Babs Posted December 28, 2020 Report Share Posted December 28, 2020 On 12/28/2020 at 3:23 AM, LeeAnets said: The slabs were wrapped in plastic and attached probably within 2 hours of making them. I worked on the main piece (walls and base) then added the main attachments next. I seriously doubt they were leather hard by that time, being wrapped tightly in plastic. Maybe my scoring is so visible because I am too aggressive with scoring?? To gentle on attaching. Scoring should disappear on joining pieces together. akilspots 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CactusPots Posted December 29, 2020 Report Share Posted December 29, 2020 I've had this problem a lot, as it's just part of my work. I think what's happening is that the outside clay layers dry and trap moisture in the slip layer. A good solid connection is the first part as everyone notes. An extended time in plastic bags equalizes the moisture between the layers. A slow dry to basic dry and and then extended dry to get the internal moisture. Easy for me in the summer time, not so much now. The bisque cycle should be slow to 200 with a soak before moving on. Even if the bisque is perfect the attachment can peel up on the edge sometimes. I think it's just part of the process to have some failures. My stuff has gotten much better in this regard with time and practice. This problem is the number one contributor to my shard pile. Also, I never liked Rod's Bod. Much prefer Soldate or S 60 LeeAnets 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted December 29, 2020 Report Share Posted December 29, 2020 I recall Rods Bod is a throwing body first -mabe a different body would work better for you as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pres Posted December 29, 2020 Report Share Posted December 29, 2020 Sorry to disagree with you @Babs, but it is my opinion that you are mixing apples and oranges. It is true that air pockets in the wall of a pot do not cause the pot to blow up, but that it is moisture in the pot that turns to steam. However, when it comes to two layers of clay joined together expanding air with not escape route can put pressure on a layered join causing the two pieces to separate. best, Pres Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babs Posted December 29, 2020 Report Share Posted December 29, 2020 1 hour ago, Pres said: Sorry to disagree with you @Babs, but it is my opinion that you are mixing apples and oranges. It is true that air pockets in the wall of a pot do not cause the pot to blow up, but that it is moisture in the pot that turns to steam. However, when it comes to two layers of clay joined together expanding air with not escape route can put pressure on a layered join causing the two pieces to separate. best, Pres My logic is opinion only too Pres. My logic goes with the escape route for the air still exists and with careful drying, and acceptable rate of firing "should" allow air to escape through the usual pathways. But if the process is sorted as so many have written about, should go ok. Dont know how you'd test for this one..... Chilly 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted January 2, 2021 Report Share Posted January 2, 2021 small suggestion. if you have rolled out the slab of clay to make your form, add the pieces to the slab while it is still flat on the table surface. folding the slab around your internal form maker will allow the whole thing to be a more consistent construction. much easier to add pieces when it is flat than working on a standing cube. Babs and LeeAnets 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sorcery Posted January 2, 2021 Report Share Posted January 2, 2021 On 12/29/2020 at 3:49 PM, Babs said: with the escape route for the air still exists and with careful drying, and acceptable rate of firing "should" allow air to escape through the usual pathways. Yes, the air can still escape, but it has already caused the piece to not attach properly. Then with just the edges attached, normal shrink makes it pop. Sorce Babs 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeAnets Posted June 30, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2022 On 12/26/2020 at 6:42 PM, Hulk said: Will you post back with more pics of your cool sculptures? Hello @Hulk and everyone else that helped me through this disaster! I am happy to say I made it to the other side and am now having success in my sculptures! WooHoo! Here are a few pictures and what I learned! (Thank you, @Hulk, for your encouraging words and warm welcome. That alone meant a lot to me.) 1.) @CactusPots A SLOW bisque firing is ***KEY!!*** Especially when pieces are more than 12 inches tall. Sometimes I even preheat for an hour in addition to slow bisque firing now. Out of all my research and feedback, I believe this is the most important part of the solution. I even talked with a tach at Skutt about it. Thank you, @CactusPots!! 2.) @Min Using "jiggling pressure" when applying attachments also has made a difference! 3.) @Pres I now use slip made with Magic Water (Magic Water + Clay Body) when attaching elements on my sculptures. This works best FOR ME since I didn't like the "feel" of Magic Water alone. (Also, @Pres, I have tried pinholes inside the vessels when I remember, but since this hasn't been a consistent strategy for me, I am not sure how much it has helped.) 4.) @Sorcery @Babs I do believe it was possible that air pockets (where moisture could travel to, make steam, and explode) were responsible, especially with a quick bisque fire like my original post showed. ***I've incorporated bending by attachments as I put them on which makes first contact in the center and then I push out pockets of air to the edges. These air pockets act like vugs in rock formations; they make the perfect place for water to pool, steam and do crazy things!! 5.) @oldlady When I can, I lay my slab on the table and add attatchments before building it vertically. What I am making doesn't always allow for that, so if I can't do it that way, I make sure I am building on a wooden form or place lots of "back pressure" inside the pot while attaching on the outside. So…BRAVO and MUCHO GRACIAS to all of you for helping find SUCCESS!!! Here are NEW sculptures... Callie Beller Diesel, Magnolia Mud Research and Hulk 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted June 30, 2022 Report Share Posted June 30, 2022 VERY NICE! such a difference with color! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pres Posted June 30, 2022 Report Share Posted June 30, 2022 @LeeAnets Things are looking really great! When I use magic water, I have one container for the white clay, and one for the hazelnut clay. Reason being that as I use the magic water it becomes slip like. You have taken first steps here, and I hope you continue to challenge yourself and your ideas. Best of luck, with clay it is the journey, not necessarily the end result. best, Pres Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babs Posted July 1, 2022 Report Share Posted July 1, 2022 Well done you!!!! Moisture versus or with airpockets... Moisture will blow everytime ! Folk make totally sealed pots.....totally dry no probs. Wet clay, a grenade. But if it works don't change it. Beautiful pots Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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