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Hi all, 

first time posting. 


I recently aquired and olympic 1818HE with a Bartlett rtc1000 controller on it. I know the controller is made more for glass or heat treating kilns but have seen it used for ceramics without problem. 

I had a few error codes in my first two firings, the first was e3 during my final hold at cone 04. The code chart states that the temp fell 50* below final hold temp during the hold and the chart says that’s a relay failure. I did a full power test at r9999 to f1000 and all of the elements glowed a beautiful red. 


I assumed that because the kiln lives in a metal shed outside that because of a cold front that blew in that night and a peep hole being open, it was a fluke. So I loaded a glaze round and set a hold for two hours at 200 to ensure my glaze was dry before going to cone 05. The kiln then threw error code e1 saying the ramp speed was less than 12* per hour.  I believe based on the amount of time between check ins, that the kiln didn’t make it above 300*

I did another full power test tonight and the elements all looked great. But when the temp got to ~300* the elements all shut off and the temperature started changing between 230-310 and in between rather rapidly. The elements never turned back on but the kiln wasn’t off. 

Im thinking this is all a thermocouple issue but could use some advice. 

Edited by Gwyndarlin
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19 hours ago, Gwyndarlin said:

Mine has a cap on it I think?

Whoops, Olympic not paragon. Post a picture and we likely can identify and suggest a video. Depending on the age of the kiln you may have an old iconel or metal thermocouple which has been replaced by the one pictured above. Replacement is pretty simple and universal but if yours is being converted then drilling the hole slightly larger may be required. Definitely post a picture here of your current thermocouple.

Edited by Bill Kielb
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Like Bill said you may have a metal sheathed thermocouple, which are impossible to visually tell if they're worn out. Based on  what's happening, either the thermocouple is worn out, or one of the connections is loose, either in the block that holds it, or one of the thermocouple wire connections. You should be able to get a new thermocouple of the same type unless Olympic no longer carries them. The open type thermocouple that Bill posted a picture of tend to be less expensive, but they are also more prone to shedding bits into the kiln.

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