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Making clay darker?


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I bought some laguna #900. (On sale) I like the way it and use it unadulterated.

 

However I want to mimic standard 266, or something in the ball park, dark brown....earthy...

 

What can I add to the laguna #900 to make it dark like standard #266?

 

I'm thinking some manganese dioxide, and RIO,is a good start to test with.. but wanting to hear from some of the cardinals of clay to advise

 

 

(Yes I'm too cheap to buy the 266)

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Adding straight red iron oxide is not the best way to get iron into a clay body. It tends to make the clay more brittle. Adding an iron bearing clay to the mix is a much better way to go, however that would need to be done in the original formula.

 

How about buying one box of 266 and making a slip to cover your pots? You'd have enough slip to last a good long time. Or just splurge for the 266. It throws like a dream!

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Ty. Neil (dolomite)

 

What I've done inn the past is wedge 2 moist clays together worked well. And got me to clay body I liked.

 

I'm not a big slip fan cause I haven't been able to apply it Ina way where it doesn't show that it is slip. Eg. Rub some off, feet not covered .......

 

Ok I saw it on the "internets". Some one was adding color and or other additives to clay and wedged it it. If I did same and wedged it well let it rest , wedged. Let it rest. Wouldn't that be close to homogenized, like it was there at mix day one?

 

Also. No comment on the manganese dioxide as clay additive? (Plus I already bought it)

 

Also for future reference in the event I ever make my own clay. What percentages are starting points and danger zones, for rio or manganese?

 

And by brittle what do you mean? After firing or moist?

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Ty. Neil (dolomite)

 

What I've done inn the past is wedge 2 moist clays together worked well. And got me to clay body I liked.

 

I'm not a big slip fan cause I haven't been able to apply it Ina way where it doesn't show that it is slip. Eg. Rub some off, feet not covered .......

 

Ok I saw it on the "internets". Some one was adding color and or other additives to clay and wedged it it. If I did same and wedged it well let it rest , wedged. Let it rest. Wouldn't that be close to homogenized, like it was there at mix day one?

 

Also. No comment on the manganese dioxide as clay additive? (Plus I already bought it)

 

Also for future reference in the event I ever make my own clay. What percentages are starting points and danger zones, for rio or manganese?

 

And by brittle what do you mean? After firing or moist?

 

 

I think He means when fired, in regards to its strength.

Generally you wouldn't add rio to a clay body, you simply start with iron bearing clays if you want a red/brown body.

Adding manganese to a body usually yields something dark grey or black.

manganese isn't real good for you--it wont absorb through your skin, but it is an inhalation hazard and can affect the nervous system if inhaled chronically. This is a particular issue if your studio is dusty and you're using a lot of a manganese body.

 

 

 

 

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Brittle when fired. Even really well mixed it's not the same as naturally occurring high iron clays. As for the manganese, if I remember right the 266 has something like 1.5%. Just be careful handling it, as others have said. When you get tired of wedging it in, go buy some 266.

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As far as I know the maganese is most harmfull as it off gasse and is a inhalation hazard and can affect the nervous system. This is when its firing not handling. Wielders get this from mananase wielding rods,Thru the skin is less so than the fumes.

Richard Shaner thought this got him in the end.

I fire a lot of high maganese glazs and vent them outside and try yo avoid the fumes.

Mark

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As far as I know the maganese is most harmfull as it off gasse and is a inhalation hazard and can affect the nervous system. This is when its firing not handling. Wielders get this from mananase wielding rods,Thru the skin is less so than the fumes.

Richard Shaner thought this got him in the end.

I fire a lot of high maganese glazs and vent them outside and try yo avoid the fumes.

Mark

 

 

Mark, it is a hazard both when handling the material dry and when off gassing during a firing. Digital fire has a nice writeup on the subject, here.

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