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blacknapkins

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  1. I meant take a picture of the inside of the foot control for diagnosis Is there a possibility at all that the motor is shot which is the source of the short?
  2. What Brand of wheel and model is this-This would ba a good thing for us to know so we can help. Did the wheel ever work and how long has it been siting-and do you live where its humid and was whell outside??? You should use slow blow fuzes(find these at an electronics store not copper wire to short curcuit the fuze. Mark WELL. There's the hairy part. It's not going to be a known model, likely, to anyone. It's made by "G&L Industries" who basically was some smaller company, I gather, who welded up a small steel table and bolted a 3/4HP variable DC motor (which is why I say "like" a Brent). The bearings and belt drive on it are very nice! Anyway, I've been using it since feb but I'm a goof-around potter and am not putting it to work full-time. I work outside, yes, but under cover and it's not left overnight EVER. It was moved inside the other night by someone else and there was clay water all over the floor so I know it spilled. Maybe it spilled into the motor? It just doesn't look like it spilled into the motor (no obvious traces of clay water residue) and inside the foot pedal, where all the electronic parts are, indicates NO water damage that I can tell. The rheostat is a good starting point but until I can get the thing seen by my pops, which might take quite a while, I won't be able to determine this myself. I don't even have a multimeter, ridiculously. I've always decided that electrical stuff should be off limits to me so long as it's working on "hot" components because I'm a space-cadet creative type. I could snap a picture with my ipod I suppose(??)
  3. Yesterday I plugged in my wheel, flipped the foot pedal switch to on, and depressed the pedal. I got a flicker of sound and maybe some rotation of the wheel but only briefly. Checked wall plug, extension cord, etc everything fine. The power cord was old and looked awful so I decided to replace that before I did any troubleshooting. Cord replaced, still doesn't work. So I try hard-wiring through each of two fuses to see if the light goes on. Sure enough, one of the fuses is shot (ceramic fuse, 10a@250v) so I decide that I will put a little bit of copper wire in there that I am guestimating will burn out at a capacity somewhere near but below it's rating and use it for the time being at lower speeds, drawing less power through the temp fuse. But it pops the copper wire instantly, so I go up in "guage" and it pops that too. It looks like for some reason the fuse is being made to bear tremendous loads of electricity when it shouldn't and I have no idea why this is occurring. Does anyone have any thoughts on what the trouble might be? Everything inside the foot petal box (this is entirely where all the electronics are, as opposed to, say, a Brent) looks very clean and there's no indication of a simple short caused by something bent, broken, or worn out. Don't have a dime to my name and won't get a new one for a really long time if I don't fix this myself. Halp? Thanks
  4. Electricity

    I live in a house build in 1906. I would like to run a(n electric) 10 cubic foot kiln up to cone 8 in the little peripheral garage/shed/shop. The house has modern stoves washers, dryers, etc. If I ran a 210 line out from the washer and dryer would that be OK to run? Is this even something to worry about or CAN wiring heat up and cause fires? Thanks Eric
  5. Yes, it does have manganese in it and I also found some ancient (1994) pdf that said it was non-toxic on google. Sounds a little contradictory. I actually realized today (oops) that the label on the clas states clearly that it contains manganese and suggest wearing a respirator and gloves to minimize exposure. What safety precautions do you recommend? I think working on the wheel with a respirator and gloves would be absolutely horrible. In fact that's half the reason why I quit my job as a silversmith/goldsmith/casting shop.
  6. Years ago they told me that "04-6" etc indicates first the ideal bisque temperature and second the maturation temp. I always just thought this was a standard way to label a clay body but people on here have been confused by it so it must be a Seattle Pottery thing. Thanks everyone else for the information. It gives me a ballpark of expectation without having to worry with meltdown!! : ) I will post results in case anyone is interested : ) Actually, that would be a good way to label clay as long as it is made obvious that the 1st number is bisque and the 2nd is maturity. So, no, firing it to 6 will not melt it but just test it because, since it is a black clay, it may bloat at 6. Jim So, bloating sounds pretty obvious but I've never even heard of this before. I'm going to give them a ring tomorrow and find out if there's manganese in this and I will report back. Thanks guys. It feels great to be new to pottery. : )
  7. Years ago they told me that "04-6" etc indicates first the ideal bisque temperature and second the maturation temp. I always just thought this was a standard way to label a clay body but people on here have been confused by it so it must be a Seattle Pottery thing. Thanks everyone else for the information. It gives me a ballpark of expectation without having to worry with meltdown!! : ) I will post results in case anyone is interested : )
  8. Just got some of this stuff. I'm wondering what will happen to it if I fire it at cone 6. It's rated specifically as an 04-5 clay. Will it totally completely melt or just slouch a little or what? I only bought 25lbs and I have a 10cu/ft kiln that I won't fill up with just this. I would just be making mugs and teacups, pretty structurally sound cylinders without any big peripheral things that can't suppor tthemselves. THanks guys Eric PS I'm really new to this stuff. : D
  9. "Snow White 04-6" Bag-o-powder

