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levoslashx

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About levoslashx

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    Bellingham, WA
  1. Leaving the outside unglazed isn't so much of a problem. Inside though you'd likely end up with difficulties cleaning. Bits and bobs of food and the like would make its way into those tiny nooks and crannys and you'd be hard pressed to get it out. You might try finding a glaze with a color that compliments the body. I've never done it myself, but you may be able to apply some terra sigillata to the interior and burnish it to create a more sanitary glaze-less surface, though you'd want to research that a bit more. Best of luck.
  2. We collect and use the rain water that runs off the roof of the studio in 5 gallon buckets. Not dead of a brain amoeba yet. I suppose it's possible, but I'd be more leary of a shopping cart handle.
  3. I'm a bit disappointed he stopped at one, I was hoping he'd go for the lot. Anyhow, this is going to direct a slew of folks to Ai Wei Wei to investigate his art/message. And perhaps he and his message will become more widely known among the hoi polloi instead of being confined to academia. He should give this fellow a high five. Maybe they could have a priceless artifact destruction party or somesuch.
  4. Some Pots

  5. Applying A Liner Glaze.

    If you're so inclined, after you apply the liner glaze, clean up drips and such with a sponge so you have a nice clean line around the rim. Then apply wax resist close to, but definitely not over, the edge of that glaze and down inside the mug a bit. Then dip top down into you're next glaze. It gives a nice delineation between the liner and outside glaze. It takes a bit longer this way, and you have to wait for the wax resist to dry, but it looks nice. -Levi
  6. Stuck Lids.....

    Well, as a final update: I found a method on an old clayart thread which suggested spritzing a bit of water into the lid seating, freezing, then hitting with a wooden implement to break the join free. This proved to be the most efficacious. The freezing, dousing in hot water up to the join method worked as well, but it was cold enough outside here to spritz and freeze most of the jars at the same time it was easier without the bucket of hot water. I lost six of twenty due to small bits of glaze breaking away, stuck to the lid. As fate would have it, those six were probably the best, but I'm still grateful for what I have. Norm: I've thought of firing the lids separately, but it seems that the lid would conform to any contour of the shelf so that when it was placed back on the jar it would wobble. I have a couple refires that I'll fire this way to check it out. Your other point is interesting as well. The using test tiles vs. using actual ware debate. It all boils down to impatience, I think. A person has an idea, and they want to see the idea come to fruition. So they cut the test tile step, or they fire an entire load of jars without testing the new kiln first. But after a person has been burned enough, or loses enough money from their mistakes, they learn to slow down a bit, and test.....hopefully.
  7. Stuck Lids.....

    Well, one down, nineteen to go! Got one lid to pop after a few freeze thaw, hot water bucket cycles. I've never been so happy to salvage one pot in my life. No glaze held it, just sticky bare porcelain. I'll throw some witness cones in there next time to get a a more accurate answer about the heat work. Onward and upward. -Levi
  8. Stuck Lids.....

    Thanks for the ideas. I'll give the freezing/hot water bath a go this afternoon. It is a porcelain I'm using. I think the problem is that I recently switched kilns. Where before I was using a kiln sitter, the new kiln is computer controlled. I think more heat work was done with the new kiln compared to the old, and this caused the fusion of the lids. Should have done a test firing that wasn't comprised of ALL jars. Thanks again. -Levi
  9. I recently fired a bevvy of jars for an upcoming show. I have fired jars before with this clay body and not had a problem, but this time, every lid has stuck. Every one. Had I been using even a smidgeon of sense I would have used alumina in the wax. However, sense was lacking the day I waxed, and now I have a bevvy of useless jars. I'm wondering if any of you gracious folks have any ideas or tips on how I might loose these lids. I've tried walloping with a rubber mallet, and whacking with a wooden handle. I've tried heating the seat and lid with a heat gun and torch, and heating them in an oven 400 degrees then dunking in cold water. All to no avail. I may be up a creek, but I thought I'd check here first Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks! -Levi
  10. 12 Inch Club

    Thanks! I've already fashioned myself a hickory rod for beating away the hordes of admirers as I leave my house tomorrow.
  11. 12 Inch Club

    It ain't purdy, but as a bonus there's an opera synopsis in the background.
  12. For clay trimmings I flatten a clay box, then cut one of the short sides of it. Tape the top flaps together, and the bottom flaps will fold over each other when you wrap it around the wheel head.
  13. I work with a 1/2 horse TS with the removable splash pan and the SSX drive. It's pretty quiet, and the foot pedal is nice and sensitive. I guess I'd say it's smooth, if that means anything. The wheel head isn't too difficult to remove, and the splash pan holds a lotta mess. I've thrown 24 lbs on it and it handled it with ease. I have a little quarter circle of wood that I put on the corner of the splash pan to set my tools on, else they can get lost in the slop. In all I really like it. I can't speak for Shimpo's as I've never used one, but a Thomas Stuart is definitely a quality wheel.
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