Airbrush recommendations

[RuthB]

I regularly spray glazes using a Harbor Freight sprayer.  I'm looking for finer control for glaze accents.  Anyone using an airbrush with success? 

I've at least learned that a double action Paasch airbrush may work and that there are parts for ceramic glazes. Anyone have any direct experience

with model numbers, parts and process.

Thanks in advance with any help.

 

Ruth

[Magnolia Mud Research]

23 minutes ago, RuthB said:

I'm looking for finer control for glaze accents.  Anyone using an airbrush with success? 

I've at least learned that a double action Paasch airbrush may work and that there are parts for ceramic glazes. Anyone have any direct experience

with model numbers, parts and process.

Vince Pitelka has several articles on spraying:
https://www.vincepitelka.com/ 
https://www.vincepitelka.com/handoutsinformation/
in the "Clay Studio Tools": section 
"An Inexpensive and Effective Homemade Spray Booth"
"Buying Spray Equipment and an Air Compressor"
"Using a Gravity-Feed HVLP Spraygun"

You might be able to contact him direct from his website.

LT

[Mark C.]

Paasch airbrush was at one time the cats meow-I have one for old days

Lots of control  on small areas

Edited May 17, 2022 by Mark C.

[RuthB]

Thanks to both of you. Confirmation that it's possible is useful. I'll contact Vince for some specifics. There are too many models to wade through and some specific attachments are needed.  I'll post something detailed when I get this figured out. 

Thanks again,

Ruth

 

[Mark C.]

Get the 3 tips and some jars and a simple model is all one needs for ceramics

[Rae Reich]

What they ^ said. Although I have a pancake compressor for the spray gun, I prefer to use the little compressor you can get with the Paasch for airbrush. Also get the tiny tip-cleaning needles and figure out how to label them (I use little tags of different colored tape or string, which also helps to locate them on my bench). 

Lots of fun to be had. Do lots of experiments and take notes. 

[oldlady]

rae, i have the airbrush and their compressor.  i do not use them.  i cannot understand how a tiny bottle is useful.  the compressor gets very hot when i have tested it.  i have never used it for anything other that to see how it works.    there are only T-shirt artists  using it in my area and i have never tried to learn from them.  there were a couple of potters who used them way back in the 1970s.  their work was very good, highly detailed nd precise.  i hope you can find what you need to do that kind of art.

[Mark C.]

Just get a basic set simple brush and the 3 tip sizes are 1,2,and 3. In ceramics you spray larger particles in underglazes,one stokes etc and the particle size is larger than say paints so do not spent extra $ on fancy brush model-keep it simple a very small compressor will work fine and be less noisy as wll . I have a small quiet one for my airbrush. I also  do not use it much anymore. Its for fine lines and small details only.Most of my spraying is for slips and colorants in salt fires not my daily work in Porc, funtional wares. In collage I used one alot.

[Rae Reich]

@oldlady, Hi!

If you’re trying to apply a solid color all over even a medium size pot you’ll blow through those little jars pretty quick, but if the object is a graduated ombré effect there’s nothing better and uses much less glaze or stain. I used mostly stains mixed with a bit of clear or white base glaze. Also good if you don’t want brushmarks or to disturb underglaze. 
 

@RuthB, you’ll also need a fine screen to run your glazes/stains through to minimize clogging. 

Edited May 18, 2022 by Rae Reich

[Hyn Patty]

Assuming you are using glazes that are smooth and without crystals in it, such as clear glazes and under glazes, then ANY airbrush will work.  I suggest using a .5 nozzle or larger, though if you thin you glaze or underglaze enough, you can use finer detail nozzles and needles.  I use distilled water for airbrushing earthenware and other porous bisques and alcohol for airbrushing porcelain or bone china that need the super fast drying.  I do the same when using china paints through the air brush.  I keep a bottle of Ever Clear in the freezer just for this purpose or store it in sealed jelly jars.  Once the alcohol is open it evaporates relatively quickly even with the lid on but freezing it slows loss.