    This is a highly complex subject with no absolute answers. For example most people can deal with copper leaching out of glazes into food with only slight taste changes.... but people with Wilson's disease will have real issues. Even uncontrolled iron in the diet can be an issue for some people. In the dry powdered form, certain gum additives used for making glaze applications harder in the raw state cause some people terrible alergic reactions. Lots to this business. (Get "Keeping Claywork Safe and Legal" by Mononna Rossol and "Artist Beware" by Dr. Michael Mcann.) The more obvious candidates for potential leaching "issues" would include lead compounds, barium compounds, lithium compounds, and arsenic compounds. Strontium is the usual subsitiute for barium compounds... but to my knowledge it is purely an assumption that it offers less potential toxicity....haven't seen any actual studies. I've been teaching ceramic materials chemistry at the college level for over 30 years...... and personally I'd just ditch the stuff. I wouldn't want to handle such an unknown material in the studio myself, and the time I'd have to put into figuring it out isn't worth it. Glaze materials are cheap. How do you know that it is actually even glaze? If it is simply a white powder.... it could be a bucket of barium carbonate, EPK, alumina hydrate, lithium carbonate, white lead, G-200 feldspar or any of countless other things. Could be garden pesticides. You have no idea if that name label on the bucket is for what is in there .... or for what USED to be in there. Not everyone is careful about such things. best, ..............john Good call, knocked out on round two. Conceding to pitch it. I don't even eat vegetable oils, idk what I'm talking about risking even having this stuff in my house. ; ) Thanks guys
  10. "Snow White 04-6" Bag-o-powder

    Cads are for low-fire reds and oranges right? So it would be ridiculous to have it in a "snow white" glaze correct? Lead is a possibility for fluxing, but I can test for it easily. What other toxic additives are in glazes other than metals and oxides used for colourants?
  11. "Snow White 04-6" Bag-o-powder

    Thanks to both of you guys. I'll tun a test on it and see if I like the look. If I like it, I'll use it for sculpture. I wonder if there's something I could react it with to find out if there's lead content... edit: looks like a number of commercial lead testing products are available. Would there be any other additives I need to look out for? etc https://www.google.com/search?q=lead+test&oq=lead+test&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
  12. Hello! I have just taken about 30 lbs of powder home from an estate sale labeled "Snow White 04-6". Is there any way of finding out who makes this glaze? I have checked the whole bucket and plastic bag inside and there isn't anything else written but the above. My questions is— Is this going to be food safe? I guess I need to ask first if lead or cadmium or anything else nasty are common constituents of a white glaze that fires at cone 6? What is the probability that this glaze is going to be safe? Second, maybe there is the possibility that this is some well-known formulation that can be safely IDd? Third, perhaps I could conduct some sort of test that will help me identify harmful compounds?? I would hate to waste 30 dry lbs of glaze (and I will not), and I am just a beginning ceramicist but I am making mostly mugs/teacups/teapots and wares to come in contact with food. If you can help me troubleshoot at all I would really appreciate it!! Thank you!! Eric
  13. india ink or what else ?

    Tattoo ink. Available in every colour, densely pigmented, pretty cheap, designed to be 'taken internally'. Problem solved!
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