Jump to content

wildfire

Members
  • Content count

    8
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About wildfire

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Mississippi
  1. Thank you all so much for your advice. Hopefully the next group of pots will be better!
  2. Thanks so much for your reply!Yes, the yarn bowls do have a cut in the rim. Just cutting a hole for the yarn would certainly simplify the process! The platters -- I roll out my slab with a slab roller. I reposition the slab every couple of rolls, turning it at right angles and sometimes flipping it over. I sometimes drop the ware board from about waist to chest height, sometimes just drop it onto a table a few times until it has "settled in". Should the slab be thicker than 1/4 inch? I guess dropping it once from waist high is preferable to 4 drops on a table... If I'm glazing at Cone 6, could I bisque hotter than 04? Lots of learning to do!
  3. Some of my pieces are warping during the glaze firing. I've made some yarn bowls that were pretty round before glaze firing, but afterward, the rim is a bit off. Also, my platters are rocking from side to side, rather than sitting nice and flat on the table. The platters were made from a slab that was about 1/4 inch thick, give or take a little. What's happening? I bisque to Cone 04 and the glaze firing is to Cone 6.
  4. Making a glaze chart

    Thanks for your input. I love your tile board, Neil!
  5. I currently use Amaco and Coyote cone 6 glazes. I'd like to make sample tiles of each glaze with a portion of the glazes overlapping, so I have really good examples of which glazes look the best together (and which ones I'll never want to put together again!). I've devised a system, but am still looking for a better way. My idea is to dip the top half of the tile in one color, the bottom in another, and then dip the top inch of the tile into the color that's on the bottom and bottom inch of the tile into the top color. I have assigned a number to each glaze and will write the number on the damp clay, and that way I'll also know which color is layered on top of which. Is there a simpler way to go about this? Am I trying to recreate the wheel?
  6. Wading will work, I have not tried using just clay, suppose if you bisque the clay then set the glazed pot on if might work, experiment first…Wading is my first and only choice. Edie. Thanks, Edie!
  7. Thanks, Mark. Do I bisque fire before use or just stick them on? I've also read about attaching wads w/ hot glue or Elmer's school glue - really?
  8. has not set their status

  9. I'm a beginning potter without much experience in glazing and glaze firing. I'm using a ^4-6 clay and ^6 glazes. I'm in the process of making flat Christmas ornaments and am wondering how to keep the glaze from dripping onto the kiln shelves. Tried stilts -- discovered that won't work when firing ^6. Have heard of wadding -- will that work in an electric kiln? What would happen if I formed wads made from the same clay as my pots (without adding the other wadding ingredients), bisque fired (or not?) and just sat the pots on those? Is there some other method I should use?
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.