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Whispering Grass

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About Whispering Grass

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    Newbie
  • Birthday May 10

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  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Ireland
  1. Refiring

    Pam - thanks for the tip.
  2. Refiring

    Lorraine since it's the inside of bowls that you want to reglaze you should be able to try it without worrying about a glaze mishap in your kiln. If your trying to save the bowls you need to test your new glaze over a test tile with the old glaze fired on it already. You might have had the original glaze to thin or mixed it wrong if you made it your self, you could try reglazing with the original glaze or making a new batch and see if it works any better. I would just have fun with it and try different glazes in the bowls, I don't consider myself a glaze guru somebody else may have a better idea. Denice (Wichita, KS) - thanks Denice - will go play again :-)
  3. Refiring

    Hello, I have fired some bisqueware black pots with a glaze that hadn't really taken ... to the extent that I wan't to retry firing these pots, adding another glaze on top of the one that disappeared. I am not sure whether I can refire items ? It is the interior of the bowl that I want to reglaze. The exterior of the bowl will be left unglazed. thanks in advance. Lorraine
  4. Raw Glazing

    thanks for that. I did check, and yes it does have .3%. Excuse my ignorance, not sure how that will affect the raw glazing process ? Lorraine
  5. Raw Glazing

    Hello, I am currently testing a glaze, with a view to using it as a raw glaze. It works well on my thrown stoneware bowls, however, keeps crawling (and previously blistering) on a black stoneware clay that I am using. I am making pinch pots with the black clay , and using this glaze on the inside (for the black clay). I have summarised below the glaze ingredients. If the % of ball clay was too low I am assuming that it would not have worked well on the stoneware. Is it the iron oxide content in the black clay that is causing problems, and if so can I do anything to counter act that. Any hints/tips on what I might be able to do in order to amend this glaze so that I can raw glaze my black pinch pots would be great!. Nephaline Syanite 47 Whiting 7 Dolamite 16 Standard Borax Frit 8 Ball Clay 22 I have an electric kiln, and fire to cone 6 (6 hours to 650 degrees centigrade, then full to 1220 degrees centigrade, then soak for 20 minutes, then natural cool). Its a lovely natural looking glaze on the stoneware, however, just isn't working on the black clay. Thanks in advance !
  6. Slips Not Producing Colour ...

    Many thanks Chris .. once again coming to my rescue ! :-) ... They were made up by the suppliers, so purchased pre made up ... will go and run under the tap now ... thanks again !
  7. Slips Not Producing Colour ...

    I have just fired bisque fired some clay tiles, where I had used slips of various bright colours ... scaup blue, intense orange etc ... I assumed after the bisque firing the colours would develop .. there are however still as I painted them on. Do the colours not develop until I glaze fire then ? Am confused / disappointed and not sure what I did wrong or indeed what I need to do in future to correct this ? thanks
  8. Is there an accepted or safe temperature when I can open the lid of my kiln to accelerate the cooling down termperature (ie 50degrees celcius ??) At present its taking 10-12 hours to get from 900 degrees C down to room temperature, or is this considered a no no ? thanks in advance
  9. Bisque Firing For The First Time

    Chris, many thanks for this. The temp quoted on my clay is 1220°C-1280°C
 - not sure what cone this should be fired to - is there a chart I need to refer to re cones temperatures ? Lorraine
  10. I have recently purchased a new electric kiln - 100l top loader - it has a pre programmed bisque firing program. My clay is stoneware, and has the following description - 1220°C-1280°C
This jewelof a clay will bring new value to your creations. A smooth white stoneware,with the addition of fine molochite makes an excellent throwing clay suitablefor both oxidising and reduction firing. 10% molochite. As I am self taught I am not sure how long i need to bisque fire for - is it rule of thumb to increase temperature of 100 degrees per hour, up to five hours, then to increase after that, so my firing should be 8 hours ? The description of the pre programmed bisque firing program in my user manual states the following : T1 650 Time 1 6:00 T2 900 Time 2 0:00 Tume 3 0:20 Time 4 0 This makes no sense to me though ? Any tips at all would be really welcome as the books that I have do not go into any detail as to how long I need to fire, and to what temperature.. Thanks in advance
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