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Help with kiln not working


Jamesmdx1
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8 minutes ago, Bill Kielb said:

I have seen folks just move the line to the load screws and double up or install jumpers keeping the sitter as a terminal block. An ok idea when neatly done. Providing something else will turn off the kiln faithfully..

That would definitely work. I hadn't though of jumpers, so you don't have to rely on the sitter contact plate mechanism at all. I've always just pulled the sitter out completely and put in a small terminal block, so that's what was in my head. Once you remove the sitter tube there's a lot more space in there to work.

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I removed the sitter tube and installed the thermocouple in place and the protection tube over top. I fit in well with the protection tube. I then moved the power input from one side of the sitter contact plate to the other side. All the switches and wiring from original stay in place. If I have to I can replace the sitter and rewire in about 10 min and be back to the stock setup.  The wall controller stays cool and does not get to a dangerous  temperature, I did add a fan to mine to cool it even further but does not require it to operate. The cooler you keep electronics the better it is on them.

I built mine with a Genesis controller, contactor and solid state relay. I also have a separate power system for a vent fan that gets controller by the controller. The vent fan uses the cord from a float switch so it just plugs into the wall and the vent fan pugs into that.

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Ok, so I contacted artisan, they make the 2 in 1 timer.   They have it but it is 190.00... 

so my thought is to go with upgrading to the Olympic electro sitter, which goes in place of the kiln sitter .. but that would be only if the timer isn’t needed ... so basically the electrositter bypasses all the original controls ..relay etc?

if I’m going to do this i need to make sure 

 

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1 hour ago, Jamesmdx1 said:

so my thought is to go with upgrading to the Olympic electro sitter, which goes in place of the kiln sitter .. but that would be only if the timer isn’t needed ... so basically the electrositter bypasses all the original controls ..relay etc?

The Electrositter can bypass all the controls if you wire it up that way. You'll have to connect the elements directly to the back of the Electrositter, which means either splicing or replacing existing wires. Replacing would be preferable to splicing, but if you've got crimp connectors on the elements that won't be an easy option.

The way they say to do it- just moving the wires from the old manual sitter to the new Electrositter- assumes that all the switches and relays in the old system are functional, because you set the kiln on high and the digital controller cycles the whole kiln on and off to control rate of climb.

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1 hour ago, Jamesmdx1 said:

Neil
did you have a chance to look at the pics I sent you ?

thanks 

Finally got to them. Sorry for the delay. I would hook up the Electrositter (ES) and completely bypass all the switches and relays so you don't have to worry about them frying out in the future. So you'll just hook the power cord into the bottom two terminals on the ES just like they are on the old sitter. The top two terminals on the ES will each get one wire from each element set, so two wires on each terminal. Piece of cake. The wires coming off the elements are probably not long enough and don't have the correct ring terminals on the ends, so you can splice them with the wires that come off the old sitter and have the ring terminals. Everything else can stay in there, but remove any wires that are no longer connected at one end so they're not loose in there, or of you have no intention of ever going back to the manual setup just gut the box. If you have the money, the Genesis controller is worth the extra cost. Otherwise get the V6-CF.

 

Wiring.jpg

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If I remember correctly I think for the first 2 hours the timer cycled every 60 sec and I think only the bottom 4 element came on and then after the 2 hours all 8 were on high .. would this do anything like that .. not sure since all the elements would be connected together so I would think they would all come on at the same time 

thanks 

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Yes it will act like a normal single zone kiln and the controller will turn the elements on to maintain a nice even heating rate. I am not aware of anyone that still designs with the whacky two hour timer method. An automated control would be a huge improvement from  the way this kiln was originally designed.

My guess is if I offered to fix your car but you will have manual brakes and no power steering when I was done, you would decline.

Edited by Bill Kielb
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