I've used all sorts of compressors from expensive named brands to cheapo ones and it hardly matters.  They are usually all made in China anyway so since these days you have to return the compressors /to/ China for repair or replacement in many cases, my only warning is to either buy a super cheap one for working on fingernails or buy only from someone who will allow you to return to who sold it to you rather than shipping it back to China.  Shipping overseas is really costly and can easily exceed what you paid for the compressor. 

I suggest any compressor you get be adjustable PSI as I regularly adjust up or down depending on the material I am spraying.  Make sure you have a moisture trap in the line so you can avoid water spurting and ruining your finish and empty it often.  And lastly, to avoid pulsing, get a compressor combo with a small air tank.  It also prevents your compressor from having to run continuously and over heating.  Simply fill and work off the tank and it'll auto shut off until the tank pressure drops enough to kick it back on.  I also turn OFF the compressor often so it's only running a few minutes at a time before it cools.  The tank holds enough pressure for me to work off of it for a little while before the compressor is needed again.

My current compressor is simply a TS Global compressor they sell for about $85 (including shipping) for doing finger nails.  You laugh but it works better than my $300 Badger compressor.  It goes up to 50 psi and that's plenty high enough for the work I do since I usually spray glazes at around 35 to 40 psi.

My first ceramics airbrush was a Paasche but for the past 15 or so years I have been using a basic Iwata Eclipse and love it.  Glazes and under glazes are like liquid sand paper so it's always chewing away at some of your airbrush insides.  I rarely replace my needle because it's easy to sharpen the tip and keep it in good order but I do have to replace my nozzle regularly.  I keep half a dozen extra nozzles on hand and watch for places having sales, clearance, or going out of business so I can buy them 10 or 12 at a time at the best discount possible.  Over time they thin and distort outwards, which still works fine for me, but looses detail.  Eventually they split and that will cause splattering and need then to be replaced.

I hope this helps.  Of course vent if you can with a hood, wipe up overspray with damp sponges to control dust, and wear a suitable respirator while working.  Good luck!  If I can help with anything, hit me up with questions.  Most of my work uses airbrushing initially and detailing in various layers on top of it. 

Edited May 19, 2022 by Hyn Patty
typo

[Hyn Patty]

I agree with the others - if you need to spray large volume, use a spray gun with a larger container that holds plenty.  But for finer airbrush work I find the little cups are plenty large enough for the pieces I'm doing (mostly horses) where I thin the colors a fair bit and it goes a long way.  Some of the materials I'm airbrushing are pretty costly anyway so I really want to conserve them an not eat through them rapidly.  I do take pains not to airbrush toxic materials.  Silica is bad enough by itself to keep cleaned up.  I also advise if you are going to do a /lot/ of airbrushing that you set up a shower stall to do it in.  Your table, chair, everything can literally be hozed down between sessions and the door or curtain helps keeps dust contained and easier to vent.

But you can also buy larger bottles for regular airbrushes.   Just do a search on 'airbrush bottles' and you'll see there are a lot of sizes and options in both glass or plastic.  I like the plastic ones because they don't add as much weight.  If you have any trouble getting them to stay in a bottom fed airbrush, just use a rubber band to help secure them so they don't risk dropping out while you work.  Or make yourself a quick release velcro strap sized exactly how you want to fit your bottle.

Edited May 19, 2022 by Hyn Patty

[Rae Reich]

Wow, @Hyn Patty! So much good information/experience! Glad you’re here  

[Hyn Patty]

Glad if I can help!  Things the way I do them might not work out for you but maybe it'll give you ideas to try!  A place to start from.  Good luck and holler if you run into problems.  We'll help.   

I also forgot to mention that I strongly prefer a bottom feed airbrush rather than a top feed where you can't remove the cup.  Top feeds are harder to clean and waste a lot of your time doing that every time you want to change colors.  Much faster and easier if you use bottom feed where you can swap cups rapidly and control the size of the cups.  I might well mix up several pigments in several cups, and keep a cup at the ready that is full of water, alcohol, or cleaner to run through between colors.  So much less hassle.  I also premix my clear glazes into larger bottles so they are ready to use - all I have to do is stir and shake them up and they are good to go, already pre-thinned for application.

Edited May 20, 2022 by Hyn Patty