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4 Feet Makes A Rocker Help,please

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I think when the vessel in question is bone dry, take a bat, wet it and put the feet of the platter

straight down on the wet bat for 2 sec.s and flip the vessel over to see the high spots, which

should be wet.  Put more water down and repeat.  This will soften up the clay and shortly

all feet should conform to the same level.  If when fired, it gets uneven, then you could grind it

smooth with a grinding wheel or sand paper.

 

I'm not a big fan of Giffin Grips, but if you have one, go to the hardware store and buy a replacement

grinding stone about 7 - 8 inches diameter and chuck it into the Giffin Grip.  The grinding stone will

be laying on its side like a large hockey puck, then ease the uneven legs on to the grinding stone.

Water may have to be used so the grinding stone won't become less effective, and keep dust down.

 

If you don't have a GG, and you do have a level worn out bat.  You can go to the same hardware

store and buy a Sandpaper disk with a adhesive backing.  Peel back the backing and glue that

sandpaper on to the bat, spin the bat, and lightly grind off the uneven legs.  Medium to fine wet/dry

sandpaper should work.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Alabama

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I have the SAME PROBLEM with animal sculptures! Drives me nuts!

 

Thats an easy fix.  Raise the right front foot of all the animals - as if they're pointing. - ->

Your entire menagerie could be a: "pointing dog",

a pointing cat,

a pointing Guinea Pig, etc.

 

Or  have them all sit on their haunches with an extra long tail, like a T- Rex 

T-Rex Bunny

T-Rex Iguana or pointing Iguana ;>)  All would look great in the Art Spirit Gallery

 

A pointing centipede probably won't work, because if all the right legs are pointing, it would

    roll over. :)

 

Alabama

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You may find this to be an issue that appears after the piece comes out of the glaze firing despite having been level-footed all the way up to that point. And vice-versa, a rocking piece comes out of the glaze kiln steady as can be. This is because in the glaze firing, if the clay body is reaching it's proper maturity, it will soften slightly (pyro-plastic) to fully vitrify. At that time, the piece will bend to conform to whatever is supporting it, namely the kiln shelf. If the shelf is dead flat, then the feet will come out dead level regardless of where they started. If the kiln shelf is warped, the feet will match the crooked surface, even if they started level. The solutions: 1) flat shelves, or 2) build with only three feet (tripod) which by definition can never rock (for proof, go back to geometry class and the definition of a plane), or 3), grind as needed to a true flat reference surface, and then if it still rocks, blame the table.

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Shrinkage is problematic when doing feet. Best way to start is to make certain that all of the feet are made from the same piece of well wedged clay. This really does alleviate a lot. Other thoughts include taking steps on all feet one at a time. For example, if making these feet out of coils, make one coil out of the clay, cut at least an inch off of each end of the coil and cut into 4 equal lengths. Do shaping on all, then joining on all, and final carving/decorating/sculpting on all. It may help, but then the option of grinding off one piece is the final step if this does not work.

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(The solutions: 1) flat shelves, or 2) build with only three feet (tripod) which by definition can never rock (for proof, go back to geometry class and the definition of a plane), or 3), grind as needed to a true flat reference surface, and then if it still rocks, blame the table.)

this above is the fix -three ways to choose.

Mark

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I find after glaze firing they settle down. I also use a thin sprinkling of medium grog on the kiln shelf under the feet causes the feet shrink together instead of getting hung up on the kiln shelf or make a flat firing plate that will shrink with the footed item.

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So the now bisque pieces that I work SO LONG on, a prototype, that is rocking might settle in the glaze if fired to maturity?  I will glaze it and get back  with you.  I think I have been afraid to grind feet thinking that since they are small attachments, they are fragile.

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On a large platter, wheel or hand built, that's needed hanging on

the wall, I'd use three lug handles for feet. Make each one the

same size of your little finger. If the platter has a top side,

then place the lugs at the 10, 2, and 6 o'clock positions. If it

is heavy put holes in the 10 and 2 lugs and if really heavy put holes

in all three to distribute the weight.

 

Alabama

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Alabama, do you mean for these feet-handles to be out of sight or planned in as a part of the design.  The pieces I am thinking about are finished out at 14" square, thus the reluctance to use 3 feet, seems out of balance, design wise.

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I was thinking that this platter was 30+ inches wide and was to hang

on the wall. Being square it can used as a square or diamond. I was thinking

the legs would be hidden, but if they need to part of the plaque

the ends could be bent down and used as legs. If it is to be used as tray there may be a way to use three legs. Since is a prototype get a board and decide how

3 or 4 feet would work then copy in clay.

 

Just between us I'm working on a prototype coffee/tea cup with a ceramic

filter insert (removable), and a ceramic lid. I would like the lid to fit both

the cup and filter. The cup would be about 2 lbs., insert 1 lb., and 1/2 lb. lid.

The idea is to place grounds in the filter the micro wave it to temp. I have been

planning this since mid Oct., and if you've seen this months Pottery Making Ill.

they something similar for coffee.

 

Keep us posted on the tray, plaque, or platter.

 

Alabama

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