strong/stable as can be. The only thing actually moving clay is my fingers on the inside. Like others said, go slower than you think necessary- make sure your finger tips are wet and you have your hand/arm in the most stable position possible. The motion of the wheel alone always keeps a piece on center, so you know that if your body motion is centered/slow and applies equal and constant pressure then your piece will remain perfectly centered throughout the throwing process. Those should be the only two factors that interfere with the forming of whatever clay you have on the wheel. In terms of making sure you have the clay centered before you open, I always shut my eyes and hold the "centered" mound lightly in my hands as the wheel spins at medium speed. I do this after I am visually satisfied with the shape of the mound, and when I truly think it's entirely on center. You'll be surprised how much easier it is to identify a wobble with your eyes closed! Best of luck! Ryan
  6. Hey guys, I'm a sophomore at Alfred University, and every spare second (outside of the 3+ hours of clay class I have a day) is spent in our ceramics facilities. This being said, I've become quite fond of the idea of making my own smallish Salt Kiln in the woods by my house this upcoming summer. I have access to firebrick (soft and hard), and have seen a few kilns built, and have access to looking and investigating the 40+ kilns here on campus, but I still have several questions. This kiln won't need to be too big, it will only fire work for me and a few friends from home occasionally. I was thinking around 28 square feet (3x3x4) interior space. I am going to dig and lay a 3 by 4 foot concrete foundation... then I was thinking about covering that with cinder blocks (I know to keep the holes running through them going horizontal to block any moisture from the ground.) I'm curious, how thick does the floor (of bricks) need to be? I was thinking 1 layer of soft brick, laying flag, with one layer of hard brick over it, would that be enough? Also, how thick do the walls/ceiling need to be? Should they all be hard brick on the interior and soft on the outer layer? I also have a single burner (like the one in the link I attached)... will that be enough to heat the kiln (with 28 feet of interior space) to 2300+ degrees? Burner Thanks for the help guys, I'm super excited about this. I'm sure I'll have tons of questions as I actually try to accomplish this project! :blink:src="http://ceramicartsdaily.org/community/public/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif"> -Ryan