Bam2015 Posted December 30, 2022 Report Share Posted December 30, 2022 (edited) Hi All, I use a Dirty Girls bat system on a Shimpo Whisper and the bat pins keep coming loose. Any tips on how to keep them from loosening? Seems like such a silly question to ask, but it is an issue, it affects centering. I am editing my post. While on a ceramic supply website, I see that bat pins are specific to wheel brands. I didn't know that. A friend gave me my bat pins and she has a Brent. I am going to order some for my wheel. Betty Edited December 30, 2022 by Bam2015 mistake Callie Beller Diesel and Rae Reich 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelly in AK Posted December 31, 2022 Report Share Posted December 31, 2022 Maybe nylock wing nuts or locking washers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted December 31, 2022 Report Share Posted December 31, 2022 Most all bat pins are 1/4-20 size. The difference is how long they need to be, which is determined by the thickness of the wheel head. What type of nut are you using on the bottom? A standard wing nut usually works just fine. If you're not using any sort of nut then they will definitely move around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick White Posted December 31, 2022 Report Share Posted December 31, 2022 Can you share a link to this ceramic website that claims bat pins are unique to specific wheel brands. In the USA, all bat pins are fundamentally similar and often interchangeable. The basic pin is an industry standard 1/4x20 hex head cap screw, and the wingnut is the matching industry standard 1/4x20. The only wheel brand difference might be in the length of the pin. A Shimpo Whisper has the holes drilled through the thin areas of the wheel head, and so a 3/4" length is sufficient to go through with enough to put the wingnut on. A Brent wheel has the holes drilled through the radial reinforcing struts on the underside, and so needs a pin that is 1 1/4" long to have enough protruding to put the wingnut on (but only use 1 1/4" length - 1" is too short to go all the way through and 1 1/2" will hit the raised joint of the 2-piece splash pan). Other brands may have differing thickness of the wheel head where the hole is drilled. There is also a foolish body of thought out there that we don't need no steenkin' wingnuts, just stick the bat pin in the hole and if needed wrap a scrap of paper around it to wedge it in place so it doesn't wiggle (which it will). If you are having trouble with the wingnuts loosening over time from vibration, then one of the suggestions above by @Kelly In AK will keep the wingnut tight. NB - Go to your local orange or blue big box home store or your favorite hardware emporium and get some stainless steel ones. Those won't rust. Rae Reich 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted December 31, 2022 Report Share Posted December 31, 2022 I have never locked down a bat pin on any wheel in my 50 year career. I pull them up most of the time and put them in when needed. They stay put and uaually are hard to pull out after some time goes by. Wing nut as Kelly said if you want them locked up. As. Dick said the wing nuts can hit a splash pan. The stainless ones sound pretty nice. I keep a small bowl on shelve near wheel with a couple of types some are ground down a dat to fist tighter bats. I throw on clay pad 90% of time and use plaster bats so no pins are used. When I threw it all on bats I droped in the pins and never thought about wing nuts Pres 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rae Reich Posted December 31, 2022 Report Share Posted December 31, 2022 You might be leaning horizontally onto your clay without centering the motion, that is, without making the center of the clay/wheelhead the endpoint of your lean. That would shove bat pins out of position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hulk Posted December 31, 2022 Report Share Posted December 31, 2022 (edited) When I go to the clay pad, it's on a bat, so I can leave the pins in (+1 on stainless steel; I used the "tooth lock" type lock washers and stainless wing nuts), transition to trimming set up, back to the clay pad or bats, back to the clay pad... ...a bit of anti-sieze on the threads, (almost) always a good idea. Edited January 1, 2023 by Hulk tooth lock types, anti-sieze Bam2015 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bam2015 Posted December 31, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2022 Rae, that's an interesting thought. I'll try a locking washer as well, thank you for the suggestion Kelly. Betty Rae Reich 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pres Posted January 1, 2023 Report Share Posted January 1, 2023 Like @Mark C.I have never locked down a bat pin. I keep a lot of Allen bolts in a small cup in a drawer. I make certain to keep them clean, and oil them to protect from rust. I use a pad under my bats with water to aid in holding the bat in place. In the beginning I used one of those thin sponge pads made for potters, but when I couldn't find it one day I improvised with a used clay bag. I cut the bag in 1/2 and placed one piece over the pins flat, placed my bat over top and pressed it down over the plastic onto the pins, with the wheel spinning use a utility knife to cut the excess plastic off. Remove the bat, soak the plastic in water and place it back on the wheel. The water and the pins help hold the bat on even when centering large pieces . . 15-20# of clay, and I usually get about 20 uses before the plastic is worn out. best, Pres Rae Reich 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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