Kate jenkins Posted November 24, 2020 Report Share Posted November 24, 2020 What causes of a glaze settling too quickly after sitting for a month an how can I deflocculate it It is a standard glaze with feldspar; kaolin; silica and dolomite with small amounts of iron for and zirconium Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Callie Beller Diesel Posted November 24, 2020 Report Share Posted November 24, 2020 Most glazes will settle out somehow if left for a month. It’s just a function of minerals that are ultimately heavier than water settling out of suspension. Hard panning is a result of some minerals being heavier than others, and various ionic charges working on certain particle shapes to really suction themselves to each other. You don’t want to deflocculate a glaze that hard pans, you want to flocculate it so it stays suspended when it’s mixed. It will still settle, it just won’t get all rock hard. If the glaze has 10% kaolin or more, you can make a saturated epsom salt solution and add a teaspoon or two at a time to a 5 gallon bucket. Be sure to stir thoroughly for a few minutes before adding more. You can overdo it quickly. If you’ve added too much, you may find the glaze takes too long to dry after dipping, or you might gel it if it gets way too far. If the glaze has less than 10% clay, it may need to have 2% bentonite added so that the Epsom salts will work to keep it suspended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julie T Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 I also have a newer glaze that is MSD-60 Walnut Spice. I bought it dry, like I always do and noticed that is was settling fast after the first mixing and glazing. I had a partial pint of (clear liquid that helps glaze not crawl) I cannot remember the name at the moment. So, I added some and feel like I may have introduced bacteria because now it settled to a nearly hard consistency. Will Epsom salts work for this issue too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 28 minutes ago, Julie T said: clear liquid that helps glaze not crawl What is that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 Clay suspends very well. Almost everything else in a glaze wants to settle hard. So if there's enough clay (typically kaolin), everything will stick to it and it'll stay suspended. At least 10% clay is needed for that to work. For glazes that have less clay, we usually add 2% bentonite to the glaze. Bentonite is like super clay when it comes to staying suspended. 2% will help a lot but it's not enough to have an effect on the recipe. To further help, we flocculate the glaze with Epsom salts, which makes the particles stick together better so the clay can keep everything suspended. You can eyeball the Epsom salts, but generally no more than 1/2 of 1% by dry weight is necessary. Mix it with water and add/stir until you see the glaze start to thicken a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 1 hour ago, liambesaw said: What is that? Yeah, never heard of that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 2 hours ago, liambesaw said: What is that? I think I saw it on Amazon, Maybe floetrol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 27 minutes ago, Bill Kielb said: I think I saw it on Amazon, Maybe floetrol Heh, I was thinking it's probably cmc gum solution Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted December 2, 2020 Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 1 hour ago, Bill Kielb said: I think I saw it on Amazon, Maybe floetrol I love Floetrol! But not in my glazes. Although I've never tried it in a glaze. Maybe it's amazing! It does wonders for paint, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hulk Posted December 2, 2020 Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 Big yep on Floetrol, and Emulsa Bond (also by Flood) - used many gallons of both (in the 80s). The prior conditions water borne coatings to flow better, dry a bit slower, lay down (smooth) better, and spray much better; the latter improves adherence of water borne coatings. T1-11 siding, which was popular then, splits and peels - we used solid/opaque stain with the EB added, which really helps to keep the wood fibers together (better to use a "real" siding product, imo). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted December 4, 2020 Report Share Posted December 4, 2020 On 12/1/2020 at 9:12 PM, Hulk said: T1-11 siding, which was popular then, splits and peels Ahh yes, very popular in 70’s and 80’s.rough sawn very popular also. OSB worse than plywood. Prestain / seal all edges, z bar the top keep that water out. paint / stain every 3 years lasts a long time. If it touches the ground anywhere, forget it. The good old days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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