Bubba Posted August 19 Report Share Posted August 19 There are a few forum posts here mentioning American Beauty kilns but I haven't seen an answer to the question of the history of this manufacturer or if its possible to find old manuals. @neilestrick says that kiln sitters all fire similarly, but this American Beauty model AB18 that I just picked up has 4 toggle switches instead of those familiar timer dials. It appears to be in good condition, but age is unknown unless someone can deduce the age from the serial number (627). Any help with these mysteries would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hulk Posted August 19 Report Share Posted August 19 Nice! Looks to be in very good shape ...for its age! The short section has an element in it, interesting. 2300°F operating limit, that's about cone 8 or so? ...and hence, with good elements, should reach cone 5/6 fairly easily, but may require more frequent element replacement than a cone 10 rated kiln. Check it over carefully for sound wiring, insulation, connections, et cetera. Any road, I'm not finding anything specific on that model, which is mentioned here: Vintage American beauty / Cress electric kilns - Equipment Use and Repair - Ceramic Arts Daily Community and here, poster believed the sitter with no timer mechanism is 70's vintage: having issues recalibrating my kilnsitter? - Equipment Use and Repair - Ceramic Arts Daily Community Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubba Posted August 19 Author Report Share Posted August 19 THANKS HULK! I found those posts too. I'm guessing it's the 627th unicorn made by this manufacturer and the rest shall remain a mystery. The price was $60.00 and a lovely two-hour round trip Sunday drive. If it fires up, I'm going to be happy and use it for bisque firing. If not, I am still happy because the brick is in great shape and it will make a nice top hat for my soon-to-be-a-reality wood-fired Rocket Kiln with interchangeable top hats (so it can used as a bisque or glaze kiln with one "hat", and a Raku kiln with another "hat"). Hulk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hulk Posted August 19 Report Share Posted August 19 very good! Be sure to set it up on a stand of some sort. I'm recalling Neil recommending cinder blocks (set upright) if a typical kiln stand isn't available... I'd be wary of fuming from any used kiln, particularly the older ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterH Posted August 20 Report Share Posted August 20 (edited) On 8/19/2024 at 5:19 AM, Bubba said: Beauty model AB18 that I just picked up has 4 toggle switches instead of those familiar timer dials. ... my emphasis. I'm not an expert but I think you've got your mental model badly wrong. - You don't have a timer dial because your kiln-sitter doesn't have this safety "watchdog timer" feature. - The 4 toggle switches are serving a similar function to the rotary "power" switch(es) usually used in conjunction with a kiln setter. To elaborate, typical firing instructions are given on p10 of INSTRUCTION MANUALFORA4HKT AND A8HKT https://cressmfg.wpenginepowered.com/wp-content/uploads/A8-A4-inst-manual.pdf These models are equipped with an infinite power control switch that is used to increase the power level during firing. Thick walled or hand made pieces should be fired more slowly. A typical firing schedule for firing hand made pieces 1 or 2 hours on “1” or low, then 1 or 2 more hours on “5” or medium, then turn to high for the remainder of the firing. 1) You don't have a rotary dial, instead you have 4 switches. Are they labeled? If not, my first guess is that they control the power going to the 4 kiln elements. (Your picture of the kiln interior suggests to me that there are 4 elements.) I assume you turn then on progressively, but haven't a clue what order to use. (This has to give a spatially more uneven heating pattern that using an infinite switch.) 2) The end of the firing could be determined by looking at pyrometric cones through the peephole. But the kiln-setter automates this by "looking" at a small cone placed inside it, and cutting off the power when it softens. 3) However cone-sitters sometime stick, so some have a watchdog timer. You set this to a time a longer than the firing should take. If the cone-sitter sticks the timer will cut of the power - hopefully before too much damage is done. You might like to set an alarm clock to remind you to check the kiln has shut itself off. PS Can you say what the model-number of your kiln-sitter is, so we can try to find a manual for it. Meanwhile here is the manual for models LT-3 & LT-3K. http://www.fireright.com/docs/kilnsitter/lt3andk.pdf Edited August 20 by PeterH Min 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted August 25 Report Share Posted August 25 The switch positions correspond to the element locations. Bottom switch is bottom element, top switch is top element, etc. Lot of old Gare and Evenheat kilns were built like this. Prop the lid an inch, turn the bottom switch on. Wait 1 hour, turn the next switch up on. Wait 1 hour. Close the lid, turn the next switch on, wait an hour, turn the top on. Let it run till the Sitter shuts it off. Make sure your work is very dry to avoid steam explosions, as this system tends to heat pretty quickly at first. PeterH 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubba Posted August 26 Author Report Share Posted August 26 4 hours ago, neilestrick said: The switch positions correspond to the element locations. Bottom switch is bottom element, top switch is top element, etc. Lot of old Gare and Evenheat kilns were built like this. Prop the lid an inch, turn the bottom switch on. Wait 1 hour, turn the next switch up on. Wait 1 hour. Close the lid, turn the next switch on, wait an hour, turn the top on. Let it run till the Sitter shuts it off. Make sure your work is very dry to avoid steam explosions, as this system tends to heat pretty quickly at first. Very, very helpful Neil - THANK YOU! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubba Posted August 26 Author Report Share Posted August 26 On 8/20/2024 at 5:46 AM, PeterH said: 3) However cone-sitters sometime stick, so some have a watchdog timer. You set this to a time a longer than the firing should take. If the cone-sitter sticks the timer will cut of the power - hopefully before too much damage is done. You might like to set an alarm clock to remind you to check the kiln has shut itself off. PS Can you say what the model-number of your kiln-sitter is, so we can try to find a manual for it. Meanwhile here is the manual for models LT-3 & LT-3K. http://www.fireright.com/docs/kilnsitter/lt3andk.pdf Peter - Your response is much appreciated - I now fully understand the functional difference between a toggle switch and a dial on a kiln. And your suggestion about the use of a timer will be employed - thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubba Posted August 26 Author Report Share Posted August 26 I've got a couple more mysteries about this old American Beauty kiln: 1) on top of the kiln sitter box there is a plate that says " ON OFF" with arrows, but there is no switch - what am I missing? 2) on the side of the kiln sitter box there is an outlet, what is that for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted August 27 Report Share Posted August 27 23 hours ago, Bubba said: 1) on top of the kiln sitter box there is a plate that says " ON OFF" with arrows, but there is no switch - what am I missing? 2) on the side of the kiln sitter box there is an outlet, what is that for? The on/off is likely the direction of the switches. The outlet if for a powered expansion ring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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