Skutt Kiln recondition - advice for removing rusted screws

[SFKeller]

First of all thanks to "Hulk" for the tip on searching the archives  that I found in one of the messages. (Use a search in google. Here is an example string      community.ceramicartsdaily.org "hulk" and "minarik").  

I'm repairing a Skutt 1227, probably 2000-2006 model.  I appreciate any advice.  Kiln looks pretty good, however there are a few of the bricks that I would like to replace. So far it all looks doable.  (If I can get the jacket screws loosened!)  This is my first kin overhaul.  The list includes.

1- replace 4 of the bricks (elements could be pinned up but I'm being picky)

2-replace all of the elements (previous user installed elements for a 208 V kiln). It did come with all 6 new elements for 240V (and the correct ones for the top/bottom and center). 

3-remove glaze drip from the floor (got that done, it is amazing how one small drip can eat through the firebrick). 

4-install new latches

5-install lid brace (for some reason there was not one!)

6-install replacement handle (I may skip this.  It's functional, just rusty).  

Keeping my fingers crossed that the controller works as promised. The person I purchased the kiln from had never installed it. 

I've ordered and gotten the bricks and parts. FYI,  I had really good customer service from kilnparts. com.  And they have a $6.99 flat rate shipping. Also some nice PDF instructions on the site. (it's nice to have that to refer to instead of just the videos). 

My biggest problem so far is removing the rusted screws.  Does anyone have any helpful hints for getting them removed.  I will be replacing them with stainless.  Is WD-40 ok to use if I make sure I wipe all the excess up?  (just thinking about heat and oil however I'm thinking any burn off would be minimal).  Or is there something better?  Also worried about popping the welds on the hoseclamps off the stainless jacket as I fight with these screws.  And the tiny screws holding the latches are really easily stripped. 

I also ordered the replacement latches since some of them are broken.  These screws are really rusted.  I was wondering if I should put kiln cement in the holes when reinstalling but from reading it appears the better option is to use slightly bigger diameter screws?

Thanks a bunch for your advice.   Sandi Keller. 

 

 

 

Edited August 8 by SFKeller

[Hulk]

Heat can be great for loosening rusted together bits, however, heat may not be appropriate - depends on where and/or what's nearby.
When I worked in a machine shop, removing broken off bolts was a regular thing. We didn't show the customer how it was done, heh. Judicious application of heat, tig a rod to the end of the bolt, tap tap, turns right out ...don't tell.

There are several products that claim to dissolve rust. I've had some good luck with "LiquidWrench" over the decades; a drop or so, give it several hours, then give it a tap tap and try turning it, else another drop and wait.

The latches that hold the segments together, no doubt it is a good idea to have them be secure, sound, and fastened.
That said, they fell off my old Skutt, and that was that.

[SFKeller]

Thanks Hulk!  I'm not up on tig welding but I have some resources I could convince to help, just need to cook them a meal or two. But at least that gives me the confidence that there IS a way to remove these screws, If I mess them up.  First I will try some heat and the liquid wrench.  I really want to replace these however they are on the bottom and could easily be pinned.  

In the photo I haven't filled in the hole where I removed the glaze drip.  For most of the kiln, the brick is in really good shape.  There are some hairline cracks in the bottom so I will look for a piece of steel to put on the bottom for support.  

[neilestrick]

If you're talking about the screws that go into the body bands, you can usually just twist them hard enough that the screw either breaks or just pops loose. You can also just pry the part off. Either the screw will break or the sheet metal will give out. If you need to put the part back on just go up one screw size.

[JohnnyK]

Can you post some pix of the screws in question?

[SFKeller]

The ones on the pipe clamps on the steel jacket are the biggest problem. I've gotten one loose. But the slot for the screw driver on the middle one is really worn and shallow. (Maybe create a better slot with a Dremel)  Plus I worry about the band flexing and popping the welds off.  I am holding the insert part with a wrench. Will try heating it with a torch tonight. 

The metal in the phillips screws on the handle and latch is very soft.  Hopefully heating things will free them up.  I'm also thinking about getting one of the drill bits for removing stripped screws. 

My biggest fear is trying to make things nice I'm making them worse. (I want to save my $$$ for gas kiln burners and shed,)  

Getting a new appreciation for how these things are put together! Thanks for all the info. 

[Mark C.]

Use a cobalt bit and drill them out

[SFKeller]

Thanks for all the suggestions.  I'm happy to report that I've successfully removed the rusted screws and replaced some of the bricks in the lower ring.  What ended up working was heating the metal up.  This was expecially effective on the hose clamps holding the steel jacket.  I had some trouble with the middle one which was stripped, but finally found a screw driver that fit it better.  I also tried deepening the slot with a dremel, but I'm not sure I really achieved much with that.  I did buy a new bit and also a screw extractor set which I thought I would need for the handle and latch screws, but I ended up not using it.  I will be replacing several bricks in the top ring so they still may come in handy.   3 hours spent on extracting screws and 30 minutes replacing bricks!  LOL I may have overestimated that a bit.  

[Denice]

I have fixed an area on a kiln floor by cutting a square  out of a broken shelf and then chip the same size square out of the floor brick.  The floor  brick is fairly soft and chips easily,  I make sure the replacement piece is nice and tight,   no cement needed.   I always keep a shelf on one inch stilts on the bottom of the kiln so my Skutt Enviorvent will havea spacer to pull air  out easily .   If your going to use a Enviorvent system there is no need to repair the hole.    Denice

[Denice]

  I forgot to mention that you can also use a high fire unglazed porcelain tile instead of a cut shelf.  They can save work and time,  already cut square and thin.  I have a box of them I keep in my kiln room, they are also good to put under a stilt to make it a little taller.   I have had some of them shrink in the past so you might want to fire them first.   They are suppose to be C10,  I don't know how they shrink at C6 but sometimes they do.     Denice

[SFKeller]

thanks for the info Denice.