Element feeder wire replacement issue.

[Bill Kielb]

1 hour ago, cadenrank said:

might be wrong, but I believe that each section on this specific kiln is 240v, with 120v through each element, with 2 elements per section. Which puts the amps at 12 per wire, I think?

Not likely, L1 and L2 says 240v so unless you also have a neutral then it’s 240v across the element. They could be 20 ohms each, measured in parallel would be 10 ohms for both which puts this at 24 amps per leg (L1,L2)  or just north of 5000 watts for the grouping, which then would be 12 amps per wire.……. And that would make sense. As drawn all the power from L1 leads through the element directly to L2 so no 120 v  unless there is a neutral which would generally be labeled as such.

Just for snicks what brand and model kiln?

[cadenrank]

4 minutes ago, Bill Kielb said:

Not likely, L1 and L2 says 240v 

The diagram that I referenced isn't actually for the kiln I'm working on, it just showed the stuff I was figuring out best, and had the same switch configuration. But that makes sense. I know I measured the elements resistance in a single element, though, and recorded it as around 10ohms brand new (well, brand new +one cone 6 firing).  I drew my own wiring diagram for this kiln, but am by no means a professional, and it really was just so I had a hard copy of the wire to terminal, wire to wire, etc. diagram instead of just the pictures of the inside of the control boxes I took. 

But regardless, I think I'll keep it the way it is, with the two ring terminals into one, but I'll attempt to see if I can crimp two 12ga into the 10-12 terminals I have later this week when I switch out the receptacles. 

Thank you again for all your help. I've learned a lot about kilns, and 240v circuits in general through this project. 

[cadenrank]

This kiln in reference is an old Blue Diamond model 180. 
I've pretty much replaced all the internals besides the switches now. But it worked great as it was for 2 years, but decided it was time I took on this project of overhauling a lot of the old wiring and parts. 

I own a digital skutt too, but I kind of like the hands on aspect of the manual kiln, and the ease of repair.. I used this kiln more than my Skutt over the past two years and have found it to be very reliable. (Not that my skutt isn't, but you get the point.) It's been a project kiln from the start, and getting it working and firing it and all of that has been ejoyable.