MarkS Posted December 22, 2010 Report Share Posted December 22, 2010 We've been given a kiln which appears to be little used. I don't know where to start since all I remember is watching my grandmother fire her doll kiln. It is a Cress FX-27P. Aside from plugging it in to see if it works where should I start? Should I apply kiln wash to all the exposed parts? I've got some cement that came with it but appears to have dried to a lump. Can it be rejuevenated? Or just buy new? I would appreciate any suggestions on how to set the controls for a bisque firing and a cone 6 firing. The manual is somewhat vague and Cress wasn't helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arnold Howard Posted December 22, 2010 Report Share Posted December 22, 2010 We've been given a kiln which appears to be little used. I don't know where to start since all I remember is watching my grandmother fire her doll kiln. It is a Cress FX-27P. Aside from plugging it in to see if it works where should I start? Should I apply kiln wash to all the exposed parts? First, read the manual to find out how and where to install the kiln. You may need a new electric circuit. Then read the sections on preparation and operation before attempting to fire the kiln. Reading the manual will save you a lot of time later on. When kiln-washing the brick bottom, be careful not to get kiln wash in an element groove. The kiln wash should be applied only to the tops of shelves and the brick bottom. Do not apply it to kiln walls or lid. Sincerely, Arnold Howard Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. X Posted December 22, 2010 Report Share Posted December 22, 2010 I'm sorry to read that Cress was not that helpful. I do not own a Cress, so I will answer the only question I can, which is about the kiln wash. Do NOT apply kiln wash to all the exposed surfaces. Kiln wash tends to flake off over time, and any that you apply to the inside walls, or the inside of the lid will be forever raining down on your glazed pieces, ruining them. Kiln wash could be applied to the floor, but this is not absolutely necessary. Also, I believe kiln wash is fatal to the elements,so any you get on elements will shorten their life or burn them out, I think. EDIT: Sorry to repeat Mr. Howards answer, his post snuck in just before mine I guess! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted Posted December 23, 2010 Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 We've been given a kiln which appears to be little used. I don't know where to start since all I remember is watching my grandmother fire her doll kiln. It is a Cress FX-27P. Aside from plugging it in to see if it works where should I start? Should I apply kiln wash to all the exposed parts? I've got some cement that came with it but appears to have dried to a lump. Can it be rejuevenated? Or just buy new? I would appreciate any suggestions on how to set the controls for a bisque firing and a cone 6 firing. The manual is somewhat vague and Cress wasn't helpful. Mark One thing check the amps rating for the kiln. Then add 10% to the amps that will give you a rought idea of electrical requirement. Mostly likly you will need a 60 amp circuit. Have a LICENSE electrician check the requirements and do the work. Ted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denice Posted December 23, 2010 Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 We've been given a kiln which appears to be little used. I don't know where to start since all I remember is watching my grandmother fire her doll kiln. It is a Cress FX-27P. Aside from plugging it in to see if it works where should I start? Should I apply kiln wash to all the exposed parts? I've got some cement that came with it but appears to have dried to a lump. Can it be rejuevenated? Or just buy new? I would appreciate any suggestions on how to set the controls for a bisque firing and a cone 6 firing. The manual is somewhat vague and Cress wasn't helpful. Mark I don't know if you live in an area that offers pottery classes at community centers but new classes start in January. The instructor would probably welcome your interest and help with loading and unloading the kiln and you can learn all of the in's and out's of firing. Denice (Wichita, KS) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkS Posted December 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2010 Well, I checked the electrical circuit and we're good to go. Did a test firing with a 019 cone and everything seemed to work. Had about decided not to use kiln wash at all but after reading another post and having seen what glaze overun has already done to the bottom I may apply it there. My wife signed up to take a class at the local community college - it is more in line with teaching the local traditional pottery style. Myself, I'm hoping they fire in a groundhog kiln so I can participate. Now I just have figure out how fast to fire. The manual recommends slowest on hand thrown ware. Any thoughts on this? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted December 30, 2010 Report Share Posted December 30, 2010 Be sure to clean out any glaze on the floor BEFORE coating with kiln wash. If it is a caustic glaze, it will eat brick. Just chisel it off with a file or something and coat the kiln wash. Glad to hear your kiln will be working . Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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