Jump to content

D-Walk

Members
  • Content count

    4
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  1. Warping mugs

    Thanks for the reply. The handles I put on are below the top of the rim, probably 3/4" down from there. The warping seems to happen during the firing; the shapes look good during the drying process. It's when they come out of the kiln I notice it.
  2. Hey all, I've always had a bit of an issue with wheel thrown mugs I create warping a little bit out of round during the bisque and glaze firings. Not all my mugs will do this, or even half, but it seems I've always got several mugs in each firing that end up a bit 'out of round'. I don't make the walls of my mugs especially thin (which I thought could be one cause), and I check them during the drying process to make sure they're keeping their shape. All I can figure is some sort of surface tension created by the handle that's pulling it out of round during firing. Thoughts, comments, sarcastic remarks?? D- Walk
  3. You've got two main options. One, is to get a cement board scoring tool from a home improvement store like Lowes. It's got carbide tips on it, and you simply score then line you want on the board several times, and then snap it. They'll probably never go dull like a knife or something. If you're cutting a lot of cement board, you may think about switching out the blade on your circular saw (if you have one) for a cement cutting blade. It's a blade designed specifically for this...it will create a LOT of dust though, so do it outside or something. I use Hardiebacker board in my classroom for wedging surfaces, working bats for projects, and in my home studio. It's a great option because you can get a good number of boards out of each 3'x5' piece. Just make sure to get the 1/2" thickness.
×