Mark C. Posted February 15, 2021 Report Share Posted February 15, 2021 What is that Kopr-Shield stuff exactly? Its a conductive copper paste that electricians use-it really costly-about 85$ a can. it keeps corosion out and conducts current so application is a careful process. Pm me with name and mailing address and I will mail you a dab as it goes a long ways apply with toothpick or qtip after your brush brass terminals or any connection clean. I just bought those brass connections and will from now on use them over any crimps -i'll put a dab of copper coat inside as well.it can take heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted February 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2021 What size brass connectors would be recommended for the 231-18 kiln? I see that Euclid offers a couple different sizes. I'll likely end up using these connectors, since like Neil said, if something similar goes wrong again, I wouldn't necessarily have to replace the now *brand new* elements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted February 15, 2021 Report Share Posted February 15, 2021 I use these single screw ones. Have used them on test kilns up to 10 cubic foot kilns for about 15 years now. https://euclids.com/collections/connectors-lead-outs/products/element-connector-1-screw-hd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted February 16, 2021 Report Share Posted February 16, 2021 1 hour ago, Min said: I use these single screw ones. Have used them on test kilns up to 10 cubic foot kilns for about 15 years now. https://euclids.com/collections/connectors-lead-outs/products/element-connector-1-screw-hd I bought a bunch of that size -you may have to fold the feeder wire back on itself to make it larger depending on space left (thats what you do on the crimp conectors as well) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted March 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 So, I just can't get get those brass connectors ordered from Euclid. My card apparently doesn't like the fact that the company is in Canada. Is there anywhere else to get those brass connectors, or would the stainless ones work as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted March 14, 2021 Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 1 hour ago, Benzine said: So, I just can't get get those brass connectors ordered from Euclid. My card apparently doesn't like the fact that the company is in Canada. Is there anywhere else to get those brass connectors, or would the stainless ones work as well? Stainless will work. All the connectors on L&L kilns are stainless and they hold up well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted March 14, 2021 Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 2 hours ago, Benzine said: Is there anywhere else to get those brass connectors, or would the stainless ones work as well? Lots on the web, google kiln element connectors, mechanical butt splices, etc...... https://psh.ca/collections/connectors-lead-outs https://www.soundingstone.com/products/copper-kiln-element-connector https://duralite.com/shop/wiring-solutions/terminals-connectors/butt-splice-connector-heavy-duty/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted March 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 @neilestrick @Bill Kielb Thanks Gents! Neil, with the stainless connectors below, do both the element and feeder ends go in between the end of the screw and that thin piece of metal, or below said piece? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted March 14, 2021 Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 @BenzineBelow the metal plate. The plate makes for a larger surface area pushing on the wires, and to prevent the bolt from potentially breaking the wire as it twists. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted March 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2021 3 hours ago, neilestrick said: @BenzineBelow the metal plate. The plate makes for a larger surface area pushing on the wires, and to prevent the bolt from potentially breaking the wire as it twists. Say, you seem to know your stuff. Have you worked on kilns a time or two before...Hehe. Should the element and feeder wire be touching, not touching, overlapping? Also, they have a small connector and a large connector. Which would you suggest? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted March 15, 2021 Report Share Posted March 15, 2021 They overlap. Element from one side, wire from the other. Small works for most kilns, but are snug for two wires and an element on parallel wiring. I'd get half and half in that case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted August 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2021 So I finally had some time to replace the elements, some bricks and other parts on this kiln. My colleague, who uses the kiln came in to help and learn the process. As we were removing the elements and control boxes, we found more damage, from then the wires arced. One spot was on the connection socket between the sections, and part of that actually melted. Then the stainless steel baffle?, that the control box is attached to, also had a hole melted through. We also discovered the kiln sitter had damage and a glob of some melted material. Luckily that glob wasn't on the bar, that would have stopped it from dropping, but it will get replaced anyway. Luckily I have the same kiln at home, that was given to me. I want to eventually convert it to salt or soda, so I've been scavenging parts from that. Good times! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted August 10, 2021 Report Share Posted August 10, 2021 3 minutes ago, Benzine said: One spot was on the connection socket between the sections, and part of that actually melted. The interbox plugs are a notorious weak spot in the system. They wear out and overheat, or the outer metal jacket sags and the plugs don't make a good connection any more and they arc and melt out. Skutt makes an upgrade kit to convert it to a hardwired system with hinged control boxes that's easy to install and worth the money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted August 10, 2021 Report Share Posted August 10, 2021 On 3/13/2021 at 8:04 PM, Benzine said: So, I just can't get get those brass connectors ordered from Euclid. My card apparently doesn't like the fact that the company is in Canada. Is there anywhere else to get those brass connectors, or would the stainless ones work as well? I had zero issues-call your card Company Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick White Posted August 10, 2021 Report Share Posted August 10, 2021 On 3/13/2021 at 11:04 PM, Benzine said: So, I just can't get get those brass connectors ordered from Euclid. My card apparently doesn't like the fact that the company is in Canada. Is there anywhere else to get those brass connectors, or would the stainless ones work as well? The Ceramic Shop has them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted October 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2021 So myself and my coworker got the new elements in, along with some new bricks. We made the connections with the feeder wires in the bottom section, but before doing the top we thought we'd see if the bottom would even work. The answer was, nope. We saw sparks from the box, and the breaker tripped like before. The only hint of something arcing was on one of the porcelain insulators. Any suggestions for how to proceed? I can't figure out what arced exactly. Is the feeder wire supposed to be folded over to better fill the connector, or am I thinking of something else? There wasn't anything wrong with only have one section wire up, when turning the kiln on right? That would be no different than having one switch turned on correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted October 18, 2021 Report Share Posted October 18, 2021 If you are using skutt crimps the wire is folded over to fill the crimp. Is the element toucking any spot of the outer jacket? a photo of the arc area would help Hopefully you took photos before cutting wires loose and the reassembly is the same? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted October 18, 2021 Report Share Posted October 18, 2021 1 hour ago, Benzine said: Any suggestions for how to proceed? I Pictures, pictures, pictures, if you are not seeing it someone will……… with pictures Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted October 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2021 22 hours ago, Mark C. said: If you are using skutt crimps the wire is folded over to fill the crimp. Is the element toucking any spot of the outer jacket? a photo of the arc area would help Hopefully you took photos before cutting wires loose and the reassembly is the same? I labeled everything, as to which wire connects where. I *think* I got everything back right... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted October 19, 2021 Report Share Posted October 19, 2021 35 minutes ago, Benzine said: I labeled everything, as to which wire connects where. I *think* I got everything back right... If there are sparks, one of the wires is touching something metal. Or you've got it wired wrong. But more likely something is touching. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.