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Questions Re: Kiln Vent, Cones, Controller, And Cooling


LeeU

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Three questions:

 

(1) The manual (yes, actually read & referenced) for my L&L Easy Fire kiln, plus an Orton Tips sheet, say to have the vent (Vent Sure) running continuously throughout the firing. Both specify to NOT open any peep holes. OK...but then how do I see my witness cones? And if the answer is in front of my nose somewhere, please be gentle as you chuckle! 

 

(2) The instructions for upon firing completion say it is safe (and preferred, I gather) to turn off the kiln. It also says that the controller will continue to read out the temperature as it cools down. Well, once I turn the kiln off (toggle off) and turn off the juice (main breaker), there is no read out on the control panel. So how am I supposed to know the temp as it cools? And if that info is in front of my nose, same petition for mercy as in  #1. 

 

(3) About how long is an "average" (I know, no such thing) cool down? The manual does not speak to this at all (other than instructing to keep the vent running and don't open the peep holes). Based on what I have read in other sources, some say roughly twice as many hours as the fire, some say about the same number of hours as the fire, some say just wait until there is no warmth felt at all on the surface, and some say when it is 200 degrees or less...but per #2 (kiln off, no lights/read out on control panel), I have no way to know what the temp is. So-am I doing something wrong with the shut-off? At this point I don't care if the info is in front of my nose and the reader is rolling on the floor--just gimme the how-to's that I am clearly missing.

 

THANKS in advance. 

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First of all, you should be commended for doing something that many potters can't be bothered with ... reading the manual!

 

While wearing a heat proof glove, you can pull a peep plug out to check the witness cones, then put it back.

 

I never turn the toggle switch off after the firing is over, just because I want to see when the temp is cool enough to peek, and cool enough to unload. Are you sure the manual is referring to the toggle switch?

 

When my cone 6 firing is over, it takes 24 hours until it's cool enough to unload.

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After my Skutt 1027 finishes firing I check the board for duration of firing for my log, turn the kiln off at the control board, then it continues to read the temp.  I only turn the MASTER BREAKER off when I'm ready to unload the kiln usually about 200 degrees on the board. I usually leave the kiln vent on for a couple or three hours after firing is complete.  (I thought I was the only one that peeked.)  

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You RTFM?!!! congrats. Now you can make decisions based on your needs. If you are going to fire down, can you program your controller? 

Turn off the switch but not the power. I let the temp. drop to 200F before unloading. I prop the lid open an inch at 400.

My kilns take 8-13 hours for a bisque. My big takes longer than my 18x 27" medium kiln.

Marcia

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1. When using the vent, there is no need to leave the peep holes unplugged (or lid propped open) - which is sometimes done for unvented kilns. Removing a peep to check the cone pack is okay . . . just don't leave the peep out for the whole firing. When checking cones, use gloves and eye protection.

 

2. I do not turn off my L&L (at control box and/or wall safety switch) until I am ready to unload. I am willing to guess the manual says you can turn the kiln off at the toggle after it completes firing, but to check temp, you would need to turn it back on to get a temperature reading. I'd just leave it on.

 

3. It is generally 24-hours after the firing cycle is over before my L&L cools enough to open. I practice restraint . . . wait until its 100F.

 

Now about this manual reading . . . don't go giving potters a bad name by letting too many people know you do such things. Some things are best kept to one's self.

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Thanks...the manual was just not as clear as it could have been...that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

 

I quote:  "Once CPLT is seen the firing is complete. It is best to now shut all power to the kiln off. So, being a good do-bee, I did! (Emphasis mine.) 

 

The text goes on to read (what to me was contradictory and confusing) "It is safe enough to leave the display on ... or it is also safe to press START/STOP to get back to IdLE, TC2, current temp and leave it there. OH...so then, DON'T turn it off!!! LOL  :rolleyes:   OK-now I got it. 

 

Thanks guys! 

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Thanks...the manual was just not as clear as it could have been...that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

 

I quote:  "Once CPLT is seen the firing is complete. It is best to now shut all power to the kiln off. So, being a good do-bee, I did! (Emphasis mine.) 

 

The text goes on to read (what to me was contradictory and confusing) "It is safe enough to leave the display on ... or it is also safe to press START/STOP to get back to IdLE, TC2, current temp and leave it there. OH...so then, DON'T turn it off!!! LOL  :rolleyes:   OK-now I got it. 

 

Thanks guys!

 

Generally I think L&L documentation is really well written, but you're right this is confusing.

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Lee, that manual will be your friend!  Mine is dog eared with sticky notes sticking out from many pages.  Ditto on what everyone else said.  If the kiln finishes at 4 in the afternoon, I can usually unload at 4 the next afternoon.  I leave the display switch on so I can see what the temp is, and I don't pull out my plugs.  I run the vent until the firing is complete, then turn it off. 

RTFM, yep!  I love my FM!  

 

Roberta

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Finally, I am running my first bisque load. Agreed...the manual is quite decent overall. I am looking forward to learning a lot and having fun, while I slowly go broke LOL. The shipping cost for clay (and everything, really) is killing me, even from the closest clay suppliers (none in-state). Love my kiln being on my back porch and my wheel in my house...not having to travel 'round to somewhere other throw and to fire is priceless.  

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Thanks all. Re: reducing shipping costs----

 

Chantay-I am in a small rural state - nothing here I would even call a real city - everything is fairly limited in scale. Local studios would sell to me at cost from what they stock in volume-so I am better off to order direct and have the full range of suppliers and types of clay to choose from.

 

Marcia-thanks for the info--I enrolled in the Potters Council - UPS program--for my small weights it will probably be about 10% off, which is nice. 

 

Roberta-the free shipping only applies to things OTHER THAN clay (of course!) And I have found I still need to price shop-often the purchase price is higher than competitors (to absorb that "free" shipping).

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Lee,

 

I wanted to try a clay the local supplier did not carry in stock.  They ordered it for me as part of their next order from the company.  Their orders always got the lowest shipping rate so they did not charge me extra for the special order as it added no cost to their order.  If you are not in a hurry (I was willing to wait), then ask the local studio if they would add what you'd like to try to their next order. 

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