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About spinningearthelements

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  1. I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to share.... I have had really great results with the Amaco Potter's Choice line. I teach HS Ceramics, and these are the "lowest maintenance" glazes I can find that consistently turn out with great results. AS to the questions about the metallic glazes, as someone else mentioned on here.... you do need GENEROUS coats. I teach my students to paint glaze by first showing them that one of the mistakes people make is in "drying off" their brushes. You've got to have a fair amount of glaze on your brush in order to get it on to your pot properly. I have had beautiful results with all 3 of the metallics from this line... palladium included. (Note: all of these are CL glazes... I require my students to wear gloves as a precautionary, and the palladium is not food safe.... they are only allowed to apply it to sculptural items.) Really can't stress enough how important it is to apply these babies with generous coats. Also, experiment with the clay bodies. Our "regular classroom clay" is Standard's #153 Buff Stoneware, and we fire to cone 5 at a slow glaze speed.... the glazes need time to mature and melt properly. If you are having pinhole problems, you can try a "soak" at the end of your firing. My distributor and (wonderful clay/glaze/kiln goddess friend) recommended a 10 minute soak at the end of the firing. Worked wonders! I don't recommend this with "runny" glazes, but it seemed to create some nice effects with the metallic glazes. We also use various other clay bodies by Standard.... you will notice quite a difference on the lighter/white bodies compared to the darker bodies. My students really enjoy experimenting with test tiles to see what layering glazes look like. Amaco has a great site that shows various combos of their PC line.... We've achieved many of the same results. HOpe this helps.... I know I'm late in adding my 2 cents. Hopefully you have all had happy results since your last posts! Dawn
  2. Raku Using Ferric Cloride

    Are you trying to do the ferric chloride over a raku glaze, or on the bare clay?
  3. Crushed Glass And Ceramics

    I saw this thread and thought I'd share some info, although I apologize for not having anything technical. We've (I teach HS ceramics) done decorative pieces with melted glass beads (the kind you typically see in flower vases). Since we're only firing to Cone 5, we're not getting a full melt and the glass is not thoroughly bonded with the pieces. I've found that the clear glass makes a nice crackle on forms with a medium to light colored glaze. I see some excellent advice above about testing to see how much the glass bonds with the glaze. For interesting FYI, look up Steven Forbes-deSoule's Raku work. He has melted stained glass at the top of some of his really rounded forms in a Raku fire. The temps of the firings he was doing in our workshop ranged from 1800 to 2000. ( : Happy experimenting!