teardrop Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 When I took classes at the local college the most widely used clay was B-Mix. (cone 10 Laguna). The instructor acted as if it was the be-all/end-all.... (but she was a dumb *****...so hey...there ya go) I've since figured out, from reading here.....that firing at ^6.... this probably wasn't the best clay to be using. My guess is it was what SHE wanted to use....and nothing more. Since breaking free and going out on my own/making my own mistakes (LOL).....I have been using a ^6 clay called "Kodiak" from Mile High Ceramics..... I thought the B- Mix was great at the time........but since I've been using this redder/Kodiak I have found out just what a pain in the butt it really was. With the B-mix in this dry climate...if you don't cover it and baby it...handles crack in place....feet fall off.... all sorts of fun things seem to happen. Covered....it takes a good week to dry things out..... With this Kodiak....you simply make the item and let it sit on the cabinet in the open air.....and in a few days it is dry...no cracks...no BS! Talk about thrilled.... I was scared to try it but when the first piece fly through the drying process with no cracking whatsoever I made a pitcher and tried that...and it also dried perfectly. So WHY is this? What makes the Kodiak dry with more consistency while the B-Mix cracks and pulls and has all sorts of problems? (and why do so many use it?) So much for covering that rack in plastic to slow the drying.........and...um.....GOODBYE B-Mix! I'm having so much fun..... and the first market less than a month away......yikes.... be well teardrop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJR Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Teardrop; This is one of the classic questions in ceramics..WHY? The B-mix mix you are referring to probably has more ball clay in it than the Kodiak. Ball clay adds plasticity to a clay body for throwing but also increases the shrinkage rate. Hence cracking of handles. Most clay bodies are just that -a body, a combination of 4-6 different clays combined to give certain qualities, like plasticity, colour, temperature, texture, etc. I am not familiar with the Kodiak clay, but if you like it stick with it. I use a white clay from Laguna in California called Danish White.It is a Cone 10 stoneware body. Sometimes if I am making bakers I will get Danish White with Sand. You should try a variety of clays, but if there is one you really like, I would stick with it. I don't know why your teacher had you using a Cone 10 clay at Cone 6. There are lots of good mid range clays out there. That's the beauty of clay. There is a whole world of stuff to try. TJR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Teardrop B-mix has always been a very uneven drying body Clay is formulated for many different uses The most forgiving and strange body I know is Lagunas WSO you can do anything with that but when fired it seems more like cement than a clay body. My porcelain dries super fast and even (Daves Porcelain from Laguna) As TRJ said clays are a mix of ingredients-you will over time learn that more than one body is needed for different uses We slab baking ware from a body called 1/2 nad 1/2 Throw most items from Daves Porc and throw large items from B-mix (very little of this) Giant slab items are WSO for us. Salt firing clays are a whole other story as well I use about 6 various stoneware bodes for salting. Every clay body has plus or minus factors Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teardrop Posted June 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 FWIW now.....I think the clay situation at school was a combo of our instructor being focused on the gas kiln/cone 10 and a lack of care in keeping the studio stocked of anything other than what she wanted to use. 'nuff said. http://www.milehiceramics.com/clay-stoneware.html I was targeting the "Hickory" on this page but it wasn't available @ the time so went with their rec of the Kodiak. I will definitely try other clays....but I was certainly happy when I saw how well (in my nooby opinion) the Kodiak worked. It was definitely a gamble to buy a few hundred pounds of of it without trying it out previously....but noob luck and their experience worked out in my favor. thanks for the insight folks teardrop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdog Posted June 9, 2012 Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 FWIW now.....I think the clay situation at school was a combo of our instructor being focused on the gas kiln/cone 10 and a lack of care in keeping the studio stocked of anything other than what she wanted to use. 'nuff said. http://www.milehiceramics.com/clay-stoneware.html I was targeting the "Hickory" on this page but it wasn't available @ the time so went with their rec of the Kodiak. I will definitely try other clays....but I was certainly happy when I saw how well (in my nooby opinion) the Kodiak worked. It was definitely a gamble to buy a few hundred pounds of of it without trying it out previously....but noob luck and their experience worked out in my favor. thanks for the insight folks teardrop I went threw 500# of both. I wish the grog were a bit smaller but I attribute the even dry to the grog An I find when pugging adding a little venager does wonders too. Good clay good shop too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diana Ferreira Posted June 12, 2012 Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 Teardrop, I slipcast a black clay body. It stays wet for ever. If I leave it in the mold, it will be wet and soft for up to 3 days (weather depending). I (out of frustration) started to use my hairdryer on a cool setting to dry ware inside a mold so I could release it quicker. One day I forgot to change the setting after I used it to dry my hair. And WOW. It stiffend up enough in the mold, without warping or cracking. So, now I use it at full heat, no probs. (I do the heating/drying thing on a banding wheel, with the wheel spinning). Tried it once with porcelain - major immediate cracks. Go figure :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Oz Posted June 12, 2012 Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 Teardrop, I slipcast a black clay body. It stays wet for ever. If I leave it in the mold, it will be wet and soft for up to 3 days (weather depending). I (out of frustration) started to use my hairdryer on a cool setting to dry ware inside a mold so I could release it quicker. One day I forgot to change the setting after I used it to dry my hair. And WOW. It stiffend up enough in the mold, without warping or cracking. So, now I use it at full heat, no probs. (I do the heating/drying thing on a banding wheel, with the wheel spinning). Tried it once with porcelain - major immediate cracks. Go figure :-) hair driers are pretty usefu,l mine is plugged in 24/7 set on high, some people even use heat guns. I used to make candle covers with a lot of cut outs, I would heat it with the drier so it would be stiff enough to hold up on it's own, then I could remove it from the form I built it on. The only time I find a covered cabinet useful, is with some of my mufti sectional slab work. Even then I have a loose flap on the front and small holes on the top so they don’t dry too slow. It's nice to have a clay that can stand some abuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdog Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 Teardrop, I slipcast a black clay body. It stays wet for ever. If I leave it in the mold, it will be wet and soft for up to 3 days (weather depending). I (out of frustration) started to use my hairdryer on a cool setting to dry ware inside a mold so I could release it quicker. One day I forgot to change the setting after I used it to dry my hair. And WOW. It stiffend up enough in the mold, without warping or cracking. So, now I use it at full heat, no probs. (I do the heating/drying thing on a banding wheel, with the wheel spinning). Tried it once with porcelain - major immediate cracks. Go figure :-) hair driers are pretty usefu,l mine is plugged in 24/7 set on high, some people even use heat guns. I used to make candle covers with a lot of cut outs, I would heat it with the drier so it would be stiff enough to hold up on it's own, then I could remove it from the form I built it on. The only time I find a covered cabinet useful, is with some of my mufti sectional slab work. Even then I have a loose flap on the front and small holes on the top so they don’t dry too slow. It's nice to have a clay that can stand some abuse. I guess it's why some stick with only one type of clay I use a heat gun on full to med For stoneware But the clay I dig I dry over a week slow. I put my pieces in a ice chest as soon as I can move them.....heat gun comes no ware near them. My stone I put on a shelf and it dries in three days. I tend to let the clay dictate its speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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