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"Geometric" Crackle / Crawl Glaze


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Hi All -- I am looking for a (cone 6, oxidation) crackle / crawl glaze that gives nice, bold geometric patterns with a lot of contrast -- white on black or maybe vice versa (so I am really looking for two glazes or maybe a glaze and a slip).  Here are some examples of what I'm talking about:

690934068_Screenshotfrom2021-06-0313-22-56.resized.png.31f0321b51e4722865482495817e4d3e.png       1220820938_Screenshotfrom2021-06-0313-21-31.png.93dbf6cfe096a8538e7ac26c0c06c848.png

(I suspect these two are very different in terms of what's going on, with the first being more of a "crawl," and the second more of a "crackle"...  But the usual "crawl" glaze tends to be more rounded and circular, and I like the more geometric, rectangular pattern of this example.)  Any suggestions on where to start would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

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If the crawl glaze is high in fluxes it will be more like a Brain Crawl or Beady Eyes crawl, less fluxes and you'll get more of the chiclet / dried mud effect. Along the lines of 25-30 magnesium carb, 60 nepheline syenite and 15 ball clay. If it's not melted enough add some flux. The ball clay helps it stay on the pot when dry but it will still want to flake off, nature of crawl glazes. Add zirocopax if you want it whiter. Looks like that first image could be black underglaze or slip fired on then the crawl glaze, second image looks like naked raku.

Other option for a similar look is to use sodium silicate (with or without slip) on the outside of a freshly thrown pot then stretch it out. One thread here about it.

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Everything will alter the crackle/crawl glazes.  Dipping, brushing, pouring, applying with a baster.  Thickness of glaze is critical.   

Thickness, cone  firing of bisque, cleanliness of bisque.

My opinion is they are cool if you can accept inconsistency in final results.  The best will be really good and the worst will not even be acceptable by my loose standards.  You should see some separation as soon as the glaze is dry, but too much and the firing may cause the platelets to separate from the pot.  Stalactites are no good.

I have used a lot of Coleman's shino crawl and currently using more Hopper reticulated.  Like Min says one is well fluxed and the other is not. 

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