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I need kiln advice! Calling all experts!


Jennie N

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I recently got into throwing and have been making stuff in a local studio and at home. I feel comfortable and confident enough on the wheel to start doing things more on my own and in my own home studio. Costs for firing at the studio are starting to add up and it would just be so much easier to do everything at home rather than transporting pieces back and forth. I have done quite a bit of kiln research but I still feel like I know nothing and I find it a lot easier to learn the details from experienced artists. A family friend has an old kiln and as I expressed my interest in possibly buying it from her, she gave me the model and details, but I need more help figuring out if it is a good investment. And if it is, how much should I offer? Will it work for bisque and glaze firing? If this isn't a good fit, do you have any other first kiln suggestions? I have so many questions and need answers! The model is an Evenheat DTP-56DC-E. Thanks to anybody who can help :)

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Hi Jennie!

Looks like DTP-56DC-E is the controller model.

See image attached to first post, here: Programing Evenheat Perfect Fire For Bisque - Equipment Use and Repair - Ceramic Arts Daily Community

The kiln is equipped with a "Perfect Fire" controller by Canadian Instrumentation (or something like).

The condition, size, and firing range of the kiln would likely be key factors for you to consider, also features, power requirements, pricing...

Look for an EvenHeat info thing - model number, voltage, phase, etc., like this:

EvenHeat.JPG.83c72208bae09dcf9cd55dffbb9f3206.JPG

What type of work are you interested in doing? Low fire, "mid" fire (cone 5/6)? How big? 
What space do you have available? Do you own the space, is it isolated from living/working area, is there adequate power available ...there's more questions.

Ahem, to start, what specific kiln model and specifications, pictures would be great, outside, closeup of the info thing, and good pics of the inside as well.

 

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The DTP-56 controller was a very early digital kiln controller. It only has one ramp speed and set point, so not at all ideal. A good firing happens in several different ramps, not just one. You really want a kiln that can do several ramps. The good news is that there's a really good chance that the kiln has all the parts necessary to swap out the controller for a new one that would be much more functional. However we really need to know the correct model number and the condition of the bricks to make an accurate judgment on the value of the kiln. Can you post pics of the interior and exterior of the kiln?

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Also, to answer some of your questions... I mostly work with low fire clays and glazes (as of right now) so I would be fine with a low-fire kiln. (I think... unless you would suggest otherwise). I'm no expert but I have heard mid-high fire helps make more functional pottery, less porous? I do have a garage space at my home that I was intending on setting up the kiln in. I did read that I would need an individual electrical breaker if I were to use a kiln at home, which is something I would be able to get done if need be. Sorry if I sound like a newb, I am fairly new to the ceramics world so don't be afraid to keep throwing info at me. Thanks!

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Hi Jennie,

Kiln itself looks like the bricks are in decent shape, which is a big plus for it. I had one of those early Perfect Fire controllers when they first came out, not really a huge fan of it. I could only see one image, that of the inside of the kiln, the controller and a couple printed pages I can't make out. Try emailing the photos to yourself to resize them then try posting them.

13 hours ago, Jennie N said:

I mostly work with low fire clays and glazes (as of right now) so I would be fine with a low-fire kiln. (I think... unless you would suggest otherwise). I'm no expert but I have heard mid-high fire helps make more functional pottery, less porous?

For functional ware it's a fair bit easier to work at midrange temps, in the cone 6 range, than lowfire. Lowfire clays typically have fairly high absorption rates which means the glazes have to fit the pots really well, with no crazing, and ideally the glaze should cover the entire surface of the pot which means firing on stilts. By choosing a midrange claybody with less than 2% absorption you don't have the porosity/absorption issue. This means the pots shouldn't weep, take up water from use (and cause glaze crazing) or get excessively hot in the microwave. There are pluses and minuses to both low and midfire.

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