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55 minutes ago, Alexia Merces Vidal said:

How do i do this effect in which there is no glaze in the lines between the spaces?

 

should i not glaze those parts?

or do they get that worn-out look on their own?

The effect is called "breaking"; the glaze melt has a high surface tension and moves away from sharp edges.  

To find out if the glaze will "break" on your work you need to do some testing by just trying the glaze. 
For glazes that do not normally "break",  wiping the edges gently with a wet sponge to remove some - but NOT ALL - of the glaze will produce something resembling "breaking" but not as strong. 

Application thickness also is important; very thick application can overcome the "breaking" effect. 

Test, adjust, Test, ... 

LT

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22 hours ago, Callie Beller Diesel said:

I have a white glaze that’s opacified with zircopax and titanium that breaks just fine. I’m gonna say the base glaze is probably more critical than the opacifier.

I'd agree but in a glaze like Folk Art Guild White, the glaze does not break with zircopax, it requires tin at least in part.  Same with "cream breaking rust" glaze.

So at least in some glazes the opacifier is crucial.

I have tried to save money on tin on every tin glaze I have by substitution, just out of necessity since tin is now extremely expensive.

Edited by liambesaw
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